Petcock, carb or something else!?!? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 03-25-2014, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Petcock, carb or something else!?!?

First issue; bike dies on freeway going about 60mph. Everything looked ok. Started fine after few minutes. Three days later, identical issue. After some reading on forums, I thought it's petcock. Drained tank, inspected petcock - all looked fine. Installed inline fuel filter and bike was fine for about 10 days.
Second issue; similar symptoms. Died on me as I was slowing down for red light. Couldn't start it. Towed it to shop and told them what happen before. Mechanic said it's most likely carb. They took it off, inspect it - looked fine. After running it through ultrasonic cleaner, they put it back and installed jet kit thinking it will solve the issue. Took it for test ride, bike died after 3 blocks - same symptoms. After checking everything else, I asked them to look into petcock. When they inspected petcock, vacuum and everything was good, but when they bypass it and supply fuel from exterior tank - bike is running fine.
They told me they'll bypass petcock until I get replacement, but when I left the shop bike died again. Not sure if they really bypassed it!? After leaving it for 20min and playing with petcock, I started it with petcock in off and rode it back to my friends place for 10 miles on reserve.
Anyway, is the issue petcock!? I really hope so, but I'm skeptical cos stock one looked fine when they tested it. Suggestions?
What aftermarket petcock you guys recommend; eagle mike, pingel or something third!? Eagle Mike is the cheapest and probably one I can get fastest.
I'm anxious to get back on the road down to Mexico, been stuck is Southern California for almost a week because of this.
Was gonna ride down to San Diego tomorrow and pick up petcock directly from eagle mike without waiting for delivery, but not sure if bike will make these 100 miles. Any suggestions for temporary fix other that "bypassing"!?

Last edited by Renimus; 03-26-2014 at 12:04 AM. Reason: Adding info
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post #2 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 12:15 AM
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Next time it happens remove the gas cap and see if it will start
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post #3 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 12:17 AM
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EM petcock is the way to go. Is from a Yamaha660 Raptor of about 2006 vintage (pre injection) if memory serves. Minor hose finagaling to install. Slightly less reserve due to shorter tube. EMs price is better than Yamaha's.

Something else to look at.....open the fuel tank cap next time the bike dies. If there is a woosh(air entering the tank) the tank vent may be plugged/blocked. Try riding with the cap cracked open and see if the bike dies. As the fuel flows out of the tank it is replaced with air through the tank vent. If air can't get in, the fuel eventually stops as the tank gets vacuum locked.

Never heard of a way of easily bypassing the stock fuel valve before. The vacuum actuated flow valve is in the petcock and is not easy to disable.
Regards....justjeff

What wiff said too!!

It's not a Tractor....It's a LOCOMOTIVE!! Chugga Chugga
Woooo WOOOOO!!!!!

Last edited by justjeff; 03-26-2014 at 12:21 AM.
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post #4 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 12:23 AM
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Being gravity flow the KLRs don't take well to inline fuel filters. When the fuel level gets lowish there isn't enough head pressure to overcome the natural restriction of the filter. I recommend ditching it.
jj

It's not a Tractor....It's a LOCOMOTIVE!! Chugga Chugga
Woooo WOOOOO!!!!!
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post #5 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 01:01 AM
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how is it for starting? is it hard to get it going?

Never ride faster than your angels can fly
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post #6 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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how is it for starting? is it hard to get it going?
Yes, it takes forever to start.

I'll try tank cap tomorrow. I think I'll ride to eagle mike first thing am which is bit over 100 miles, and test it on my way down. I'll install new petcock as soon as I get it.
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post #7 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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If the issue in fact is tank cap, how to fix it?
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post #8 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 02:02 AM
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There is a metal tube running from the bottom of the rear of the tank upwards to the flange where the cap seals. The passage continues through the cap then into the tank. At the rear/bottom of the tank a rubber hose continues down to terminate in front of the rear wheel on non California bikes.(on Calf bikes I think it goes to a canister but I am not familiar with them) This hose may be plugged, pinched closed or kinked, not allowing air into the tank. The metal tube through the tank is unlikely to be a problem. The passage through the cap has been known to get plugged occasionally and requires disassembly and cleaning. There are some very delicate parts in there which you CANNOT purchase separately from the cap. I believe there is a post on here showing the procedure but I can't find it right now.
As a test open the cap and blow in the end of the rubber hose. You should hear/feel air at the cap flange in the tank opening. DO NOT blow compressed air through/into the cap. You will destroy those non purchasable internal parts.

I lost the rubber hose a long time ago. It can't get damaged that way!!
Regards....justjeff

It's not a Tractor....It's a LOCOMOTIVE!! Chugga Chugga
Woooo WOOOOO!!!!!
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post #9 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justjeff View Post
There is a metal tube running from the bottom of the rear of the tank upwards to the flange where the cap seals. The passage continues through the cap then into the tank. At the rear/bottom of the tank a rubber hose continues down to terminate in front of the rear wheel on non California bikes.(on Calf bikes I think it goes to a canister but I am not familiar with them) This hose may be plugged, pinched closed or kinked, not allowing air into the tank. The metal tube through the tank is unlikely to be a problem. The passage through the cap has been known to get plugged occasionally and requires disassembly and cleaning. There are some very delicate parts in there which you CANNOT purchase separately from the cap. I believe there is a post on here showing the procedure but I can't find it right now.
As a test open the cap and blow in the end of the rubber hose. You should hear/feel air at the cap flange in the tank opening. DO NOT blow compressed air through/into the cap. You will destroy those non purchasable internal parts.

I lost the rubber hose a long time ago. It can't get damaged that way!!
Regards....justjeff
Thanks Jeff, I'll try this tomorrow.
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post #10 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 03:34 AM
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long shot but check your idle mixture screw.

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