Wiring accessories via fuze box vs. direct to battery - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-14-2014, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Question Wiring accessories via fuze box vs. direct to battery

Will connecting via a fuze box impair the effectiveness or efficiency of an accessory, as opposed to a direct-to-battery connection?

I am considering adding heated grips to my KLR. The very nice lady at Oxford customer support strongly recommends wiring the grip heaterz diretly to the battery. I already have a pigtail for my heated gear wired directly to my battery, based on the verry strong recommendation from Mike at Warm 'n Safe. I also have another connector direct-wired for a battery tender.

All of these "direct wires" are making a mess of the battery connections, so I am considering adding a relay-activated fuze box (or equivalent) to better organize things, and better protect against a dead battery if I inadvertantly leave an accessory power on when I turn off the bike.

Is there any particular reason to avoid such a fuze box? The folks at Oxford and at Warm 'n Safe could not make me understand why a direct connection was so strongly recommended, only that it was.

Will connecting via a fuze box impair the effectiveness or efficiency of the accessory?

"Chet from Chattanooga"
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post #2 of 9 Old 11-14-2014, 12:08 PM
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I have my grip heaters wired to a waterproof fuse block which is attached to the battery and the heaters work fine. Like you I would have the same issue with so many connections to the battery. You need to find a 2" long screw to attacher them all to the post, LOL.

Something like this:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wi...3_circuit.html

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post #3 of 9 Old 11-16-2014, 06:51 PM
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I have the oxford grips myself. I think and its just my guess, that they say go directly to the battery is to avoid user screw ups and make product support easier. Direct to battery they work great, KISS. If I had more power items I would get a fuse block.


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post #4 of 9 Old 11-17-2014, 01:47 PM
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I use a fuse block on almost all extra accessories.
Many fuse blocks have connections for ground as well as for power. While there are a few items that should be wired direct to your battery ( trickle chargers, heated clothing ) most other items can go through a fuse block and be more functional. This will help eliminate the cluster of extra wires on your posts.

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post #5 of 9 Old 01-05-2015, 07:55 PM
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So the Oxford heated grips should've wired directly to the battery? I had my dealer install them, they keyed it to start, I believe by using a lead to the headlights, and attached a relay. But I'm still having problems,s with them, at highway speeds the battery saving mode turns on and the grips stop functioning. Any suggestions?


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post #6 of 9 Old 01-05-2015, 07:56 PM
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I probably should've mentioned she is a 2009 klr, and the only attachment to the battery is a tender pigtail, no other electronics are wired in.


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post #7 of 9 Old 01-06-2015, 11:42 AM
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Since most of my work on bikes involves BMW and their CanBus I try to set up the wiring on all my bikes the same.
I run a PDM60 or a fuse block with a relay directly off the battery. I tap into the license plate lamp to trigger the relay. This provides a switched circuit so you do not run down the battery by leaving something on after the ignition is turned off.
The fuse block that I like is a Denali from Twisted Throttle. It has both switched and non switched circuits available as well as a ground circuit.

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post #8 of 9 Old 01-06-2015, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bach245 View Post
So the Oxford heated grips should've wired directly to the battery? I had my dealer install them, they keyed it to start, I believe by using a lead to the headlights, and attached a relay. But I'm still having problems,s with them, at highway speeds the battery saving mode turns on and the grips stop functioning. Any suggestions?


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Same here on my 2009 with myOxfords. I like having them on a relay-switched circuit, but they do click over to battery saver mode at the most curious times...like when running at 65 mph. I may try re-wiring direct to battery just to see what happens. I am at a loss as to why it should make any difference whatsoever. I have noted FWIW, that saver mode is not invoked if I run with the grips at less than the top two power settings. Maybe they just draw too much for our itty bitty supply.

"Chet from Chattanooga"
2009 KLR, blue

Last edited by clogan; 01-06-2015 at 05:47 PM.
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post #9 of 9 Old 01-07-2015, 01:46 PM
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I know about the power problems caused by the small battery on a KLR. To help with these problems I have replaced all lights with LEDs. In the future I will replace the battery with a Lithium-Ion battery but first the stock battery is going to have to fail.

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