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post #1 of 14 Old 01-25-2017, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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Short Bike

Anybody got a shortened side stand for a 2004 KLR650?

I'm thinking about going to 2" lowering links as the first step to making my KLR a street bike.
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post #2 of 14 Old 01-25-2017, 12:28 PM
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....I hope you're really light.....


Best bet on the sidestand is to cut and weld; experiment with shims under the wheels to you get the lean you're looking for but it'll be less than the lowering amount.


Dave
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post #3 of 14 Old 01-25-2017, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
....I hope you're really light.....


Best bet on the sidestand is to cut and weld; experiment with shims under the wheels to you get the lean you're looking for but it'll be less than the lowering amount.


Dave
I'm about 170 on a good day and good with wrenches but have no fabrication capability. So, was hoping some one else has tried this route and decided to go back to standard height leaving a shortened side stand that's unused.
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post #4 of 14 Old 01-25-2017, 12:48 PM
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gotcha. :-)

My point about weight was to point out (not very effectively, I admit) that lowering links change the effective springrates and dampening rates making them behave as though the shock was even lighter. As the stock pre-2014.5 shock is set up for a 160lb rider, the decrease in effective rates is undesireable for all but the lightest KLR pilots.....and the 2" longer links have twice the effect of the 1" ones.

The best solution if you really need to lower the bike that much is to have a custom shock sprung and valved for your weight usage AND to take into account the lowering link length. Cogent Dynamics does this all the time. Not the cheapest route to go though so as always it depends on budget.

Anyhow, this doesn't answer the question you asked so I'll be quiet now. Lots of guys (and gals) going back and forth on lowering links so it's quite possible you'll be able to find someone to swap with. Good luck. :-)

Cheers,
Dave
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post #5 of 14 Old 01-25-2017, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
gotcha. :-)

My point about weight was to point out (not very effectively, I admit) that lowering links change the effective springrates and dampening rates making them behave as though the shock was even lighter. As the stock pre-2014.5 shock is set up for a 160lb rider, the decrease in effective rates is undesireable for all but the lightest KLR pilots.....and the 2" longer links have twice the effect of the 1" ones.

The best solution if you really need to lower the bike that much is to have a custom shock sprung and valved for your weight usage AND to take into account the lowering link length. Cogent Dynamics does this all the time. Not the cheapest route to go though so as always it depends on budget.

Anyhow, this doesn't answer the question you asked so I'll be quiet now. Lots of guys (and gals) going back and forth on lowering links so it's quite possible you'll be able to find someone to swap with. Good luck. :-)

Cheers,
Dave
No worries Dave, I had heard that the stock spring rate might be an issue. If cranking the pre-load all the way doesn't do it, a better shock/spring will be called for. At some cost point a new (different) bike may also solve the problem. However in keeping with the "KLR650" (cheap) mindset, I wanted to try the links first.
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post #6 of 14 Old 01-26-2017, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
....I hope you're really light.....

Best bet on the sidestand is to cut and weld; experiment with shims under the wheels to you get the lean you're looking for but it'll be less than the lowering amount.

Dave
I agree. While traveling on the Trans-Canada Adventure Trail in Newfoundland, Canada with a lot of gear and not always having level surfaces for parking on dirt roads, I stopped at a small welding shop. I pulled the stand and the guy cut about 3/4" out and welded it in about 15 minutes. He charged nothing. Small shops like muffler shops are less expensive than an industrial shop.

I kept the cutout piece in case I want to put it back in, but I think I would just bolt something to the bottom of the foot for easy changes.
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post #7 of 14 Old 01-27-2017, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
I agree. While traveling on the Trans-Canada Adventure Trail in Newfoundland, Canada with a lot of gear and not always having level surfaces for parking on dirt roads, I stopped at a small welding shop. I pulled the stand and the guy cut about 3/4" out and welded it in about 15 minutes. He charged nothing. Small shops like muffler shops are less expensive than an industrial shop.

I kept the cutout piece in case I want to put it back in, but I think I would just bolt something to the bottom of the foot for easy changes.
Thank for the tip GoMotor, I'll look around here for kindhearted welders. That said, I think the companies that make lowering links are missing an opportunity by not providing shortened side stands also. Some kind of exchange program would be welcomed by us garage mechanics with limited resources.
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post #8 of 14 Old 01-27-2017, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by twinjet View Post
Thank for the tip GoMotor, I'll look around here for kindhearted welders. That said, I think the companies that make lowering links are missing an opportunity by not providing shortened side stands also. Some kind of exchange program would be welcomed by us garage mechanics with limited resources.
The welders get more kindhearted when you show up with baggage strapped all over and a foreign license plate on on the bike. It has worked for me with other problems on three different trips in Mexico and several times in the US. The more you look like wet kitten, the better your luck.

I agree that lowering/raising links and shortened/lengthened stands should be offered by the same vendors. Everyone inquiring about links should ask about matching stands at the same time. They might get the message.

For my first shortening job I cut out a section from the stand with a hand pipe cutter (hacksaw would have worked). I used a piece of 3/8 or 1/2" threaded rod with two or three nuts on each end. The nuts fit snugly in the stand with the points filed a bit. I drilled a hole through the stand and the rod/nuts and put a pin through it. You can see how this would be some what adjustable. I switched back to stock links on my first trip out to the dirt trails in the Rockies because I was bottoming out on the bumps with the lower links.
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post #9 of 14 Old 01-27-2017, 03:33 PM
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side Stand shortened

I cut my side stand. Picked up a coupling at Home Depot that fit inside the stand, and Drilled a couple of holes for small bolts, to hold it all together.. Painted it black. Worked great, and only took me a few hours to do.

As mentioned above, if you have a stand to be lengthened, just put a pad on the foot of the stand. ( It also helps to keep it from sinking into the ground.)

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
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post #10 of 14 Old 01-27-2017, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
I cut my side stand. Picked up a coupling at Home Depot that fit inside the stand, and Drilled a couple of holes for small bolts, to hold it all together.. Painted it black. Worked great, and only took me a few hours to do.

As mentioned above, if you have a stand to be lengthened, just put a pad on the foot of the stand. ( It also helps to keep it from sinking into the ground.)
What kind of coupling was that?

(can't see it on your website)

Last edited by twinjet; 01-27-2017 at 03:41 PM.
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