Anybody install one of these on their 650? How did it go?Thanks
The stock horn on my newly purchased 2011 KLR 650 is the poorest excuse for one that I have seen yet. It is gone. In its place is a Wolo "Bad Boy" purchased at Harbor Freight for just over $30 using a 25% off coupon. It comes complete with a relay that by itself usually costs $5-6.
Remove the (R) mid fairing.
Mount the horn at the upper coolant overflow tank attachment by removing the stock bolt and attaching the horn, with the trumpets facing outward, toward the mid fairing.
Do this with a M6 X 1.0 stainless cap screw. Use a lock washer and blue Loctite. The electrical terminals on the new horn are facing toward the front of the bike in this position. (+) is the upper one, closest to the middle of the bike, (-) is the one closest to the mid fairing.
The stock horn has two mounting bolts, one I used to mount the relay, the other to run multiple grounds from. Do not use the stock horn wires to power the new horn, it pulls close to 20 amps. You will blow fuses or maybe even damage your wiring harness, not good. Use these wires to trigger your relay.
Source main power to the relay terminal #87 from the battery (+) using 14ga wire running from a 20amp in line fuse holder. If you have a switched aftermarket fuse box like I do, and choose to run the main power source from one of its connections, be sure this circuit is protected with a 20 amp fuse.
From relay terminal #30 run 14ga wire to the (+) on the horn. For the stock horn leads, (+) goes to relay terminal #86, (-) to relay terminal #85. Run a ground wire from the horn (-) terminal using 14ga wire to one of the stock horn bolts, or wherever convenient to mount to the frame.
FYI, with this application, Kawasaki chose to have the stock (+) horn wire always on with the ignition switch. The (-) stock horn wire is switched from the horn button. This makes no difference when wiring up the relay, but the (+) stock horn lead could be tapped into as a switched power source for low amp applications like a GPS or as a trigger for another relay.
Use fully insulated terminal connections for all (+) leads and dielectric grease on all connections. Once you are sure all is connected properly, give it the honk test. Loud, ain't it? If you hear the motor on the horn spinning and no honk, you have the leads on the horn reversed. Swap them and you should be fine.
Re attach the mid fairing and you will see that the horn, as big as it is, fits nicely under it and is very inconspicuous at this mounting point.
There are some of you that will say that a Stebel Nautalus horn is louder and a little smaller, which it probably is, but it is $20 more expensive, plus shipping, plus the cost of a relay too! The wiring instructions for one of these will be the same, however, I am not sure that they will mount as easily.