I reworked my "dashboard". I'll describe what's there now but first I'm telling what was there and why I reworked it.
I've had a dashboard that used the same bolts as the headlight rear cover (1st-gen). It included a relay powered by the "city lights" wires that are unused up front. The relay turned on power to the outlets for the GPS and heated jacket. The "real" power comes from a 10 gauge pair that's fused at the battery.
The 5-function meter (or 5-malfunction meter) is right about 95% of the time. It doesn't have an indicator telling if the current display is part of the 5% or the 95%; i.e. it's not possible to know if it is right or wrong. The clock may keep perfect time for a week then lose 40 minutes one day. The temperature and voltage are also unpredictable. Yes, I siliconed the inside -- there are too many switches that expose the circuit board to outside humidity for that to work for me.
The jacket outlet on the dashboard was just barely in reach but the springy coiled cord on my jacket would pull the plug out of the outlet. I added a second outlet zip-tied to the handlebar. That worked better.
The cig outlet vibrates enough to eject any plug.
When I was stopped for a week I needed an always-on cig outlet. I rewired it, but it was more trouble than it should have been. You can see electrical tape in the pic below and that is from changes. The dashboard WAS almost all soldered connections and not made to be reconfigured.
I decided to make a box that was
- used Powerlet outlets
- more reliable display
I wanted to keep it all on a single inline fuse at the battery.
It has only a volt display. Note the display is NOT rectangular, but the top and bottom are bowed in. I like the small (7mm or .28") digits and it has been accurate so far. It's a SMAKN display from Amazon.
The inside uses 3 bus blocks. I cut the metal parts out of terminal strips and soldered them together. The bus blocks are, from left to right, ground, switched power, and always-on power. The plan is to embed the bus blocks in something more solid, but for the end of last year I just had them zip-tied to a piece of plastic with an inner-tube cover.
So that's my report on the mistakes I made in the past and the new direction for mistakes in the future.