Ideas for Luggage seal - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 12-18-2015, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Ideas for Luggage seal

I'm half thinking out loud here but would welcome any ideas.

My Pelican Storm cases started leaking. My fault. You can see in the pic that I've closed the cases on some small dowel or thick wire by the hinge. On the right side of picture it shows up as dents in two different ridges.



I'm thinking of mushing the plastic back into shape with a soldering iron. (I have used a soldering iron to reattach the arrowheads where the front shroud plugs into the tank grommets.) If that doesn't seal it completely I might grease the ridge opposite the gasket then add silicone on top of the gasket to make it thicker.

Anyone giving odds on success?
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post #2 of 18 Old 12-18-2015, 01:51 PM
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I have drilled and plugged holes and drilled and plugged holes and drilled and plugged holes (I'm not very good at getting it right the first time) on my Seahorse cases.

The cases are ABS. What I've done is to take some ABS cement and dissolve some ABS shavings in it to make a thicker past.

Clean the area with a bit of acetone, then use it sorta like Bondo. It wont be as thick so it could take a few applications.

Let it the final coat cure over night and then carve it up to suit.

ABS is quite forgiving but I have never had any luck forming it with heat.

If you are really adventurous you could spring for one of those plastic welding kits and have a go at it.

Tom

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post #3 of 18 Old 12-18-2015, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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ABS is a Styrene and can be repaired with cement. Pelican Storm cases are polypropylene and most glues and solvents don't work.

I considered a plastic welding kit in the past but I have had enough success with a (dedicated) soldering iron that it would take a bigger project than this to justify another tool. I have supplies of clean polypropylene to use as filler.
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post #4 of 18 Old 12-18-2015, 05:26 PM
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I had no idea that the Pelican cases were poly. Is that just the Storm or all of them?

edit: Never mind, I Googled that for myself. Turns out Seahorse cases are poly, too, and I've been fooling myself that my patched holes are anything other than plugs. Shrug.


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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 12-18-2015 at 05:35 PM.
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post #5 of 18 Old 12-18-2015, 09:10 PM
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I know that you did the damage yourself but sometimes contacting the manufacturer will give you unexpected results.

Just this week I was sent three bonnets for a tap set that the manufacturer gave me when I enquired about purchasing replacements.

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post #6 of 18 Old 12-19-2015, 04:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
I had no idea that the Pelican cases were poly.
Your experiments in repairing poly with ABS cement could be good news for me. I may continue your experiments.

While I've been riding regularly, there is likely to be a couple months of real snow. The long warm autumns here have a flip side in long cold springs.
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post #7 of 18 Old 12-19-2015, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by klr4evr View Post
I know that you did the damage yourself but sometimes contacting the manufacturer will give you unexpected results.
From what I've read about Pelican I could expect a replacement case. But I just can't do that.

Besides, I believe that a repair will be easier than replacement. I could be wrong.
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post #8 of 18 Old 12-19-2015, 09:34 AM
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When I was repairing my cracked 03 KLR rear fender I used hot glue. I heated the cracked area then applied the hot glue over it. It is still holding after 3 years. Yours is a more delicate repair so the soldering iron seems a good alternative for heating the base material.

I just had another thought....Why not use JBWeld? easy to apply and formable afterward as well.
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post #9 of 18 Old 12-19-2015, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
Your experiments in repairing poly with ABS cement could be good news for me. I may continue your experiments.

While I've been riding regularly, there is likely to be a couple months of real snow. The long warm autumns here have a flip side in long cold springs.
In my case (pun intended) I had a set of holes drilled for the original mounting on a Moose rack, then I changed the mounting holes for use with CycleRack supports, and finally I have built another mounting system for the CycleRack.

What I'm fixing is drilled holes. It could well be that the ABS trick is working because there are minor imperfections in the drilled hole that the ABS is locking into once it hardens. There are only two holes that haven't patched well and I had though that it was poor surface prep. It might be that those holes are simply too smooth.

I think the soldering iron and welding is the best bet for a real repair on poly.

Tom

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post #10 of 18 Old 12-19-2015, 10:11 AM
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Grinnin,
For those small raised ribs, one might test to see how well 'Shoe Goo' or 'Automotive Goop' bonds to the base material. They get firm enough in 24 hours that you might could blend the contours with a Dremel tool.
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