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post #11 of 20 Old 05-21-2011, 02:53 PM
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Thank you for this thread. Good job on everything.

I would suggest you have a M14 die on hand to tidy up the swing arm bolt threads, should you need to persuade them out.

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post #12 of 20 Old 05-22-2011, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Well back again to finish this thing up. I wish I could say I'm returning triumphant, king amongst men and all that but the swingarm bolt got the better of me. It started to mushroom and I cut my losses before I did some real damage. I got tons of advice on how to get it out so i will save all that up for another day and time. But let this serve as a reminder to all... Grease your swingarm bolt! Don't let it go unnoticed. Or you like me will be fighting it forever. Here is about the time I realized I was beat...

No damage done, that's what crash protection is for. Lesson learned. And on we go.


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"Work to ride and ride to work."
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post #13 of 20 Old 05-22-2011, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Before pulling out the swingarm bolt your going to need to remove your rear brake spring so that it does not get damaged.

It will look like this.

So for the sake of this thread let's say you got your swingarm off. Check the bearings for any dull and flat spots. If all is well grease it up and reinstall. Get the bolt slid back into place making sure everything stays in place.

Now your going to tighten the swingarm bolt. Torque is 88Nm or 65ft lb. Whichever you choose.


"If you don't ride in the rain, you don't ride."
"Work to ride and ride to work."
"Accidents hurt - safety doesn't."
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post #14 of 20 Old 05-22-2011, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Now that this swingarm is back in place it's time to slide the shock back into place. Pull up slightly on the swingarm and it should slide in nicely. Now get the top shock mount bolt ready to be installed. Clean the threads and if you so choose apply a dab of the thread locker of your choice.
Once the bolt it started tighten it up and torque to 59 Nm/ 44ftlb.

Replace the black hose and clip back onto the bottom of the air box.

Once the top is tight you can get the bottom ready. Clean the bolts and the bolt holes of all old grease and dirt that may have gotten in there. I started with the bottom shock mount bolt. Apply a generous amount of fresh waterproof grease to the smooth portion of the bolt and slide it into place. Next clean up the two dog bone bolts and the dog bones themselves if you so choose. Again apply grease to the bolts. I started with the forward most bolt and got that in place and then the swingarm can be maneuvered to get the rearward dog bone bolt in place. Now that all the bolts are in place and dog bones are in order clean up the threads of the bolts that are sticking out. Again apply thread lock if you so choose. Torque on all three nuts is 98Nm or 72ft lb.


"If you don't ride in the rain, you don't ride."
"Work to ride and ride to work."
"Accidents hurt - safety doesn't."

Last edited by Aron31; 05-22-2011 at 05:33 PM. Reason: Posted too soon. Forgot some info.
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post #15 of 20 Old 05-22-2011, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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That should wrap up the shock installation. Next up will be the reinstallation of the rear wheel which most everyone should be pretty familiar with. First off clean up the axel and wheel of all old grease and dirt. Grease up the axel with the left side collar/chain adjuster plate in place already. Get the wheel in place, slide the chain onto the rear sprocket, line up the rear brake caliper, then lift up on the rear wheel and slide the axel into place making sure that all spacers stay in position. Sounds much easier than it is but if you made it this far I have confidence in you. Now that it's all in place and looks correct get the right side collar/plate and washer slid on and ready for the rear axel bolt. Clean up the threads and make sure the holes for the cotter pin cleaned out. Put the nut on but just hand tight. Next comes getting the rear wheel straight and chain properly tensioned. There are marks on the swingarm to use as starting marks but I would measure from rear axel center to some consistet point on both sides of the bike. This ensures that the wheel is straight. Chain tension is debatable and everyone has their own oppinion and I will not tell you what's right and wrong. My opinion is that I would rather have a loose chain than a tight one. So I set mine a little looser than some but whatever makes you happy. Once your happy with all that it's time to lock down the rear axel nut. I use a screwdriver in-between the chain and sprocket and roll the wheel to get the chain nice and pressed up against the adjutsers. Torque the nut to 98Nm 72ft lb. Remove the screwdriver if used and double check your chain for slack and ensure it's straight. If it's to your liking then install a cotter pin. If the holes do not line up I prefer to slightly loosen the nut to get a hole that lines up rather than over torque the nut.

Put the cotter pin in and bent over the 2 ends to lock it into place. Now is also a good time to pump up the rear brake to ensure the pads are seated. Nothing is more unnerving than to go out on a ride after working on it and to expect there to be brakes and there is nothing since there were not pumped up.

Now you should be looking at a pretty finished project. If all is well you should be ready to go. I prefer to go and double check all work preformed. Make sure all the nuts and bolts are in place and tight. If you so desire now would also be a good time to clean and lube your chain. Now it's time to go enjoy your new shock. I only went on a quick ride with mine but man its like night and day difference. Way better now.
I hope you found this helpful. If anyone has any questions about what was done here or feels like a missed something in this write up please jump in and put it up here.


"If you don't ride in the rain, you don't ride."
"Work to ride and ride to work."
"Accidents hurt - safety doesn't."
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post #16 of 20 Old 05-22-2011, 07:25 PM
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Aron31 -

Nicely done!

I've added your write-up to the "Common Mods and Issues" post.

T

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post #17 of 20 Old 08-14-2016, 04:07 PM
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nice write up
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post #18 of 20 Old 07-02-2018, 05:51 PM
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Dredging up.....I used the Eibach 0900.225.0500 spring instead of this one (500lbs rate). Tad cheaper. I'm 6'2", 260 pounds. On preload #1 its perfect for me, allowing plenty of preload left for gear or two-up. There are other spring rates. Just change the "0500" for whatever poundage you need, in 50lb increments.
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post #19 of 20 Old 07-26-2018, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaky6 View Post
Dredging up.....I used the Eibach 0900.225.0500 spring instead of this one (500lbs rate). Tad cheaper. I'm 6'2", 260 pounds. On preload #1 its perfect for me, allowing plenty of preload left for gear or two-up. There are other spring rates. Just change the "0500" for whatever poundage you need, in 50lb increments.
great! thanks for this, i was looking at the one the OP had provided a link to, and i was thinking 350lbs is not very much when yon consider gear or passenger. any links as to where you purchased?

cheers!
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post #20 of 20 Old 07-26-2018, 09:50 AM
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Just search the model number for the best price. I think mine came from Summit Racing.

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