Tubeliss conversion part 1 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Tubeliss conversion part 1

The bead on my rear tire is extremely hard to break loose for some reason. I had real concerns about being able to do a field flat repair.

I saw Cyb's tubeliss conversion page on Smugmug. It looked reasonable so thought I would give it a go!

http://cyb.smugmug.com/gallery/72508...9444&k=BjwM3St

Just to make my case... I've tried various methods to break the bead. Tires irons eventually work but it takes many trips around the wheel and lots of force not something I want to rely on.

Hah my tire laughs at my puny C-Clamp


Even a bench vise doesn't break the bead without yanking the tire back and forth:



Ah finally after much wrestling and windex and I still have to flip the wheel and break the other side!



I know what you're thinking the rim must be gunked up or something tires shouldn't be that difficult well here's what the rim looked like:



So yea I don't know what the deal is but anyway. I used a wire wheel on a drill motor and cleaned up the rim. Spent a good amount of time cleaning around the spoke nipples. They had some rust/corrosion not too bad but I believe in good prep = good results.



I couldn't find a syringe like Cyb used for the Seal All so used a nozzle I had laying around



This is after 2 applications of the Seal All. The small bubbles formed during drying. I was carefull not to cause any bubbles when applying.



I had to order the valve stem from Napa it was the only one I could find that fit the rim without enlarging the hole, just in case this didn't work out and I had to put a tube back in. I used the household variety of Goop. Here's what it looked like after application:



on to part 2...

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9

Last edited by Spec; 09-19-2013 at 02:48 PM.
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post #2 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 03:30 PM
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Great job on the clean-up, wish I had done that to mine!

Could it just be the certain type of tire that is tough to break the bead? Is the tire really old or has been exposed to extra high heat/extra low cold? Did you have it over-inflated for a long period of time??? None of these things sound like the issue to me but I am reaching for straws... when I took the stem out of my tubes, the bead basically just fell off the wheel with little force at all. spooning new tires on, well that's another story. >.<

2006 KLR650 (Salvage Project)
2007 ZX6R (The "nice" bike)

Last edited by jazzman; 08-26-2013 at 03:35 PM.
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post #3 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzman View Post
Could it just be the certain type of tire that is tough to break the bead?
I've also had decent luck with the Metzler's the PO had on there, and the k761s I've had on. I read a trick for breaking beads somewhere that I've used: jam the flat of the iron straight in there, put a crescent wrench on the other end of the iron, turn the wrench/twist the iron 90į.
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post #4 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beejjorgensen View Post
I've also had decent luck with the Metzler's the PO had on there, and the k761s I've had on. I read a trick for breaking beads somewhere that I've used: jam the flat of the iron straight in there, put a crescent wrench on the other end of the iron, turn the wrench/twist the iron 90į.

That's the first I've heard of that, I'll try it next change.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #5 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzman View Post
Great job on the clean-up, wish I had done that to mine!

Could it just be the certain type of tire that is tough to break the bead? Is the tire really old or has been exposed to extra high heat/extra low cold? Did you have it over-inflated for a long period of time??? None of these things sound like the issue to me but I am reaching for straws... when I took the stem out of my tubes, the bead basically just fell off the wheel with little force at all. spooning new tires on, well that's another story. >.<

All the back tires I've had on the bike have been hard to break. Kenda 244s and 761s, Shinko 2..? and 705, and a few others. Usually run about 36 psi.

I commute on my bike about 200 miles per week. Typically get <5k miles per back tire. Bike has almost 60K miles so I've been through a dozen or so rears.

I've had dirt bikes since I was a kid never had problems breaking the bead. I don't know why it's so hard on my KLR seems to be atypical from what I've read.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #6 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 07:40 PM
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I found running the front tire of an automobile over the motorcycle tire effective in breaking the bead; gotta be careful not to bend the motorcycle wheel rim in the process . . .
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post #7 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 08:02 PM
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Considered trying a tubeless conversion after having to cut the bead on an Avon Gripster that had been to Alaska. The thing that made me hesitate is the supposed difficulty of getting the tire to inflate without a lot of pressure behind it; something you can't necessarily get with a portable pump. Would be very interested to know how this works out.
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post #8 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 08:07 PM
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Take NOTICE of the RAISED RIB next to the drop center of the spokes!

The rim is built like a TUBELESS rim. A good tubeless CAPABLE tire like a GRIPSTER or ANAKEE, snaps ON.

A tube-type rim on a dirt bike doesn't have the raised rib. (Look at the KLR FRONT RIM) And a tube type tire is a looser fit. (Doesn't NEED to SEAL, the tube holds the air.)
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post #9 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Take NOTICE of the RAISED RIB next to the drop center of the spokes!

The rim is built like a TUBELESS rim. A good tubeless CAPABLE tire like a GRIPSTER or ANAKEE, snaps ON.

A tube-type rim on a dirt bike doesn't have the raised rib. (Look at the KLR FRONT RIM) And a tube type tire is a looser fit. (Doesn't NEED to SEAL, the tube holds the air.)
pdwestman

Ah-ha so it is a tubeliss rim. I know it looked different than the front.

So I won't die, good to know!

Any tips on an effective way to break the bead without driving a car over it?
I've done that actually. Set the wheel on some 2x4s and had my wife ease up on it. Kinda spooky!

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #10 of 29 Old 08-26-2013, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trundlebike View Post
Considered trying a tubeless conversion after having to cut the bead on an Avon Gripster that had been to Alaska. The thing that made me hesitate is the supposed difficulty of getting the tire to inflate without a lot of pressure behind it; something you can't necessarily get with a portable pump. Would be very interested to know how this works out.

It didn't take much pressure to seat the bead on mine. I'm thinking that a CO2 inflator would work. You would only need it if the bead was broken. I've had a couple of rears flats but the bead didn't break even after riding quite aways.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9

Last edited by Spec; 08-26-2013 at 09:30 PM.
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