The first step to mothballing a bike is to wash it and ride it dry. Lube the
chain, and pivot points like footpegs and levers. Lube the cables.
Always drain the float, and either drain or fill the tank with Stabil-ized gas. The carb float bowl is open to the air through the vent. Stabil in the gas will keep the gas in the tank from going bad, but do little to keep the gas in the float bowl from congealing into a tarry mess that gets sucked right into the jets when you try to start the bike, and then you need a carb cleaning. So drain it before you park it, and again before you start it, unless you *like* carb cleaning.
Since the KLR is water cooled, make sure you have good antifreeze, if the bike is going to freeze.
You might want to roll it up on a couple little planks of wood or something to get the rubber tires off the damp concrete. If you store it near a running electric motor, like a freezer or something, the ozone from the motor can rot the tires, over time.
If you put the bike in gear and roll it forward into compression, it'll close the intake and exhaust valves, sealing the combustion chamber from moisture.
When you de-mothball the bike, check the air filter for animal nests before starting the bike.
I disagree with the "change the oil but don't start it" advice. When you drain the old, acid-laden oil, you certainly don't get it all out, but if you circulate the new detergent-carrying oil by starting the engine, you neutralize the acid you left. The amount to wear on the new oil by running it for a couple of minutes is almost nothing. Actually, ideally you'd get the bike up to maximum operating temperature, to boil out any water in the oil system. But on a stock KLR, that doesn't really happen, so just change it and circulate it.
- Dave, under the shade tree