Clutch Cable proper routing from handlebar down onto engine clutch lever. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 05-06-2015, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Lomita. California. 90717
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Clutch Cable proper routing from handlebar down onto engine clutch lever.

Hi.
My recently purchased 2014 KLR has an issue with the clutch cable. It jams under the inginition switch as I turn the handlebar from one side to other.

I suspect it was installed in failure. I do not have a shop manual, but I have shop manuals showing cable routing for my other bikes.

The way it is installed now will not last, cable is chaffin and sounds like an old hinge.

Any insight is appreciated.

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post #2 of 15 Old 05-06-2015, 08:47 PM
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I gotta' ask, did some inexperienced assembly and prep guy at the dealership route the clutch cable THRU the little 'loop' on the handlebar? Instead of the choke cable thru the little loop?

Properly routed, from the lever adjuster to Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch. Over the fairing mount, in front of the steering neck. Down the RH side, to a bolt on loop at the top of coolant reservoir to a bolt on loop at the bottom of reservoir. Under the exhaust and between the Two coolant hoses to the lower adjuster bracket!

Might be easier to check from the Bottom-UP, sorry.

pdwestman
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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 15 Old 05-07-2015, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I gotta' ask, did some inexperienced assembly and prep guy at the dealership route the clutch cable THRU the little 'loop' on the handlebar? Instead of the choke cable thru the little loop?

Properly routed, from the lever adjuster to Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch. Over the fairing mount, in front of the steering neck. Down the RH side, to a bolt on loop at the top of coolant reservoir to a bolt on loop at the bottom of reservoir. Under the exhaust and between the Two coolant hoses to the lower adjuster bracket!

Might be easier to check from the Bottom-UP, sorry.
Thanks for the info.

That is exactly what was done (loop on handlebar and rest).

Will correct it as you said. thanks again.
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post #4 of 15 Old 05-07-2015, 11:43 AM
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Glad to help. Sorry for the inconvenience / aggravation.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 15 Old 06-17-2015, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I gotta' ask, did some inexperienced assembly and prep guy at the dealership route the clutch cable THRU the little 'loop' on the handlebar? Instead of the choke cable thru the little loop?

Properly routed, from the lever adjuster to Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch. Over the fairing mount, in front of the steering neck. Down the RH side, to a bolt on loop at the top of coolant reservoir to a bolt on loop at the bottom of reservoir. Under the exhaust and between the Two coolant hoses to the lower adjuster bracket!

Might be easier to check from the Bottom-UP, sorry.
Seriously??? I'm glad I read this post.
I've had my 2003 KLR since 2004. I've ridden it for ~72,000km's with the clutch cable routed WRONG as it would turn out... Mine routes from the clutch lever through the Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch, down the left side by the left fork, down under the exhaust and between the coolant hoses to the adjuster bracket.
When i replaced the cable, both times because it snapped, I just routed it the same way. I wonder if it snapping has anything to do with how it is routed?
Through compression on the front forks, the cable gets squished a bit between my fork brace and the bottom of the faring/steeing mounts. I keep moving the cables to the outside of the fork leg, but it always winds up back on the inside.
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post #6 of 15 Old 06-17-2015, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Good you finally realized it. From what I know from my street bikes wiring and cable routing diagrams ....( many times after bike going to shops Ifound electrical and other cables wrongly routed. Following diagrams -which I have none for the KLR- I was able to correct it) ....cables and wites have specific routing positions. Cables can peel off causing short circuits,bind and jam as in clutch cables , and mechanics (bad ones) care less or are ignorant sbout the matter Always watch out. Wish I had a source f diagrams like I have seen gor other bikes.
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post #7 of 15 Old 06-17-2015, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korruptor View Post
Seriously??? I'm glad I read this post.
I've had my 2003 KLR since 2004. I've ridden it for ~72,000km's with the clutch cable routed WRONG as it would turn out... Mine routes from the clutch lever through the Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch, down the left side by the left fork, down under the exhaust and between the coolant hoses to the adjuster bracket.
When i replaced the cable, both times because it snapped, I just routed it the same way. I wonder if it snapping has anything to do with how it is routed?
Through compression on the front forks, the cable gets squished a bit between my fork brace and the bottom of the faring/steeing mounts. I keep moving the cables to the outside of the fork leg, but it always winds up back on the inside.
Korruptor,
Ya' also have to Know differences between your Old model and the New '08 and ups.

The large round metal loop to the left of your tach mount on the 2003 is for the Front brake hose!
The clutch cable Should pass Between said loop and the tachometer mount, NOT Thru the loop. Then over the fairing mount to the RH side, and down thru the small loops.

And bar risers or taller bars can make all this "null and void".

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #8 of 15 Old 06-17-2015, 07:07 PM
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Did the same thing and crunched it when adding risers. I tried creative rerouting
to give some slack for the additional height of the lever/ cable stay.


As soon as I felt resistance steering to one side it kinked the cable and
started the weak spot for the next failure. Replaced with a longer unit
and factory routing. It's all good last few years, and hopefully a few more.

Lesson learned,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #9 of 15 Old 06-18-2015, 07:07 AM
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Not clutch cable-related, but cable-related anyway:

After installing 1-1/2" Eagle Mike risers for my Generation 1's handlebars, at full lock, the choke cable was just barely nudged by the handlebar excursion.

At idle, if the choke cable is just barely nudged on a warm, running KLR650 engine, the engine will die (try it). This effect was most interesting, as in when making a U-turn in stopped traffic on a crowded street . . . straighten bars, find neutral, and start the bike, hoping to escape oncoming motorists . . .

Some minor re-adjustment of handlebar hardware, and the consequent re-orientation of the choke cable, solved the problem. Rather daunting, 'til I discovered the cause and cure of the sudden unexpected flame-outs..

[/Thread Hijack]
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post #10 of 15 Old 06-18-2015, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Korruptor,
Ya' also have to Know differences between your Old model and the New '08 and ups.

The large round metal loop to the left of your tach mount on the 2003 is for the Front brake hose!
The clutch cable Should pass Between said loop and the tachometer mount, NOT Thru the loop. Then over the fairing mount to the RH side, and down thru the small loops.

And bar risers or taller bars can make all this "null and void".
Good to know. I plan on doing some cable re-routing today at lunch. Thanks.
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