Engine seized? Is it worth rebuilding? - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #11 of 24 Old 06-10-2018, 07:25 PM
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Oh yeah, forgot about the plug to rotate. Much easier.

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post #12 of 24 Old 06-11-2018, 07:07 AM
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x2 on 5th gear and moving the tire by hand or rolling the bike. If it is seized you won't be moving.
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post #13 of 24 Old 06-11-2018, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback.

I hope to get the bike jumped later this week. With the bike off the voltage across battery is approximately 11.7V, which drops to 9.4V with the bike on, and 7.3V when the ignition being hit. I assume this means I need a new battery?

I can also rotate the rear wheel a bit in 2nd gear, I tested that before writing the original post. But it didn't think about the battery possibly being fully charged yet too weak to start the bike, so I thought the engine seized.
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post #14 of 24 Old 06-11-2018, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33rust View Post
.............. i didn't think about the battery possibly being fully charged yet too weak to start the bike, so I thought the engine seized.
Now you know the battery is not fully charged or not capable of taking a full charge. A fully charged good battery would have about 12.7 volts.

Hopefully a jump start will end your worries about the engine and then you can trouble shoot the battery problem.
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post #15 of 24 Old 06-11-2018, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33rust View Post
I hope to get the bike jumped later this week. With the bike off the voltage across battery is approximately 11.7V, which drops to 9.4V with the bike on, and 7.3V when the ignition being hit. I assume this means I need a new battery?

I can also rotate the rear wheel a bit in 2nd gear, I tested that before writing the original post. But it didn't think about the battery possibly being fully charged yet too weak to start the bike, so I thought the engine seized.
Q.) New Battery?

A.) Maybe. I'd certainly try recharging the one you have first. If for no other reason than it simply costs less.
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post #16 of 24 Old 06-12-2018, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33rust View Post
I hope to get the bike jumped later this week. With the bike off the voltage across battery is approximately 11.7V, which drops to 9.4V with the bike on, and 7.3V when the ignition being hit. I assume this means I need a new battery?
Those are the same symptoms I had with my Goldwing Battery. You’ve likely got a dead cell. No way is 7.3 V going to spin your motor over.

Get yourself a quality replacement and I’m sure you’all be riding again. I bought a Deca, no more Yuasa junk for me.

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post #17 of 24 Old 06-14-2018, 12:20 AM
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I had exactly the same on my 2007. It turned out to be a loose battery connection. Re tighten it and it was good to go. Check your terminals. Cheers Lars
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post #18 of 24 Old 06-15-2018, 06:08 PM
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From the information provided, the engine is seized and is of little value. The rest of the bike is just scrap at this point also. But, I'm feeling generous. I'll pick up the bike and give you $439 to help you get over your loss.
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post #19 of 24 Old 06-15-2018, 07:40 PM
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From the information provided, the engine is seized and is of little value. The rest of the bike is just scrap at this point also. But, I'm feeling generous. I'll pick up the bike and give you $439 to help you get over your loss.
I'm just guessing that you are looking for a very cheap deal on a used KLR, outdoorgb?

Shame on you for trying to take unfair advantage of a new rider.

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post #20 of 24 Old 06-15-2018, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I'm just guessing that you are looking for a very cheap deal on a used KLR, outdoorgb?

Shame on you for trying to take unfair advantage of a new rider.
Bad joke. Not funny.
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