Lubrication of the chain. - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #11 of 69 Old 07-27-2018, 08:12 PM
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Location: Mesa, AZ, USA
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Where 'n What I don't know, but...

Kerosene cleans our O-Ring Chains safely (w/o deteriorating any rubber o-rings).
It makes no sense to me to Lube w/o cleaning but let's be honest...
I do it all the time.
I clean the chain when it's more gunky than less gunky.
And I like ChainWax since it's sticks and it doesn't change the color of my rear wheel
(aesthetics are important despite my having a KLR).

I can also admit I don't Lube my Chain every 400 miles. I hesitate to admit how often I DON'T,
but I've gotten better over the years thank-you-very-much.

I do enjoy a clean (and quieter) chain!!!
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post #12 of 69 Old 07-27-2018, 09:05 PM
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I lost my attempt at an earlier reply, timed out by interruption.

Some of you seem to be over-looking (miss-typing) the difference between the rivet pin being SEALED by the o-rings with-in the Interior diameter of the BUSHING and the ROLLER needing lubricant on both its Interior & Exterior surfaces.

When the Interior of the Roller wears on the Exterior of the Bushing, the roller just rattles around bushing a little more.

When the Outside Diameter of the Rivet Pin wears along with the Inside Diameter of the Bushing, the resulting clearance increases the effective rivet pin center to rivet pin center, commonly referred to as chain 'stretch'.

When a drive chain has TOO little Slack or the 'sealed in' grease is worn-out or the o-rings begin to fail ( and let dirt in) the wear rate of the Rivet Pin and the Interior diameter of the Bushing accelerates dramatically.

This is not how I tried to explain it earlier, when it was still simple. Now its "SNAFU"ed, imo.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #13 of 69 Old 07-28-2018, 11:31 AM
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Is there going to be a Test after this Thread?
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post #14 of 69 Old 07-28-2018, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaddyD View Post
All I can say is on my 2018 KLR there seems to be only 2 O rings per pin and they appear to be located between the inner and outer plates. When I spray my chain I clearly see lube entering the roller bushings and when cleaning I clearly see black gunk washing out of there.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O-ring_chain

https://www.motosport.com/blog/o-rin...-vs-non-o-ring
I'm on a tablet so my cut and paste skills are failing; read the paragraph under "Construction" in the wiki link you posted and all should become clear. If you are getting lube between the pins and bushings on your sealed chain, your chain is shot



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post #15 of 69 Old 07-28-2018, 01:52 PM
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My understanding is an o ring or x ring chain is lubed internally for the life of the chain, and clean and lube of the exterior is intended to preserve the rubber seal.
Having riden mostly shaft drive bikes for the last 20 some odd years, Iím relatively new to chain drive. Hell when I was young we never even cleaned or lubed the dang things.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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post #16 of 69 Old 07-28-2018, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan filipi View Post
Hell when I was young we never even cleaned or lubed the dang things.
Dan, when we were young, a high mileage bike had over 10K miles on it. At 20K they were terminal! Chains and Sprockets would usually hang in there for that long . . . . if you were lucky.
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post #17 of 69 Old 07-28-2018, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by KLRCraig View Post
Is there going to be a Test after this Thread?
Yes, and you're in!
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post #18 of 69 Old 07-29-2018, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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After the information compiled with the correct comments of all. I cleaned the chain with kerosene and then I put it on WD40.
During the process it seemed to me that the inner side of the rear sprocket showed wear on the right side differently than the left side of it. Think of the alignment of the tire and look at the marks. The one on the right side seems to me to be more advanced than the one on the left side. This may be what is making the wear different. I would say more wear on the right side. I enclose a few pics. Hope te pics help
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post #19 of 69 Old 07-29-2018, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicky View Post
After the information compiled with the correct comments of all. I cleaned the chain with kerosene and then I put it on WD40.
During the process it seemed to me that the inner side of the rear sprocket showed wear on the right side differently than the left side of it. Think of the alignment of the tire and look at the marks. The one on the right side seems to me to be more advanced than the one on the left side. This may be what is making the wear different. I would say more wear on the right side. I enclose a few pics. Hope te pics help
When you adjust chain tension you can't just align the marks on the swingarm like the manual says to do, "IF" you are looking for the best alignment. The better way is with the wheel off the ground, (by hand) spin the rear wheel through 3 or 4 revolutions and let it stop on it's own without any outside interference like by grabbing it with the brakes, etc.. Note where the teeth on the sprocket are in relation to the two inner plates of the chain. If off to one side and not centered equally between the two your wheel is out of alignment. Turn the adjusters until it runs true regardless of whether the swingarm marks are equal. When your rear wheel and of course rear sprocket, is in the proper alignment with the front sprocket the chain will run with the rear sprocket teeth dead center on the bushings between the two inner plates of the chain.
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post #20 of 69 Old 08-01-2018, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
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I delayed answering because I was outside the city. today look at the chain and the teeth of the sprocket. and they are not centered. I'm going to make the adjustment on the weekend. Thanks for the information.

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