Maxima Synthetic Chain Guard is not as prone to get as 'gunky' as quickly as the Maxima Chain Wax.

I usually do 2 or 3 lubeings and the 3 or 4th time will be a WD-40'ing to help rinse away the dust & lube build up.

@jrdjr , moved your post here. Check this thread out.

Thankyou Tom, I needed to read this thread, first. Just the information I needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
another way to check alignment (and one I've used for years) is to sight down the top of the chain whilst pushing up on the bottom to remove slack; any misalignment will be obvious and show as a curve.


Dave
I already tried to see from above the chain but the chain guard does not allow me to see vertically. Should I remove the chain cover or where do I look?
Sorry if I do not understand well and thanks for the way to do it. English is not my native language.
Dicky

That is very good advice Dave. I now use that method. Dicky, I still have my chain guard in place. I shine a torch down the chain guard from the rear and sight along the top run of the chain. the torch's light allows me to sight the whole length of the chain.

I assume that any deviation in the chain will occur immediately after the rear sprocket, as the rear sprocket is what will be out of alignment. Is this assumption correct?

The easiest and best way to check chain alignment is to raise the rear wheel with the bike level.(not leaning over) then turn the wheel by hand through about 5 revolutions or so. A driven sprocket perfectly in alignment with the drive sprocket will have the chain roller evenly centered on the rear sprocket teeth. If one side plate has more gap than the other then it is out of alignment. Basically, it is the same principal as the old PTO flat belts on antique tractors. Once you got the tractor and implement lined up together the belt would run true without the need for a sheave on the pulley to keep it on.

Thanks for the advice PaddyD. I will remember it when next time I adjust my chain, or the flat belt on and antique tractor....

Cheers

Matthew

My routine:

Put bike in neutral and get rear wheel off the ground ultra-ghetto-style, by leaning the bike onto the kickstand so the right side comes up and placing a 2x4 under the frame. Pour kerosene into a small cup and dip an old toothbrush in it. Use toothbrush to scrub all four sides of the chain, rotating rear wheel as necessary. Once the whole chain's been scrubbed, wipe it clean with a shop towel, repeat the kerosene scrubbing, wipe clean again. Take bike for an easy five-minute ride to warm up the chain. Spray the chain with so much lube that my mechanic will inevitably take a look at the mess and shake his head dolefully at these overzealous amateur mechanics.

My chain has x or y rings, not o rings (can't remember which) so I guess theoretically I could use WD-40, but--well, that's just a little too Red Green for me. (Yes, yes...this is coming from the guy who uses a 2x4 as a stand.) I only use lube that's made specifically for the purpose.

It baffles me that anyone would want to ride with an unlubed chain. My bike definitely seems to run more smoothly after it's been lubed than it does during the five-minute unlubed ride.

Because THIS tells us that you don't need lube: http://watt-man.com/uploads/WD40experiment.pdf

which allows us to avoid THIS;





Lube is fine and though it doesn't penetrate past the O rings, it will likely increase chain life by lessening the roller to chain wear......but for me (and, I suspect many others), the cleanliness and convenience of just cleaning with WD is worth the slight reduction in chain life. If my chains last for 5 years instead of 6 without lube then I'll be very happy.

Cheers,
Dave