Pretty in Pink, dunno why
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Buongiorno, Fabio. Welcome to the forum.
You have over-torqued the bolt.
The torque value for that bolt does specify a dry installation, but the torque spec has varied quite a bit. The following is some stuff I have written in the past on the topic and I have simply cut and pasted it here. This is simply background information.
"I'd have to check manuals, too, but I believe it was in the KLR600 manual where it was called a replacement item. The funny thing about that is that the torque requirement (which has varied quite a bit) was lower in that usage. edit: For those not familiar with the early KHI manual system, the KLR600 was the base manual so any requirements in it, unless superseded in a later supplement, carried through to 2007. Thus the bolt replacement may have carried through to 2007; dunno if it was ever superseded in a Gen1 supplement.
This is one of those things were, when asked what is needed, I suggest a replacement bolt because it's never a bad idea to replace the bolt, it isn't that expensive in the grand scheme of things, and I don't want to take any liability or have a guilty conscience should something go wrong with the bolt replacement. If a replacement bolt is used then the original bolt should be cleaned with acetone and used for the initial torquing, then the new bolt is installed.
Some history: The bolt has not changed over the entire run of KLR650s. The torque was, at first, 118N-m (or 156N-m, depending on which page of the '84 manual you happened to be reading). Then it was raised to 176N-m, and finally to 195N-m. As far as I know, the crank has undergone at least four iterations. First the '84 KLR600 crank, then it was lengthened by a halfish inch for the '85 and '86 600s, then the '87 crank came along only to be replaced in 1988. It changed again in the big '96 redesign and again with the Gen 2 introduction in 2008.
The threaded section for the rotor bolt, though, has never changed."
So, let's say that you have, by tightening it wet to 175 actually torqued it to 225. That's pretty tight, being 30% over the specification. Even though the original recommendation to replace the bolt was back in the KLR600 manual and is no longer in the current manual even with a torque spec that is 65% greater than the original specification, I would begin to worry a bit about that bolt.
As big a pain in the butt as it might be, I would err on the side of caution and replace the bolt and torque it, dry, to 175.
As to the torquing in stages, the current instruction is to tighten it a bit, back it off, then torque it all in one motion. Even though the earlier manuals did not call for that, I think it is good practice. By doing so you can see if the rotor is on correctly, if the starter ring gear is binding, etc. But note that the bolt is backed off and torqued all at once. As mentioned above, I think that the initial torque should be done, dry with the old bolt after cleaning it, then the final torquing done all at once with a new bolt.
Tom [email protected]
“The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother.”
'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.”
Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem
Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 10-21-2019 at 06:48 PM.