Newbie in VA needs advice - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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Newbie in VA needs advice

Recently got my new to me 2001 klr650 with 3900 miles back from the shop. When I bought her she ran OK just needed to crank over awhile before she started because the gas was 5 months old. The tires were the original 01 tires that were showing their age. I took it to a shop that quoted me a good price on the phone for a tune-up, new tires and a battery tender. When I went to pick it up 4 weeks later they hand me a bill for 380.31 (parts)+19.02 (tax)+408.2 (5.8hrs labor)= 807.35 almost double the quote! New tires and a tune-up on my car doesn't cost that much! The parts they charged me for were: Float valve+clip (43.58), O-ring float chamber+drain screw (17.48), Shinko 705's (148.9), cotter pin (0.98), battery tender (39.95), battery (56.95), oil (22.47). They said that they had to rebuild my carb and replace the battery both of which they did not call me before doing. The tune up included: brake fluid flush/replace, engine oil (didn't change filter), valve adjustment, new spark plug and 2 gal. gas. I am new to motorcycling so I don't know if this a normal price to pay for this type of work or if I was "had". I am leaning towards the latter. They dropped the price to 705.02 after I asked them to work with me in the price because of the unauthorized work and incomplete tune-up (radiator fluid wasn't flushed as originally agreed). I payed them and took the bike home. As I am unloading the bike I notice the plastic skid plate is missing and a screw on the brake fluid reservoir was stripped. I called them and they said they would look into it. This was a couple of weeks ago. Should I take the bike back and ask them to replace the screw and skid plate? or should I let it slide?
I cant spend that kind of money every time I need an oil change. Which service manual is the best to get?

I welcome all feedback
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 04:00 AM
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Get a Clymer manual and never, ever let a shop touch your bike again. I was a novice at wrenching when I got my bike and still have a lot to learn, but I have friends and am not afraid to ask Q's and it is an easy bike to work on.

Forget about whether or not you got "had". It's done. You won't ever have to pay for an oil change again. Think about it that way. Changing the oil takes five minutes.

Welcome to the club.




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post #3 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Lockjaw. I am very comfortable working on my cages but because it is my first bike I decided to play it safe and take it to a shop. Rookie mistake I know better now. I was checking out some youtube maintenance vids and the KLR looks like it would be an easy bike to work on. I will get a Clymer ASAP. On a different note I just picked up two 20mm ammo cans for $20 a piece that I am hoping to use as panniers. They are big, cheap and water tight. All I have to do is get the pannier racks and weld tabs for padlocks on the cans and I'll be good to go
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post #4 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 06:50 AM
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Flat-rate shop hours run close to $ 100 here in northern Virginia; for the work performed the bill isn't particularly out of line, IMHO. Regrettably high, the parts prices appear close to dealer list prices, also.

Yet, the shop owes you a skid plate and should address the screw issue, IMHO.

If you need a stock skid plate (not recommended; a more robust aluminum one preferred for any off-road riding); I have one I'll GIVE you--totally serviceable, came off my Generation 1 bike (if I can FIND it in the junk box!).

If you must go into the carb again, you can find a good primer by Googling, "Care and feeding of the CVK40." vatrader01 posted an excellent tutorial on carb tuning on this website.

All this said, if your bike is sound, you've still got a treasure! A battery and tires are expendables you MUST buy, and if the technical work is competent, you've the equivalent of a barely broken-in new bike!

Now, about the doohickey . . . doomsday, "The sky is falling!" alarmists will tell you you MUST upgrade your doohickey with an aftermarket part, or your engine will turn into a pumpkin at the stroke of midnight. While the deisgn of your Generation 1 doohickey (idler shaft lever) is questionable, such peril may be exaggerated. Not a bad idea to upgrade, plenty of videos and tutorials, do-it-yourself wise.

Bottom line; time-and-place, you weren't particularly savagely hosed; yet you're due yur skid plate and a serviceable screw (if the latter's the dealer's responsibility).

May the bad taste disappear, allowing you to enjoy your delicious bike!

----------------------

Note on that stripped (I imagine you mean, "boogered screw head," vs. stripped threads) master cylinder reservoir screw: an IMPACT DRIVER is my tool of choice for removing these screws (wiithout boogering the screw heads; JIS bits help, too). GALVANIC CORROSION causes tenacious adhesion between the steel screws and the alloy casting, 'specially on a bike sitting as long as yours has. An impact driver applies torque only when the threads are relieved by a hammer blow, freeing stubborn fasteners (about $ 10 at Harbor Freight).

You might consider replacing the screws with Allen-head fasteners (same with the carb), to avoid future trauma.

Last edited by LoneRider; 03-27-2012 at 06:59 AM.
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 07:01 AM
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May the bad taste disappear, allowing you to enjoy your delicious bike!
Exactly.. And if Lone Rider doesn't come through with his free stock skid plate, I'll give you two of them.. I would get that screw for the reservoir though.. You want to keep the brake fluid dry and the cap needs to be sealed tight with the needed screws.

As far as the doohickey, of the 12 that I've been a part of replacing, I've seen 4 bad ones.. 2 broken doos, 2 broken springs.. If I bought another KLR it'd be done on the day I bought it, but it's because I've done them before and it's not a big deal.. I'd also replace the sub-frame bolts, but that's me.. It's your bike and you're free to do what you wish to your bike..

As mentioned, grab a manual, take your time, and if you run into ANY issues, stop in and ask for help and we'll do our best to get you through it.
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post #6 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Beardyman View Post
Thanks Lockjaw. I am very comfortable working on my cages but because it is my first bike I decided to play it safe and take it to a shop.
If you're comfortable working on a car, bikes are even easier because almost everything is easier to get to.

It is up to you whether a return trip to that shop is worthwhile to get what they screwed up resolved. I've hit several shops where it simply isn't worth my level of frustration to even walk back in the door.
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys for your input. LonerRider I may take you up on the skid plate offer just because the budget is a little tight right now so the farkles/hard parts will have to wait a bit. I will just buy a replacement screw for the reservoir but I am not sure if it will come off without a fight because the phillips head is stripped. @ LoneRider I am just an hour south of DC in fredericksburg if you are ever in the area maybe we can go for a ride and you could show me what the swiss army knife on wheels can do.
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 09:21 AM
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I will just buy a replacement screw for the reservoir but I am not sure if it will come off without a fight because the phillips head is stripped.
I'm pretty sure I have a couple of the stock screws sitting around (one should even be new.) PM me your mailing address, and I'll mail them to you.
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post #9 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beardyman View Post
Thank you guys for your input. LonerRider I may take you up on the skid plate offer just because the budget is a little tight right now so the farkles/hard parts will have to wait a bit. I will just buy a replacement screw for the reservoir but I am not sure if it will come off without a fight because the phillips head is stripped. @ LoneRider I am just an hour south of DC in fredericksburg if you are ever in the area maybe we can go for a ride and you could show me what the swiss army knife on wheels can do.

Welcome to the forum!

Replace the philips screws with stainless allens. Everybody strips those phillip heads, they're made of cheese...

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-27-2012, 10:00 AM
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Replace the philips screws with stainless allens. Everybody strips those phillip heads, they're made of cheese...
True enough, unless an IMPACT DRIVER, preferably with a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) vs. a SAE bit is used.

The SAE Phillips-head bit grips the JIS screw head a LITTLE better, if the point of the bit is dulled (for deeper penetration).

The culprit, fundamentally, appears to me to be Galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar screw and casting metals and its attendant adhesion.

IMPACT DRIVER to the rescue!

For an already-boogered screw head, a Dremel Moto-Tool cut-off wheel can cut a slot for a flat-blade screwdriver; or . . . worst case, the screw can be drilled out (I've had few miracle cures with Easy-Outs, myself).
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