front end coming off - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-11-2013, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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front end coming off

hey guys Im the new guy. I have a 2006 team green klr with 13,000 on it. I have always been a yam/Honda guy and this is my first kawa. I have had it for five years now. It's been a pretty good bike even though it was built in thialand. it was toobig for me so I lowered it. Still its pretty hard to navigate on the mountain trails around Estes park. It doesn't crawl so I got a different sprocket for it [14t]. just haven't put it on yet. Yesterday The front end got really lose. actually it's been lose since I dropped the fork tubes. I am kind of on the fence as to whether I am going to keep it, which is why I got on here today. I NEED SUPPORT TO STAY IN THE KLR GAMe!!!! So before I address the front end getting lose, I would like to hear from you. The old timers, your stories about the good, the positive, the battle stories, reliability, endurance, anything toencourage me at this point about my KLR. I know your out there, help me not give up....Zensniper..
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-11-2013, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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PPS Anybody got over 60,000 on thiers.
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post #3 of 7 Old 08-12-2013, 07:51 AM
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There are people with over 60k miles, and some of those are a result of travelling far abroad.

I don't know what you did, how you dropped the tubes, etc. so I can't tell you what's wrong specifically. I can tell you that by moving the forks up in the triple tree is going to affect the alignment of your suspension relative to the bike's center of mass and that's probably not going to be good.

One possible reason for the "looseness" is that the top wall of the fork tube provides rigidity since they are hollow (not upside down). If you move the clamps down the tube, the wall no longer is in position to resist the clamping force (at least the upper triple tree) and so the forks may compress / deform under clamping (like a damsel wearing a garder belt), esp if you tightened the bejeezus out of it without using a torque wrench.

I will say on my KLR the tubes get tweaked left / right after certain falls, but they can be straightened out no prob. The bike has never slid down the forks in my experience.

It's a big bike, and it takes practice to be able to do single track. I prefer to stay on ATV sized ruts or bigger unless I'm in open terrain. That being said I have also ridden through 4' high grass as well.

I got a great deal on mine because the PO was 6' tall and was too short. I'm 6'4" and find it nice.
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-12-2013, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big green machine 06 View Post

hey guys Im the new guy...

Yesterday The front end got really lose. actually it's been lose since I dropped the fork tubes. I am kind of on the fence as to whether I am going to keep it, which is why I got on here today. I NEED SUPPORT TO STAY IN THE KLR GAMe!!!! So before I address the front end getting lose...

Welcome.

Probably just need to adjust the headset bearings.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #5 of 7 Old 08-12-2013, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Big green almost there

Thanks for the support yesterday. you guys are great. Back to business. I followed the manual. Iloosened the lower bridge pin bolts. I got the handle bars out of the way. The stem nut was already loose. Jacked up bike and got front wheel off ground. Tightened the adjust nut with spanner wrench. So great, got play out of steering great. My question is this: There is a gap between the claw washer and the adjust nut, approx. 1/8 inch. it didn't look right so I hammered on the upper fork bridge with a wood block to try to seat the claw washer flush onto the adjust nut. no luck. So I gave up on it. Is there supposed to be a gap between claw washer and the adjust nut??? Thanks guys for your wisdom..
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-13-2013, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big green machine 06 View Post
Thanks for the support yesterday. you guys are great. Back to business. I followed the manual. Iloosened the lower bridge pin bolts. I got the handle bars out of the way. The stem nut was already loose. Jacked up bike and got front wheel off ground. Tightened the adjust nut with spanner wrench. So great, got play out of steering great. My question is this: There is a gap between the claw washer and the adjust nut, approx. 1/8 inch. it didn't look right so I hammered on the upper fork bridge with a wood block to try to seat the claw washer flush onto the adjust nut. no luck. So I gave up on it. Is there supposed to be a gap between claw washer and the adjust nut??? Thanks guys for your wisdom..
Welcome I have an 05 with 79000 clicks Handleing used to be a problem ,I lowered the triple tree or raised the forks 1 inch and jacked up the rear shock to full strength I have an eagle fork brace also with knobbies it handles fine in the dirt not great of course and on pavement it steers like a crotch rocket also no wind problems with the dropped front end . This may not work for everyone but it does for me .
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post #7 of 7 Old 08-13-2013, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big green machine 06 View Post
Thanks for the support yesterday. you guys are great. Back to business. I followed the manual. Iloosened the lower bridge pin bolts. I got the handle bars out of the way. The stem nut was already loose. Jacked up bike and got front wheel off ground. Tightened the adjust nut with spanner wrench. So great, got play out of steering great. My question is this: There is a gap between the claw washer and the adjust nut, approx. 1/8 inch. it didn't look right so I hammered on the upper fork bridge with a wood block to try to seat the claw washer flush onto the adjust nut. no luck. So I gave up on it. Is there supposed to be a gap between claw washer and the adjust nut??? Thanks guys for your wisdom..

Did you loosen the upper tripple clamp bolts?

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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