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I’m new to the KLR community!!!

2K views 9 replies 9 participants last post by  Hvymax 
#1 ·
Hello Everyone, I just recently joined the KLR community because I’m looking to buy my first KLR motorcycle. I don’t know which year to start off with because I’m on a very tight budget. I want to spend anywhere from $1500-$3000 for a decent KLR. Therefore, should I be looking at KLR’s 2009 and up for example? I don’t want to buy a KLR that will potentially give me problems due to a poor design or something with the motor. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
#2 ·
Welcome,

Maybe this will help, my "Gen1 vs. Gen2" KLR Post;


Basically, the Gen2 was modified to change the marketing focus towards "adventure riding" from "Dual Purpose".

Gen2 changes;
- better brakes
- better headlights
- more wind protection
- slightly larger forks
- increased wattage for aux. gear
- and a number of minor items like larger spokes, better chain adjusters, etc.

Early Gen2's unfortunately had a host of issues; bad rings, cylinder bores, deep hole issue, deteriorating rubber bits, wiring harness rub through. Mostly resolved by 2010.

- the weight also increased (17 - 24 lbs) and suspension travel decreased (from 9.1 front and rear to 7.9 front and 7.3 rear)

- in 2014.5 the suspension received a welcome increase in both spring rates and dampening....though it is still the 1980 tech budget stuff that Kawi used on these bikes since 1987.

Other than the supension stiffness upgrade, it's basically been BNG's for the past 5 years thought there's been a clutch change (possibly not for the better) and they've changed the forged alum brake lever to a stamped steel one along the way.....cheaper I guess.


Best? well that depends..... best stock KLR? I'd give the nod to the 2014.5+ bike. Basically if your use is pavement biased and/or you intend to keep the mods to a minimum then the Gen2 will appeal to you. ....If you ride more offroad and plan on changes, then the Gen1 starts to look better for the longer travel suspension, lighter weight, more robust bodywork and the ability to run with a completely dead battery.

For me and what I do, I prefer a well modified Gen1. I purchased a 577 mile 2000 model last year and would not trade this bike for a brand new 2016 KLR.

YMMV (and probably will)

Dave
 
#3 ·
Welcome! My preference would be for a Gen 1 (up to and including 2007) that is as close to original as possible -or- with lots of farkels and all the original parts in a box that come with the bike.

I like the Gen 1's because they are, in my mind, a slightly simpler version of the bike with better off-highway capabilities and manners. Also they're pretty much done depreciating. If they run and are in good condition $2,000 to $3,500 is about what they fetch. Low miles, pristine cosmetics and lots of quality farkels (that YOU want) can push the price up or down within this range. Of course, depending on where you live and the time of the year the price can also vary significantly.

The things that should have been done or to watch out for: 1.) Doohickey with the Torsion Spring. If no receipts? It hasn't been done IMHO. 2.) Leaking Oil Drain Plug. Some folks just have to crank down on the Oil Drain Plug. The result is often a cracked Engine Case. It will be seeping oil from the Oil Drain Plug area. 3.) Have the Camshaft Bearings checked (excessive Exhaust Valve clearance is a dead give-a-way) before closing the deal. Running these bikes low on oil is an all to common error made by thoughtless and/or inattentive owners. It can well be the reason they are now selling their KLR. The result of running the engine low on oil is serious damage the Camshaft Bearings and this is a VERY expensive repair; particularly when compared to the value of the bike as a whole. This applies to all years of KLR's.

Bear in mind that these are incredibly rugged bikes. So don't let the list that we come up with scare you off. All bikes have their weak points. Knowing them and avoiding them is fairly easy with a KLR. With minimal care, a KLR will last you well into six figure mileage with simply routine maintenance.
 
#4 ·
I have a Gen 1 and a Gen 2. I just bought the Gen 2 because it was a deal I couldn't pass up. The Gen 1 is my daily driver. The Gen 2 is getting a carb clean, jet kit, and the Vance and Hines slip on that the previous owner "never got around to putting on." I like them both. The Gen 2 has more parts on the front end fairing to take apart when you're working on it. This Gen 2 might turn into my daily driver this weekend when I finish putting it back together. Or.......I might sell it to you for $3k. It has 4k miles on it and a new set of rubber.......
 
#5 ·
The posts above gives the OP everything he needs to decide. I owned a 2006 (Gen 1) and now a 2017.

For reference OP. The 2006 had 18,000 miles and was stock except for the Doo Hickey. Ran like a champ all day everyday. Sold it to nice kid for $2750...and bought my 2017 the same day.

My opinion? Get both...

I'm more street and two-lane fire roads...Gen II for me. I'd snatch up a Gen I again in a heartbeat though....

Good luck, great bikes, and lots of good folk here.
 
#6 ·
No spark

Hey Guys

I am new on the forum I have bought a KLR 650 (1998) non starter basically a wreck.....I have changed all the wiring harness and there is still no spark?? I have taken the starter motor cover off and i found the left overs of a broken coil/spring (same size as a spring from a biro/pen) it is not the doohickey spring? any idea where this spring may of come from ... thanks
 
#9 ·
Hey Guys

I am new on the forum I have bought a KLR 650 (1998) non starter basically a wreck.....I have changed all the wiring harness and there is still no spark?? I have taken the starter motor cover off and i found the left overs of a broken coil/spring (same size as a spring from a biro/pen) it is not the doohickey spring? any idea where this spring may of come from ... thanks

Post this as a new topic and you'll get more help than you will on this thread.
 
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