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post #11 of 16 Old 09-05-2019, 04:05 PM
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A float bowl overflow stand pipe is like the oveflow pipe in a toilet tank. It lets out any excess before it overflows at a place it should not be, That would be UP thru the jets and down the intake ports of the KLR engine. Or on to the floor of your house, instead of down into the basin of the toilet.

On a single posting quote, I just space the sentences or paragraphs and bold my responses. I'm not very well versed in 'puter, either.

And then add other comments below like you did. We'll all get the message either way.

pdwestman
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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #12 of 16 Old 09-05-2019, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Tom, checking the float bowl that way is brilliant.

pdwestman, thanks for the info about the overflow stand pipe. I guess you guys are talking about making your own. You'd drill a hole in the bottom of the float bowl and cut threads in it. Then you'd cut a little piece of pipe of the perfect diameter to the proper length and cut threads on that. That sounds like a delicate operation.

So then when you forgot to turn off the petcock and if the float bowl valve failed your entire gas tank would dump onto the ground instead of running through the carburetor into the engine, right?
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post #13 of 16 Old 09-05-2019, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skook View Post
...Tom, checking the float bowl that way is brilliant...
Like so many things, this is an ancient method. It has to go back over 100 years; there is very little that is new under the sun

SU carburetors were invented 115 years ago and were known as Constant Depression carburetors. CDs are also known as Constant Vacuum (depression being another word for vacuum) and Constant Velocity. CV is the vernacular currently most used and is what the Keihin CV carbs are called.

A very long time ago, before Al Gore had invented the internet and global warming (the better to give us a means to argue and something to argue about), even before we walked on the moon, I was introduced to SU carburetors. MGAs, Spridgets, and Healey 100/4s are neat cars, but dang if they aren't hard to tune when the carbs are worn out. I soon called them Constantly Depressing carburetors based on trying to get them cars to run while I was in High School. They usually leaked both fuel and air and, later in life, I spent hours on a small lathe making bushings and glands for butterfly shafts and hours on a Bridgeport line reaming those bushings so that they at least didn't leak air. The result:


Real old-timers told stories of attaching a bit of rubber fuel line to the SU bowls and slowly lowering the hose until they found the fluid level in the float bowl. Thank goodness I have always lived in the era of clear hoses and some old-timer figured out you could use it that way.

So I can't take credit.

The overflow pipe should not be hard to do. These carbs used to have them and it is all but there. The boss that it was mounted in is still there and the nipple that the gas is to run out of is still there and still has a hole in it. It seems that all that is required is to drill a hole of the same size as the ID of the overflow tube (probably 9/32") through to the factory drain hole, then counterbore it 1/8" and install an overflow tube, cementing it in place. JB weld should do.

I think I will have time tomorrow.

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #14 of 16 Old 09-05-2019, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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That sounds easier than how I was thinking. There’s really no point in threading it.
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post #15 of 16 Old 09-07-2019, 12:09 AM
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When adjusting the knurled brass pilot screw with the carburetor in place it is difficult to tell if you have moved it 1/16 or 1/8 or 1/4 or 1/2 turns. If you cut notches on the side of the knob at the quarter points, it is much easier to tell how far you have adjusted it.
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post #16 of 16 Old 09-07-2019, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tip, GoMotor. I set the screw before I put it on the bike. I put a scratch on the top as a reference. Now that it's on the bike it's hard to tell how far I've turned it. I might put a few dabs of paint at the 1/4 points. It would be hard to notch it now, and I don't want to take it back off if I don't have to.

I haven't dialed it in yet. I'm leaving on a 4 day backpacking trip in a few minutes. I'll have to wait until I get back to try to get it where I want it.
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