Not new to forum but, just re-upped for a year. Been riding bikes since getting my new Honda 90cc. in '64'. Pretty much ran the gamut of bikes, rice burners to Harleys to Beemers, Huskies Bsa 441 Victor, Suzuki ,Yamaha ,...blah ....blah . Find my self with a 1985 Goldwing (make offer seriously for sale needs work but basically solid ,30,000 mi , and all 4 Manuals ) LTD and a 2006 KLR that my son slid under a caddy SUV lunching radiator , that has been sitting in the garage unstarted since 2013 due to some serious health issues.
Been on here before looking for advice on to breathe some new life into the KLR and then my health took a dump again. Thanks to those who responded you have my sincere thanks (see Title CRC ). Hope fully this time for sure!
It's a stock 06 with a touch over 13,000 on it. I'm sure the carb is gunked up beyond belief and the battery has suffered a cold hard death.I have about 6 or 7 hundred $ of goodies suspension ,chain & sprockets , graphics, hanging on the bars in bags that I thought would prudent to buy before my last set back. Looking for a solid plan to getting started on this project . Checked out carb rebuild vids and think I'm up to the challenge but would welcome any relevant input.

Hi. I'm also new here and am in a similar situation, but an '08 with 11,000 miles. My carb was terrible, but the clean and rebuild was not nearly as hard as I thought. Check out the series of videos by superdoo on youtube. Those were more helpful than anything else.

My one piece of advice--Be thorough! I had to pull mine off and do it again, and now I realize my float height is off so I'm going to take it off again to adjust that. It's not fun taking the carb off, but I'm getting used to it.

But, totally doable. Sorta fun almost. Good Luck.

Did you unscrew the throttle cable Bracket from the RH side to dis-engage the cables? Then unscrew the plastic 'choke' ferrel with a crow-foot wrench?

Did you then remove the air duct & manifold Clamps completely?

Then use your Left Thumb to Push the air duct towards the LEFT & then rotate the Rear of the carb out to the Right with your right hand?

Ah, the plastic "choke" ferrel. That is the bane of my existence. I was just out removing the carb and I stopped at that point. I just couldn't face it. I tried many things, but not a crow's foot wrench. What is that thing, a 10 mm? It looks like I might be off to Harbor Freight again. Thank you.

I remove the clamps completely.

I think I'm doing the maneuver with the left thumb pushing the air duct down and left and rotating the carb out to the right. There's still a bit of wrestling it seems. I will watch what I'm doing carefully this time.

I checked my fuel level height using the cool "tubing held to the side of the carb" method yesterday and it was too high by about 3 mm. The engine was warm. I checked it today with a cold engine and it seemed a few mm below the correct level. I'm still having trouble starting it and the choke does nothing but makes it harder to start, so that's why I'm looking at the float bowl level. The pilot screw adjustment seemed to do nothing. The float height looked good when I physically measured it, but the fuel level was too high yesterday.

On the plus side, I'm learning more about the carburetor system. Thanks for the help. It's more valuable then videos or manuals.

I can recommend the crow's foot for the difficult "choke" cable-to-carburetor ferrule. $9.99 at Harbor Freight for a metric set. The ferrule is 12 mm. It's much easier then anything else I tried. I payed attention to how I pried it off the ducts and it came off easily. I hope it goes on as easily.

Sorry to hijack your introduction thread, jpneil. Thanks again, pdwestman.

I'm sure that jpniel & all other readers will also appreciate the tips.

I read an article on one of the old engine blogs about using Pine-Sol as a carb cleaner.
Has anyone here tried Pine-Sol? its inexpensive and supposedly works well.

Terry

Pine-Sol works great to remove the fuel residue, in carb, fuel tank & petcock (safe for the fuel screens, but can be hard on the zinc body if soaked too long.). But it also removes the anti-rust plating on steel parts.
The permanent fuel & float bowl 'plastic nipples' on the later Gen2 carbs are Berryman Chem-Dip safe. And Chem-dip does not remove the anti-rust plating on steels.

I used Pine-Sol. It worked well but my carb now has a matte finish and the idle screw on the side has a little rust now. Nothing got ruined, I guess, but I didn’t know about leaving it in too long. I left it in 24 hours.

Thanks for all 8 replies glad I didn’t just dig in . Guess I’m off to harbor fgt . I’m 68 and hate to admit that I have no idea what a “crow foot wrench” is but am about to find out. Also kudos for the coherent plan on R&R for the carb . I think I’ll skip the pine-sol fix and search out the “ Berrymans” (?) and a can of good ole fashion Napa aerosol carb cleaner Between the posted vids and you lads advice I’m prolly 50/50 % on getting through this.hhh!
Ought to go back to the old Harley’s where a hammer,crescent wrench bailing wire and vice grips was a full tool kit.
Thank again.