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7K views 58 replies 8 participants last post by  ironranger88 
#1 ·
Been riding for 20+ years, but don't recently got an "adventure" bike. 1990 KLR Tengai... Interesting looking, but it's missing some things. Motor is blown too.. Going to need some help getting it put back together!
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum, ironranger88.

Go to the 'TOOLS' tool bar and 'User CP'. Include your city & nation in your personal profile. This info will help us help you for parts access.

First thing to acquire for the project is a Clymer repair manual or possibly a used copy of the OEM Kawasaki Tengai manual, part #99924-1113-01 or -02 or -03. I don't know if there were any more than 3 years production of the Tengai for any country.
 
#18 ·
The leaning RH valve cover bolt in this pic and its associated mounting tower is also of concern. You will need several pics sent to Engine Dynamics for them to access the damage after you get it disassembled.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I edited your original Post #5 to include the picture. Do you have a picture of the entire bike itself? Add it the same way and we can fix the post to show it.

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#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
Sweet! Well, here are some spam picks. She needs some serious love. Pulled it apart a little ways and it looks like the exhaust cam is pretty wounded, Timing belt is snapped too. Didnt see to much damage otherwise... hoping I can get away with just finding an exhaust cam and timing chain. I'll know more when I pull the left side off (once my service manual comes in)



 
#15 · (Edited)
You will likely need more than an exhaust cam. There shouldn't be a gap between the head and the cam cap. These cam journals may be hammered pretty badly. If they are they will never be able to hold oil pressure again.



The cam chain is pretty tough on these things and seldom breaks in service. If it has then there may be bent valves as the engine is an interference design. That would show as a huge amount of valve lash (gap between the heel of the cam and the surface of the shim) due to the valve stem being bent from the valve hitting the piston, preventing the valve from closing.

There is an outfit in Petaluma, CA, Engine Dynamics, that may be able to fix the head for less than the cost of a replacement head. Replacements are getting quite spendy and a bit hard to come by due to the high incidence of head explody events on the 2008/2009 bikes.

The good news is that any head you might find, 1987 to the present, would work as a replacement. You'd need a blocking plate on the AIS port for a 2008+ head, but that is trivial.

Best to get the cover off of the head and see what's what in there and assess the whole situation.
 
#16 ·
Tom must of stayed up way later than intended. :)

I'll suggest that if the valve cover has not been completely removed yet and you turning the engine over and not seeing the EX Cam turn, it may be because of a Sheared locator pin on the EX sprocket to cam interface. Not necessarily a broken cam chain.

With the heat discoloration seen on cam lobe & the gap of the RH bearing, the most likely suspect cause for damage is Severe Lack of oil level in the crankcase.
When the bearing got worn soo baadly due to lack of oil supply, the centrifugal operated automatic compression release mechanisim snagged the head and valve cover and that sheared the locator pin as well as exploded the KACR.

But it appears that the main casting of the cylinder head is not broken, so as Tom said Engine Dynamics should be able to repair the damaged bearings a Whole Lot cheaper than purchasing a new head. Click on this, ENGINE DYNAMICS
 
#17 ·
Yes, Triumph have announced the new Tiger 900 and I was up late (or early, depending on your point of view) having a chat about that. The forum is UK based and it's most active during UK daylight. At least they speak English, unlike the German KLR forum.
 
#19 ·
Well alrighty then! Thanks guys.. I'm off to work for a week (long work trips) and have a couple of days off after that. So I put it up for sale to see if anyone has any interest (who knows what they're doing). $800 obo if anyone in Phoenix Is interested. Haha
I am curious to see is it is indeed that bolt though.
Bolts are easy to replace. I have a local guy that can do most of that repair work and Machining, but I'm still at a lokk about the thing on the end of the cam. What is that called? (The exploded part on the exhaust cam)

Thanks again for the responses
 
#20 ·
K.A.C.R. , Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release.

A cylinder de-compression device which allows the use of smaller lighter, battery / starter motor / gears. Only decompresses at less than normal idle speeds.
 
#22 ·
So, Got the engine pulled. Cams are pretty well shot. Looks like oil neglect to the top end. Lots of wear and grind marks. Also, Are the Exhaust valves stuck open? It wouldn't suprise me with the amount of debree up there from the KACR Exploded. Lucky everything else looks great! The left side doesn't appear to have shards of teeth or timing belt anywhere. So thats good! The cylinder and piston look perfect.

Now I just need a top end and new timing chain. Ordered a puller today to see further into the left side and check the "doohickey" although I think it's already been replaced.

Any Ideas on how to double check the oil pressure?
 

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#23 · (Edited)
Again, I'll suggest that the Ex camshaft sprocket to camshaft Alignment pin is sheared, which allowed the valves to contact the piston. There is probably NO Reason to replace the cam chain.

And I'll again suggest that your bikes problem began with Too Little volume of oil in the sump to keep the hollow cam shaft FILLED to that very last bearing.
Once the engine is running again, one can loosen the top banjo bolt fitting to confirm oil flow to the cylinder head components.
 
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#24 ·
em that I said the KLR has an interference engine? The valves are stuck open because they are bent. When everything went pear-shaped the valves were open and the piston hit them. They, and your valve guides, are trashed.

You can disassemble the oil pump and look for anything amiss, but the KLR seldom has any sort of oil pump failure. However, once the oil level gets low enough to where the pick-up tube sucks air the head has 9 seconds to live. Looks like yours was run for 30.
 
#26 ·
The factory oil test port is straight down below the oil filter. But it really won't tell you much about your 'Oiling System'. After a few simple modifications one can tell a little bit more about it.

Here is a link to a few pics to have a peek, https://www.klrforum.com/255073-post100.html
 
#28 ·
I get by on forums. When I'm in Germany they switch to English after I've said two words.
 
#31 ·
Yep, Yepyepyep.... I got you.

Since I bought this as is, I understand it was probably low on oil and someone ran it. I only pulled out 1 Qt of oil from the engine before I pulled it. Since I think it takes at least 2.5qts, I'd say that's pretty low and I'm lucky the piston didn't go too.
I don't know what a "cam shaft alignment pin" is, but Whatever happened, this head will be replaced. I don't plan on running any of my bikes low on oil.. So I don't see any future problems. Again, YES the timing "cam" chain will need to be replaced because it's sheared in half. No need to get aggressive man...

Keeping an eye out for an affordable Head/Cam/valve cover set up if anyone knows where I can get one!? I've got a line on one for $250, but that seems steep?
Other parts list include ALL THE TENGAI PLASTIC! haha....

Thanks again everyone! (including from Germany)
 
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