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post #1 of 11 Old 02-16-2020, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2020
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Introduction

Hello,

My name is Mark and live in the East Bay area and am looking to purchase a 2008 KLR 650 from family friend of mine. He has 2 650 KLR's and is selling his wife's bike. The bike has 21,000 miles on it and is stock except for the 701 bore upgrade kit he had done professionally by a shop around the Sacramento area I believe, and cost around $1,500. It also had the head redone with porting and polishing. The doohickey upgrade has not been done. I can purchase the bike for $2,500. Does this sound like a good deal meaning am I walking into issues that he / and I may not know of due to the upgrade? He says the bike has much more power than his stock 650 KLR.

Thank you,

Mark

Last edited by 59panman; 02-16-2020 at 01:49 PM. Reason: corrections
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post #2 of 11 Old 02-16-2020, 07:51 PM
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Welcome to the forum, 59panman.

The big bore kit was probably done to eliminate excessive oil consumption which plagued a large number of 2008 & 2009 units. They may not have actually gone that Large. The 685cc kit was the most common to use because of price tag, but if someone paid for porting, they may have went 'Whole Hog'.

Really surprised that the Doo & Torsion Spring was not done at the same time. Would have been & still would be sad to waste that rebuild money because of failure of a $5 spring.

$2500 sounds great to me! But do (or have done) the EM Doo & Torsion Spring up-grade ASAP!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 11 Old 02-16-2020, 10:23 PM
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Welcome.

A couple things.......I paid $3500 last year for my 2017 with 1490 miles from a guy in Hate Ashbury in near new shape. There are deals out there.

I've owned many bikes over the years and I can honestly say that if you want your bike trouble free and reliable with a long service life... KEEP IT BONE STOCK.........or at bare minimum lightly modified. Manufacturers have to balance being DOT/EPA/CARB compliant with performance, reliability, dependability, service life, ease of starting and good engine mannerisms . They have to balance all these aspects when designing a powerplant. When an aspect is changed(out of design) ......it throws this out of balance and usually what suffers is engine dependability, reliability and service life.. ... especially when one changes its performance aspect. I'm sure Someone will come along and say they've modified this or that and they've got a zillion miles on the engine with no problems.....and I won't doubt that. But in the bigger picture modified performance engines are less reliable and dependable than stock engines. Period ......and for that reason I would stay away from a big bore kit modified engine with 21000 miles.

But on the other hand if you're looking for a kick but High Performance Engine out of your KLR and not worried about going a 100,000 miles.... for the long run... this may be for you.

Good luck with your purchase and keep an eye out for good deals!
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-16-2020, 10:55 PM
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Welcome to the site.
Sounds like a good price on a bike that already has solved one of the known issues for the 2008 modle. Buy the bike and enjoy it. I do not know anyone that has regretted buying a KLR. I do know several people that regretted selling one though.
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-16-2020, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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pdwestman


Thank you for the reply. I'm going to find out where he had the work done on the engine. I did some homework on the doohickie upgrade plan to install that myself as I did ask him that question and he said it was not.

What about the thermostat upgrade/ Thermo Bob? Is this that mod really necessary? I am trying not to put excessive amounts of money into this machine. I do want to install the steel foot pegs. I too am shorter side with a 30" inseam and hope that I can at least get 1 foot on the ground comfortably.''

I will report back with the outfit that he used.

Thanks again.
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-16-2020, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your replies!

Will report back.
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-17-2020, 10:56 AM
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If most of a KLRs rides are 20 minutes or less, a Thermo-Bob will help get the engine & is engine OIL up to a reasonable operating temp quicker. So the engine oil will lubricate better and reduce the moisture build up (milky oil) that makes acids in the oil which is very bad for the metal parts.

The cooler your areas normal ambient riding temps the more important proper warming becomes.

If most of a KLRs rides are 30 minutes or more, without turning the engine off and with warmer ambient air temps, the less important the Thermo-Bob becomes.

But I do Highly Endorse the Thremo-Bob for all seasons and ambient air temps. It was invented in Scottsdale AZ by the way.
It is better to have an engine operating at near mid-gauge (195-205F) consistently, than at one quarter gauge (160-170F) on the highway and only getting to mid-gauge at long traffic lights. (Fan comes on at about 5/8th gauge 210-220F)

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-17-2020, 12:29 PM
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i have loaner tools if you need. get your doo from eaglemike and get a new flywheel bolt. you will need a torque wrench that goes to 150 ft lbs(final torque is 144ft/lbs) i recommend torsion spring mod also. since its a 08 it might have deep hole syndrome. tell mike when u purchase, he will include a spacer for one of gears. by the way welcome😎
wait on gasket, many times it will be undamaged
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-17-2020, 12:32 PM
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when your ready for the doo, i have found a 4 part vid series which really which helps
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-17-2020, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick9611 View Post
when your ready for the doo, i have found a 4 part vid series which really which helps
Maybe them 4 are part of Toms in-depth expos-ay? https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20th...bout/doohickey

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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