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post #1 of 4 Old 09-11-2011, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
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For the veteran KLR guysngals

I'm looking at buying an older KLR - 1964 with 15000 miles on it and generally usable condition. Asking price is $1500.
Should I just hold out for a post 1996.5 model with the clutch and crank shaft improvements?
Would like your general opinions on this. Been out of bikes for 5 years and even though I live in a remote Alaska village with only 7 miles of dirt roads I can't stand not having a bike any more. I'm on a real tight budget but might be able to hold off until I could find a reasonably priced 97+ model year.
I have owned 4 KLRS in the past and one BMW R1200GS. The KLRS were more fun if not as fast.
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post #2 of 4 Old 09-11-2011, 07:58 PM
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Location: Virginia
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Hi Ron60, welcome to the forum. I believe you've got a typo going on in your original post....prolly referrin' to a '94 model?

I don't know anyone with a pre-96 that regrets buying it. There were some changes with the 1996 model:

Mid-1996: Changed valve cover, added bracket to hold cam chain bumper; changed crank to heavier unit; improved clutch basket with more clutch plates; changed countershaft sprocket retainer from slotted plate to large nut; changed second and third gear ratios. Kickstarter no longer fits with new clutch basket. At least some early 1996 models had the matte black engine cases and covers rather than the later hammer-finisehd dark gray coloration found in the 1997 and later models. New left balancer weight/sprocket begins with engine #KLE650AE032206.
(?) Service manual indicates higher charging system output; only part number change is the rotor. The new power rating is 17 A, 14 V (238 W) @ 7000 rpm; the earlier one was 14 A, 14 V (196 W) @ 8000 rpm (above redline).

Your call. Don't know off hand of any handicaps that would come with owning a '94 model. If you decide or need to rebuild the top end, you'd probably need to source a 1996 or later cylinder, as the older models had thinner cylinders that don't lend themselves to over boring much.

As far as the value of the bike, and the asking price for it, that bike will part out for about that money in the mid-Atlantic region. YMMV.

“many a trip continues long after movement in time and space have ceased”- Steinbeck, [I]"Travels with Charlie"

[FONT="Century Gothic"][I]Sometimes your only available transportation is a leap of faith[/I] [/FONT]
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post #3 of 4 Old 09-11-2011, 09:13 PM
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Location: L.A. Native
Posts: 517
And don't forget torquing the stator bolt on 94-95 is only 85-90 ft lbs or it won't start. Thanks Eagle Mike for bailing me out on that one.

94 KLR,tank guards,sw motech centerstand,Doo done, african switch,mirror dampners, powerpegz, twisted throttle fuses, aluminum skidplate, Bigcee shark disc and jug holder and subframe upgrade, progrip grips,maier handguards/brushguards, avon distanzias,fmf q4 exhaust, headlight guard, handlebar risers, billet rear brake reservoir bracket and guard, dual star shifter,garmin 2820 gps, tmod,disc cover, pcv mod,corbin flat
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post #4 of 4 Old 09-12-2011, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 2
Post 96 retros

Ooops, Sorry about the 1964 flub, that'l tell ya where this old mind spends a lot of it's time.
Are any of the "upgrades" in the post 96 models retro fitable to the 94 and or worth the effort. I love tinkering on bikes in the winter months. Got lots of those and long dark days up here. Lots of parts on eBay -
Never thought about the tourque value on the older bikes. The one I'm looking at has the doohicky parts but have they not been installed yet. Thats a real good reminder, thanks!
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