2012 Set Up so far - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-25-2012, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2012
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2012 Set Up so far

OK, so I'm trying to set up my new KLR and here's what I got going on so far...
After looking around a whole lot at stuff, I decided on the PD Nerf kit for in case I dump it over and I like the idea of stretching my legs on the long hauls with the highway pegs and will probably add Nerf side bags of some kind for extra storage.
I also went with the HT center stand right off to make servicing easier.
For the front I'm adding the fork brace and switching to proggressive springs as they made a huge difference on my other bike.
Other changes will be lowering slightly so I'm not paddling on my tip toes and adding a 16t front sprocket as I have to do a lot of highway miles to get where I want to go and want to relax the motor some. I've done some test rides and think the higher gearing will feel and ride better for me all around, and as far as lowering I don't plan to boulder hop or jump logs. The stock height is straining my lower back and hips too much at stops and starts. I need to able to get on her and get going a little easier. Think what you want about that comment...
Am still contemplating two things with the engine, the doohicky mod, and maybe the thermostat bypass mod. The bike is new and the first cruise will be about 3,000 miles after some good break in. I have noted the heat is all over the place, very inconsistent...really cool driving, cold in cool weather, hot and cold in traffic.
As far as the doohiky thing, I'd like to at least replce the spring and am under the impression I can do that under the outer cover, but do I still need to pull the flywheel mag?
So far I am having fun just getting used to the bike, breaking things in, and chasing loosey goosey fasteners with thread locker My rear rack tried to get away not to mention a few other things.
Little Steve
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post #2 of 10 Old 05-25-2012, 11:58 PM
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Change the fork oil while doing springs, made a big difference in my 09. My temp does about the same as yours under similar conditions. Ride Safe
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-26-2012, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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From what I've read the fork oil in there is weird. What should I put in there for a replacement, and more important, I don't know how to measure it, or how much to put in etc...but I want to and am going to a cycle shop in the morning and can pick up some fork oil. 10 or 15wt? I am a light rider at 145 lbs, but will be adding luggage weight. So maybe a preload spacer length suggestion too?
That's why I posted all this, and wont be doing anything for about a week until all my stuff shows up.
I am lowering the rear 1-1/2" and intend to lower the front 1" and chop off the kick stand and re-weld a better foot on it.
Thanks,
Steve
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-26-2012, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleSteve View Post
From what I've read the fork oil in there is weird. What should I put in there for a replacement, and more important, I don't know how to measure it, or how much to put in etc...but I want to and am going to a cycle shop in the morning and can pick up some fork oil. 10 or 15wt? I am a light rider at 145 lbs, but will be adding luggage weight. So maybe a preload spacer length suggestion too?
That's why I posted all this, and wont be doing anything for about a week until all my stuff shows up.
I am lowering the rear 1-1/2" and intend to lower the front 1" and chop off the kick stand and re-weld a better foot on it.
Thanks,
Steve
Used 10wt in mine some prefer 7.5wt, I like the extra stiffness, about the same weight as you. Set my level at 5.25 inches from top of tube with spring & spacer removed and fork tube collapsed completely.
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-26-2012, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleSteve View Post
I am lowering the rear 1-1/2" and intend to lower the front 1" and chop off the kick stand and re-weld a better foot on it.
Thanks,
Steve
Very good thinking on the kickstand unless you want the thing to stand almost vertical on the stock kickstand after you lower it.

Make sure your new kickstand foot clears the swingarm because that can be a problem with the KLR's sloppy kickstand pivot bolt.



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post #6 of 10 Old 05-26-2012, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, yeah I will be making sure everything clears and works well. I'd probably shorten the side stand even if I didn't lower the bike. It seems too high stock, and I hate the sharp edged foot. I'm gonna go with a flat bottomed foot print, but with a really nice shape that should help with soft ground and hot asphalt parking. On the other hand I have been parking a 750lb loaded cruiser on dirt etc for the last couple years so it is ingrained in my psyche to be careful where I stop and or put the bike to rest. Also, I want to get the center stand on first, then start with the rest of the mods. I do a lot of metal fabrication so no worries cutting the side stand at a nice angle and remembering we can always make it shorter but not so easy to make longer
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post #7 of 10 Old 05-26-2012, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Planalp!
I read your comments on the PD Nerf bars crossover being close to the Voltage regulator and checked that out, looked at the regulator. There's at least a 1/2" that regulator can be spaced aft and that's what I am gonna do, make platic spacers to move it a bit back so the bar could bend some in a spill and hopefully not break the plug in the bottom of the regulator, or maybe make up a flex mount with rubber shock mounts?
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post #8 of 10 Old 05-26-2012, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by LittleSteve View Post
Hey Planalp!
I read your comments on the PD Nerf bars crossover being close to the Voltage regulator and checked that out, looked at the regulator. There's at least a 1/2" that regulator can be spaced aft and that's what I am gonna do, make platic spacers to move it a bit back so the bar could bend some in a spill and hopefully not break the plug in the bottom of the regulator, or maybe make up a flex mount with rubber shock mounts?
Hey! Excellent idea! I never thought of that. If you can, get back and let us know how you did it and how it worked out. Definitely something I'll be looking at doing. Good thinking! I've heard the VR is a pretty pricey item if you have to buy a new one.



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post #9 of 10 Old 05-26-2012, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Will do. I'll try and remember to take a couple pictures and any other ideas that come up. Replacing the VR is one thing; having it broken and not being able to jury rig it in the backcountry more of a problem. I can see there is a some slack in the wires so that it could possably be turned, moved, relocated some maybe. Think I'll review the install pictures and pull the side plastic off today so I am more ready when all my parts are ready to install.
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post #10 of 10 Old 05-26-2012, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by LittleSteve View Post
Will do. I'll try and remember to take a couple pictures and any other ideas that come up. Replacing the VR is one thing; having it broken and not being able to jury rig it in the backcountry more of a problem. I can see there is a some slack in the wires so that it could possably be turned, moved, relocated some maybe. Think I'll review the install pictures and pull the side plastic off today so I am more ready when all my parts are ready to install.
Good luck and thanks for being the guineau pig!



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