Question about lowering links.
As I get older and less agile, the idea of being able to get both feet on the ground is sounding better and better. I've heard lowering links can give you up to two inches. Were does that come from? Do lose suspension travel, ground clearance? I'm curious and I'm thinking of getting a rebuilt shock from sasquatch and I don't want to run into any fitment issues.
Sent from my phone...there will be spelling errors!
So you have three basic options to lower the KLR.
I is possible to have a custom rear shock make to lower the rear. The link change makes the rear a bit softer, and you lose ground clearance and rear suspension travel. Moving the front forks up into the triple trees (1 to 2 inches range, mine is 1 inch up with 1.5 inch lowering links) just maintains the same fork angle with the lowered rear so as not to change the handling. Obviously, the lower seat by itself will not impact ground clearance.
Bottom line is, if you need to lower, the custom lowered shock is the most expensive but superior, the links are reasonably cheap and easy to change back to stock. When you need a lower bike, you need it in a bad way. Sometimes younger riders will lower with links, and later, after getting more confidence in their skills, will revert back to stock. Any decent off road bike with 10 or more inches under the skid plate is going to be 35 inch plus seat height, maybe ok for a 250 lb bike, a bit of a sticky wicket for a 400+ lb. bike.
hey,,agree mostly with stubby
most call them- dog bones-for $50-$90 range depends brand/store..
they are bottom either side ,of rear shock.. eazy swap them out to gain (up to about 2''/litte more or less) lowered....yes -think it helps to have firmer/stiffer shock when lowering...
but guestion;;; if move rear down, would front not point up..so don't you have to lower all if lowering , a lot (small amount doesn't matter,,but more you lower ,,the bigger the differance)...as i have lowered rear ,but my shock is extended and set on the firmest setting..so is only lowered a small amount...
so not sure about moveing triple-trees up forks (thought that mainly was for agility),,,seems to me ,, would need to move down= to even all out ????
ANY ONE = can you tell me why/how that works(raiseing/lowering triple tree).. a simple explanition would be great....
As long as we are on the subject, can some one post a measurement of a "stock" dog bone link? ( Bolt - to - bolt )
Also stock setting of front forks. ( A pix of top area please )
The reason is, I just bought my, slightly used KLR, and the forks protrude up about about 1 ¼”
… see pix
The links on my bike measure 5 5/16”s bolt – to – bolt.
I’m wondering if original owner lowered this bike.
sorry,,cant post pic,,
just cant figure stupid thing out,, or iam the stupid one...
have two klr one is raise 1'' ,,bolt to bolt is 4 3/4'' ,,, other is lowered,, forget how much,,but bolt to bolt is 5 1/2''... so hope this helps.?.?.?.?.?
as far as top forks..... my raised one, fork is level with triple tree.... lowered one forks are just under t trees = less then 1/2''.. would say 1/4 showing/down below t trees .....
again though/was told moveing fork UP help with agility..move DOWN more stability...
whould say stock bones should be ,close to or ,less then 5'' bolt to bolt = is my guess!!???
as is one gen 1's anyway...fyi..!!!!
You can get lowering links at a reasonable price form Burkhart at http://burkhartcycle.com/store/
I juat lowered mine 1-1/2" rear and 1" front and can now get the balss of my feet on the ground. I wouldn't go any lower as ground clearance is seriously compromised. I have to make due as the tallness was killing my hips. I venture to suggest I will raise it back up in future when I am more used to the bike. The chain needs to be re-adjusted as it tightens considerably. I wouldn't even consider lowering it if I were considering anything technically challenging. Glad I added the Skid plate though...
I suspected the previous owner had it lowered. He traded in the bike with just 389 miles on it. Must have been too tall for him.
Oh' Well! his loss, my gain.
I can get my feet flat footed and "back paddle" if ground isn't too rough, or up hill.
The bike's not given to a lot of confidence when in deep woods and trying to turn around on rough ground.
Here in N.H. the abandoned roads can get washed out quite bad.
Guess if I go deep, I'll just keep using my Honda NX250. I've put her through some bad going in the past.
gald to help...
ya klr is handfull/workout when really pushed into deep off-road..
as i like my klrs,,,i do want a older 400/450 klx or back to honda xr's ,,just to run up those small rabbit trails , hit some good ,big jumps (with out bottoming out) where klr seems to have a hard time..
good luck ,,enjoy ya ride !!
Going to remove my Kouba Lowering links soon.
I purchased and installed them only a week or so after taking my 2011 off of the showroom floor. What I have learned about reduced rear shock travel has me wanting to return the bike to stock including raising the forks back to the original position. Having only 3/4 of my boot on the ground while stopped is not ideal to my way of thinking....maybe its time to search for a used and lower seat?
I suppose I ought to get one of the aftermarket springs as I weigh 209lbs without helmet, boots etc.
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