Synthetic Oil Change - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-22-2012, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Synthetic Oil Change

I came onto this website some time after putting some miles on my 2012 KLR 650. After reading many posts I noticed that people here change the oil during the break-in period at short-miles-intervals.

When I picked up my bike from the dealer I was told to bring it back in for the first oil change after 600 miles. I have since put on 1,500 miles and I am now going to change my own oil. So my questions are as follows:

1. What is the benefit of changing the oil on the first 100 miles (as I have read in some of these posts)? I personally think that 100 miles is just too soon to give the bike a chance to "break-in". I could be wrong....

2. Is it a good time (or too late) to change to a synthetic oil.

3. Is it worth it to go synthetic? Cost vs. advantage.

4. Will I need a "Synthetic Oil Filter" (metal/SS) or is a paper filter just as good-aside from reusability?

Last edited by gaucho10; 08-22-2012 at 06:32 AM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-22-2012, 07:39 AM
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Do you wrestle over lubrication types and oil-change intervals similarly over you AUTOMOBILE or TRUCK, gaucho10?

Do what you gotta do; bring peace-of-mind to the space between your ears, but . . . in my view, the Kawasaki Owner's Manual recommendations are both adequate for service life, and adequate to maintain factory warranty. YMMV!



Further, I find no caveat against "friction modifiers," or "energy-conserving" lubricants in the Kawasaki literature, nor do I know of any example of any wet clutch damaged by use of same.

In my view, if you follow the recommendations of your Owner's Manual, you will enjoy the reliability, durability (service lif), and performance to the major extent of the valiant KLR's capability.

With 25 + years of production, I know of no maintenance issue traceable to use of sufficient factory-recommended lubricants.

Last edited by LoneRider; 08-22-2012 at 07:52 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-22-2012, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaucho10 View Post
I came onto this website some time after putting some miles on my 2012 KLR 650. After reading many posts I noticed that people here change the oil during the break-in period at short-miles-intervals.

When I picked up my bike from the dealer I was told to bring it back in for the first oil change after 600 miles. I have since put on 1,500 miles and I am now going to change my own oil. So my questions are as follows:

1. What is the benefit of changing the oil on the first 100 miles (as I have read in some of these posts)? I personally think that 100 miles is just too soon to give the bike a chance to "break-in". I could be wrong....

2. Is it a good time (or too late) to change to a synthetic oil.

3. Is it worth it to go synthetic? Cost vs. advantage.

4. Will I need a "Synthetic Oil Filter" (metal/SS) or is a paper filter just as good-aside from reusability?

1. There are bits of stuff in a new engine usually, i.e. metal particles, sealants, etc. that should get flushed out instead of circulating around for hundreds of miles. That's the reason to do an early change.

2-3. Normally dino oil is perfered to synthetic because the piston rings will seat better during break-in. At 1500 miles you are past that point. IMHO no advantage running synthetic in a KLR. The most important consideration is frequency of oil change not what oil is used. A 2000-2500 mile interval is prudent. Rotella T 15-40 is probably the most popular KLR oil, it's non-synthetic.

4. A metal filter is not cost effective when paper filters are $3 ea IMHO. Change the filter every other oil change.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9

Last edited by Spec; 08-22-2012 at 10:07 AM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-22-2012, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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I agree with you 100% LoneRider. I just wanted to make sure that there was no special "magic" or something that I didn't know about a KLR650 that would extend the life of the engine by following these rules.

Spec- <4. A metal filter is not cost effective when paper filters are $3 ea IMHO. Change the filter every other oil change.> I wish I could get a paper filter for $3 ea. I just paid ~$7.29 for mine at the dealer.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-22-2012, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by gaucho10 View Post
I agree with you 100% LoneRider. I just wanted to make sure that there was no special "magic" or something that I didn't know about a KLR650 that would extend the life of the engine by following these rules.

Spec- <4. A metal filter is not cost effective when paper filters are $3 ea IMHO. Change the filter every other oil change.> I wish I could get a paper filter for $3 ea. I just paid ~$7.29 for mine at the dealer.

$3 filter here

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-22-2012, 12:07 PM
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I agree with you 100% LoneRider. I just wanted to make sure that there was no special "magic" or something that I didn't know about a KLR650 that would extend the life of the engine by following these rules.
Cool, gaucho10!

Now, please let me qualify my previous remarks: MY OPINION ONLY.

There exist respected motorcycle forum posters, who sincerely and earnestly believe KLR's will turn into pumpkins at the stroke of midnight, unless their arcane rituals concerning break-in, oil choice, accesorization, etc., are followed explicitly and to the letter!

I respect their opinions; they may be right. Yet, the 25 + year production history of KLR's, begun even BEFORE Al Gore invented the Internet, has proven sustainable, even in countries and climes where the rituals of the self-annointed cognoscenti remain unknown.

Bottom line: Your bike, your maintenance scheme. Do what YOU think best, and--ride on!
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-22-2012, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spec View Post
1. There are bits of stuff in a new engine usually, i.e. metal particles, sealants, etc. that should get flushed out instead of circulating around for hundreds of miles. That's the reason to do an early change.

2-3. Normally dino oil is perfered to synthetic because the piston rings will seat better during break-in. At 1500 miles you are past that point. IMHO no advantage running synthetic in a KLR. The most important consideration is frequency of oil change not what oil is used. A 2000-2500 mile interval is prudent. Rotella T 15-40 is probably the most popular KLR oil, it's non-synthetic.

4. A metal filter is not cost effective when paper filters are $3 ea IMHO. Change the filter every other oil change.
What he said....I run Rosesmella and change at 1500 miles and its a little early but oil is cheap..... The only advice I can give you is dont forget that the KLR650 engine and the engine in a Ferrari have one thing in common... They both run on gas. The KLR 650 engine makes noise, shakes and runs forever with little maintenance..Cheap oil, change it often and enjoy the ride my friend...
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-23-2012, 10:17 AM
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I run the synthetic Rotella. I change it every 3,000 miles (this is about once a month as I ride quite a bit). I also add enough zinc to get the ppm up to 3-4,000.

ETA: I used the kawi oil on the first change at 300 miles, and regular Rotella at 1000. Synthetic at 3000<

Last edited by jameslemoore; 08-23-2012 at 10:20 AM.
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-23-2012, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jameslemoore View Post
I run the synthetic Rotella. I change it every 3,000 miles (this is about once a month as I ride quite a bit). I also add enough zinc to get the ppm up to 3-4,000.

ETA: I used the kawi oil on the first change at 300 miles, and regular Rotella at 1000. Synthetic at 3000<
Zinc?
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-23-2012, 12:42 PM
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Zinc?
Come on man...You know Zinc, some B complex and some extra fiber and it will keep your KLR regular
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