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post #1 of 15 Old 11-14-2012, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Squeaky KLR

Anyone have a squeak in their KLR??? I have a 2002 that has what sounds like a mouse in the muffler (stock). I thought it was something loose one the bike but I have held, grabbed or pushed on everything I can think of while the bike is idling to stop the squeak.......and still it squeaks.

It goes away when i rev it up but at normal riding rps's I can hear it most all the time.

Any ideas, suggestions or thoughts???

Thanks,
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post #2 of 15 Old 11-14-2012, 09:09 PM
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Sounds like the tweety has struck again....time to either do the Willys low buck mod or take more out. Either way you remove the last baffle in my case and the complete last baffle system from the end of the can.
Search out Willys Low Buck exhaust mod...I'm sure it will come up.
That is if it is actually the tweety that you are hearing, but it does sound like it.

Willys
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post #3 of 15 Old 11-15-2012, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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Ahhhhh..........so basically core out the tailpipe and yank out the tweety tube!?!?!

I see most people are doing that with a core saw.......surely that would work with a plasma cutter too........right???
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post #4 of 15 Old 11-15-2012, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Delta Dog View Post
Ahhhhh..........so basically core out the tailpipe and yank out the tweety tube!?!?!

I see most people are doing that with a core saw.......surely that would work with a plasma cutter too........right???
If so, I think it would be the most high-tech muffler baffle removal technique I've seen here. As you noted, most do it with a hole saw. I used a drill, a cold chisel, a hammer and lots of profanity. A plasma cutter would have been nice.



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post #5 of 15 Old 11-15-2012, 08:20 AM
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Just think that the bigger the hole you cut the LOUDER it will be! Once you have cut the core out, unless you are very experienced with a welder it ain't going back in again.
So, a plasma cutter would be good BUT, make sure you only cut the end of the exhaust directly next to the outlet hole and not past the indented part of the can.....the transition between the two levels is where the tweety baffle's outer tube is welded in the exhaust. What you are trying to do is just remove the inner perferated tube inside the last portion of the exhaust system or muffler. If you decide you want it louder then you can enlarge the hole and remove the complete last baffle system of the muffler. Again it is a simple cut, but once again, it's easy to cut a hole and remove the baffles etc but very difficult to put it back together correctly once you have removed each section of the exhaust. Just saying. So beware.

Once you have cut the smaller hole, you will need to insert a solid bar into the exhaust as deep as you can and wiggle it around to break off the 3 small weld that hold the inner most part of that perforated tube in place. They are on the spark arrester and the spark arrester will stay inside the muffler. BUT, if you cut the larger hole you will be bypassing the spark arrester part of the system. Once you get the tweety tube out, it's recommended to weld on a 3" or so pipe to deflect the hot gasses away from the fender especially on the earlier version KLRs or you will melt the right hand side of the rear fender.

I hope this helps....anyone do this mod and please remember that the bigger the hole the bigger the sound, and it isn't always the best thing to do....just saying.....

Willys
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post #6 of 15 Old 11-15-2012, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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My plan is to drill out a 2.125" hole and pull out the first (tweety) tube. Then weld back a 3" ss washer with a 1.75" center hole and an angled extension.

I am drilling out that size because I just happen to have a new 2.125" core drill. I can plasma cut any size which raises the question........what is the minimum size to cut in order to get the tweety tube out????

Thoughts, comments, rebuttals???

Last edited by Delta Dog; 11-15-2012 at 12:23 PM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-15-2012, 12:48 PM
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IF, all you want to do is get the tweety tube out to stop the tweety sound, all you need to take out is the baffle tube directly around the outlet opening,
OK, I just went out to the COLD garage and measured the opening, you need to cut 1 1/4" IF you use a 2 1/4" you will definately remove the entire last baffle system from the muffler and it will be LOUD!!!
If you don't like the sound and want more, make the hope bigger after hearing it with the small hole first.
Remember the stock hole is roughly 3/4" so you will be increasing the flow somewhat with the 1 1/4" hole...
Again....please beware....it is almost impossible for the average joe to go back to a stock can after making that larger hole. Just saying.

Bigger isn't always better.....to each their own.....

Willys
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post #8 of 15 Old 11-15-2012, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ahhh.......good info.........thanks!! I do, in fact, just want to get rid of tweety. So once I cut the 1.25" hole I can grab the lip on the existing 3/4" lip and it will come out....or am I still fighting with it to break some welds holding it in??? Or maybe the welds are already broke hence the tweety sound!?!?
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post #9 of 15 Old 11-15-2012, 01:37 PM
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Yes you are correct, you can grip the end of the tweety tube but it has the three spot welds at the far end deep inside the can. They can be snapped but it will test your wrists. The best way is to stick a bar into the can and it will bottom out against the spark arrester, you now need to wiggle the bar around until it snaps the spot welds.....then it's a slight game depending upon how neatly you cut the hole, to get the tweety tube out. Once it's out, just clean up the jagged hole with either a die grinder or a large round file. Simple really. The hardest thing is either snapping the 3 spot welds if they are still attached or fiddling around getting the tweety tube out.
This is what is commonly called the Willys Low Buck mod, as most guys want LOUD and more flow, they cut the much larger hole....but it is seriously loud IMHO.
At least this way you have a choice to see if you like this result or still want more noise and flow. When looking for flow, you will never get good flow from a stock can. I used to think you could, until I saw one cut open from one end to the other. There are so many baffles and twists and turns redirecting gasses to help with the noise levels that is silly to think you can get it as good as an after market can will give you.

I use a 1/8" drill bit to cut the hole out around the outlet hole and then use a chisel to join all the holes together and then wiggle the tube until it breaks and then test my patience getting the jagged tube out. It is a very easy thing to do. BUT, the can is very hard and will eat inexpensive drill bits!

Hope this helps.

Willys
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post #10 of 15 Old 11-15-2012, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok.....new plan!!!

Just going to cut the 1 1/4" minumim hole to get out tweety. Weld 2" long, 15 degree angled ss 1 1/2" pipe to 2.5" ss washer with 1 1/4" center hole. Then, of course, weld the washer/pipe assembly over the tweety extraction hole and paint.

If tweety goes away I will be super stoked because it is really embarrassing on such a cool, badazz bike!!!!
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