What are the pins on the pegs for? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 05-10-2013, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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What are the pins on the pegs for?

Beneath each of the front foot pegs on the bike ('09), there's a pin protruding from the bottom at the end, that look like they are threaded into the bottom of the foot pegs, they are maybe 1" long each.

Granted, I've lowered my bike a bit since I'm 5'7" (It's down 1" in the front, 2" in the rear currently), and I'm still just learning to ride, but a couple times I've leaned the bike far enough to scrape these on the pavement, and it startled me a bit.

I'm noticing that the peg on my left side looks like it's broken off, I don't know if that was me or if it was broken when I took ownership of the bike.
I'm thinking if I've lowered the bike 1" and the pegs are 1" long, if they are for warnings of "you are leaning too far", they may now be too low.

What are these pins for?
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post #2 of 27 Old 05-10-2013, 04:26 PM
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they're feelers so when you are leaned over too far you can feel it in the peg scraping the concrete so you know not to lean further. Its a race bike thing I think really, but its to let you know when you're at the limit of the tires and bike's balance and are about to scrape up your bikes parts (or fall over)

Of course with your bike lowered, you're going to hit them sooner. you'd probably be OK to take them off but you may end up scraping up your boots then...

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Last edited by jazzman; 05-10-2013 at 04:32 PM.
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post #3 of 27 Old 05-10-2013, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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So if the bike is lowered 1"...
And the pins are 1" long...
I'm thinking they don't need to be there any more, yes?

I could (should?) remove the one that isn't already broken off - when my footpeg itself hits the ground, I'll be at roughly the same lean angle as the stock height... ?

EDIT: I see your edit agrees with mine lol
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post #4 of 27 Old 05-10-2013, 04:36 PM
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Lowering the bike really effects the lean angle (lol, another reason I raised mine back up to stock!). When my 08 was lowered 1.5 inches I scraped the feelers often, I can imagine with yours dropped 2 inches it would be even worse. Once I raised it back up to stock height I only scrape them when I'm doing "spirited" cornering .

That being said, it wont hurt anything if you occasionally scrape them. You could probably unthread them and take 'em off for all the good they do. Most other bikes I've had didn't even have them, and the ones that did just had short little ones, nothing like the long ones on the killer.
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post #5 of 27 Old 05-10-2013, 04:43 PM
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they are also there to make you crash..i can attest. stay off of cambered roads if yours are still on. i took mine off after i learned

Never ride faster than your angels can fly
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post #6 of 27 Old 05-10-2013, 05:17 PM
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The hero pegs are there to warn you of the lean angle and take the wear when you ground a bike's footrests when you lean through corners.

If you are touching the pegs down often learn to hang off the inside a bit and keep the bike more upright - and maybe set up the rear suspension static sag (spring preload increase to raise the rear) and unload some freight off the bike...

The footpegs will fold up when they touch. The hero pegs extending down give a margin of safety to notice the touch. If you take the hero pegs off, by the time you ground the footpeg itself, you are micro nanoseconds away from grounding metal parts that don't fold. These metal parts don't have much traction compared to a tire. A condition commonly called "The Lowside Crash" normally follows...

A variation is the grounding of metal, followed by the "Oh sh%t stand the bike up" reaction to the unusual noise, followed by the sudden widening of the turn into oncoming traffic if a right hander or off the road if a left hander.

Last edited by Slowpoke; 05-10-2013 at 05:21 PM.
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post #7 of 27 Old 05-10-2013, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper View Post
they are also there to make you crash..i can attest. stay off of cambered roads if yours are still on. i took mine off after i learned
+1000

Did you lowside?

Gray-haired riders dont get that way from pure luck.

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post #8 of 27 Old 05-10-2013, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowpoke View Post
The hero pegs are there to warn you of the lean angle and take the wear when you ground a bike's footrests when you lean through corners.

If you are touching the pegs down often learn to hang off the inside a bit and keep the bike more upright - and maybe set up the rear suspension static sag (spring preload increase to raise the rear) and unload some freight off the bike...

The footpegs will fold up when they touch. The hero pegs extending down give a margin of safety to notice the touch. If you take the hero pegs off, by the time you ground the footpeg itself, you are micro nanoseconds away from grounding metal parts that don't fold. These metal parts don't have much traction compared to a tire. A condition commonly called "The Lowside Crash" normally follows...
Haha to "Hero Pegs"... I like it.

Well, fortunately I was going safely slow on very smoothly paved streets, so it was just a little "scrape" sound and there was no traffic so I just widened it way out (I wouldn't have otherwise), but it made me think:
They are 1"-ish long. I lowered my bike more than 1".

To me that makes me think that they shouldn't be there, because I'm not reaching the lean angle that the bike was actually designed to reach, when the pegs hit the ground on the bike with the lowered suspension.

I get what you are saying, but I think that would occur when the actual end of the peg hits the ground on my bike, not the pins - right?
(I'll have to look at it again tonight, to see if there's actual metal that would make the same sort of scrape sound - I could easily grind a little rubber away if not)

But, I will practice what you are saying, this weekend. I get what you are describing.
I'm still just learning, so I'm getting the hang of ALL the maneuvering, a newbie.

As far as the rear suspension -
I am planning on moving the links from the 2" hole to the 1" hole, to raise it back up so it's only lowered 1" total. I thought lower would be better initially with me just learning.
And I've actually got the spring preload set to the #5 (stiffest) setting - it's still soft - I think because of the lowering. I've heard that makes it significantly softer. I didn't ride it at stock height, but sitting static and bouncing on the seat - it feels about the same as when it was stock height, with the spring preload set to #1. Pretty interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowpoke View Post
A variation is the grounding of metal, followed by the "Oh sh%t stand the bike up" reaction to the unusual noise, followed by the sudden widening of the turn into oncoming traffic if a right hander or off the road if a left hander.
THAT was more my fear.
I really didn't feel like I was pushing the bike hard, I was going around a sharp corner at, I don't know, 15 MPH in my 30 MPH neighborhood.
Zero traffic on these streets, and since it's my first week actually riding on the road as a newly licensed operator, I'm hardly pushing it.
That's why I was questioning whether they really needed to be there - I never rode the bike at stock height, but I was thinking the whole "1"-1"= take them off they are possibly trouble"
Sounds like you agree...?
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post #9 of 27 Old 05-12-2013, 03:31 PM
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I have to try to remember to use good cornering technique when we are riding our Old Wing (GL1200) in the twisty's... one mistake I was making was turning in too early, then you try to "apex" too early, then you need to increase the lean, which you can't if the corner is sharp enough (hairpins at 20 mph on a loaded Wing) and then the peg scratches and then you stand the bike up and ride waaay wide like a goof... fortunately staying on the road...


The foot peg will fold up quite a ways - the pegs touching won't take away your grip if you relax the inside leg and don't try to hold it down.

The reaction to stand the bike up when the scrape sound happens and accidentally widen the turn is quite normal - it takes practice to learn to not do that - and to lean over again before you run out of room...

Just like it takes practice to countersteer out of an emergency -it is not "natural" at first...

Or to corner with almost opposite body English - on "top" of the bike on gravel/loose surface vs "lean over and hang off" on pavement -

If you ride a bit "toes down" the outside of your boot sole will feel the road before the metal parts and you will know you are approaching the limit. A good place to practice leaning is a big, clean parking lot that has good grip .... a KLR that is not set up or loaded too a$$ end down will lean a long way...

Practice practice practice - and do some reading and check out riding courses...
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post #10 of 27 Old 05-12-2013, 06:27 PM
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I have had a personal conversation with scrapper about these little protruding bits and I say take them off. Can't find the video, maybe scrapper or someone else can post up the link.
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