OK, I have built this trailer and forgot to update this thread ....sorry....I have had it in use for a few years maybe 3 or 4...again sorry.
I have been asked to talk about what I used and how it works etc.
I'll try not to just copy and paste which would be easier but probably not ethical ...? But may have to because we had a hard drive meltdown on us a year ago so I may have lost the pics.
It was made from 3/4" square tubing and used a Honda 90 swing arm and rear wheel....it took a day to draw it out on my garage floor for basic dimentions, but it was that simple.
As you can see it is a simple shape and strong!
I then went about skining the box with very lightweight alluminium. Siding material, cheap and very workable. It is glued and pop riveted on. It has a liftable top in the front and rear compartments.
I then went after a rear fender and rack. Fender was a plastic aftermarket one from Fleabay. The rack was a fridge shelf....yep all high tech. stuff....true to KLR regulations.
Then attention was pointed towards the hitch area. First hitch comprised of using a 1 ton van steering U joint.....it worked but not well. It allowed for too much flex surprisingly.....you would have thought the pressure a steering system would have been more...maybe not???
After using that for a year I went after it again and decided to make a fifth wheel type design. The up and down movement came from a solid block of steel welded to my rear PackRat pannier frame with a hole bored through it sideways. Then there was a second piece of steel un the shape of a tight fitting "U" to fit around the first piecealso with a hole bored sideways through it and a grade 12 bolt which fit tightly in the bore. I also drilled and tapped 4 threaded holes 2 on top and 2 underneath the welded block to allow me to control the amount of tension or drag the bolt was allowed to make to make sure it stayed tight and not started flopping around in the bore. Attached, welded to that "U" was a flat plate 1/8" thick with a square edge on one end and a rounded on the other. There was a hole drilled in the centre of that rounded shape and a bolt again grade 12 put through it. Now the trailer part had the same flat plate welded to it's drawbar or hitch attachment location, again with the same hole. Now I found a thin piece of cutting board material and machined it down to 1/8" roughly but perfectly flat and sandwiched it between the two flat plates. This gives the two plates a smooth easy to slide material to allow for smooth rotation on that side to side twisting motion. So far so good....? Still with me...?
I do not have pics of this seeing as I had meltdown.
This is the present way I have the trailer attached to my bike. It works and works well.
I have trailered this thing all over Canada and had zero issues with it as it sits. I don't use it much and at one time was trying to sell it.....but no sensible offers.....so I still have it and will again take it across Canada next time I go.
OK....now there are a few things to remember when designing a trailer. You must think of the trailer having an invisible line that is drawn from the hitch point, traveling through the body of the trailer, through the trailer axle and then to the ground. This is the loading ballance point or line that will allow your trailer to tow safely. I learned this the hard way. The rear rack I have on the trailer was first meant to carry my cooler or gas.....I loaded my smallish cooler with a weekend's food etc and started off......I got a km from home and the trailer tried to throw me off the bike! It started to flop from side to side, not wander or jump from side to side but flop as in tipping the bike from side to side. It nearly threw me off.....I was lucky. So after returning home and reloading with all heavy items below this imaginary line all was well. I see some guys building trailers and see that their design hasn't been designed to take this line into concideration. They will be sorry, but I do try and explain what and how to fix their design. Some listen some don't.....to each their own....it's a free world.
I am still thinking of building a two wheeled trailer one day but it gets pushed to the back burner too often. I want to see if it would be a better design load weight wise...not that I'm looking to increase the load on my bike. The single wheeled trailer pulls so effortlessly nu really don't know it's there untill you come to a parking lot and need to back it up. OR, if you decide to take it off the bike for a day of trail riding. Then it wants to fall over and is very hard to stop it from doing so. A small price to pay for such a good design...imho. If you load you bike to the limits of it's capability, it has a much harder time pushing itself through the air causing your bike to drink more fuel. This is how I went this past summer back to the Arctic. It was very noticable in the long term costs in fuel. If you load a thin single wheeled trailer with some of the lighter items that normally would stick way out or disrupt airflow you will save quite a bit of $$$ on a cross country adventure.
So, that's it for now.......I'll post up some finished pics with it attached to the bike, albeit with the old hitch design but you will get the bigger picture of how it looks etc.
If you have any questions.....I'm happy to help....just ask.
That's all I got.....