Not KLR but Kawasaki Carb issue - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 10-21-2013, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Not KLR but Kawasaki Carb issue

I have a 1997 KLF 400 ATV.

Having some carb issues and rather than registering at another forum figure it's likely simple and can get an answer here. Carb looks very similar to the KLR.

Couple of weeks ago I noticed a puddle of fuel under the ATV. Checked and found it was coming out of carb drain tube. Tried to tighten, loosen& tighten, the drain screw which didn't fix the problem.

I used the quad briefly a couple of days ago. No issues. Today I check the quad and there is a large puddle of fuel under it.

So I'm figuring I've got a stuck float so the carb has to come apart.

Also concerned that fuel may have leaked into the cylinder, although that side of the carb looks to be higher than the air box side.

Never had this carb apart. The ATV only has 2000km on it.

Any enlightenment appreciated.

.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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Last edited by klr4evr; 10-31-2013 at 08:49 PM.
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post #2 of 7 Old 10-21-2013, 04:51 PM
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Looks like, to me . . . inadequate float valve seal.

Most likely, piece of trash between float valve and its seat [you MAY be able to get rid of it, just by opening the drain screw and purging the float bowl]; but . . . could be worn/brittle valve, or worn valve seat; COULD BE, "stuck" float; COULD BE punctured and flooded float.

Pinching off the dump tube could possibly result in irrigating the cylinder (and consequently the crankcase) with gasoline, in the event of a float valve failure.

As to carburetor type, my KLF300 has a CVK32 carb; chances are, you have a CVK34; they're functionally identical to the KLR650's CVK40, AFAIK; Tom Schmitz' "Carb Overhaul" videos posted on this website should be useful, if you need to take a look at the carb innards.

Good luck!
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post #3 of 7 Old 10-21-2013, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Okay thanks. I've already done the purge with the drain screw. Think I'll try again and also remove the drain screw and purge.

I don't see a change in the oil level so I'm hoping that the cylinder won't have fuel in it. I just filled it with Rotella T6. Hope I don't have to dump that out.

Do these carbs benefit from needle shimming and slide drilling?

.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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Last edited by klr4evr; 10-31-2013 at 08:50 PM.
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post #4 of 7 Old 10-21-2013, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klr4evr View Post
Do these carbs benefit from needle shimming and slide drilling?

.
Possibly, however--given the service life spectrum of a utility ATV, off-road with an auto-clutch, don't know if any difference would be discernible or measurable.

Further, off-road vehicles, like ATVs, may not be subject to the same emissions/environmental scrutiny street-legal motorcycles might. That is, Kawasaki may have jetted/carbed ATVs fuel-richer than street-legal motorcycles from the factory; an ATV air/fuel mix may be optimized more toward optimum power.
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-23-2013, 08:11 PM
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klr4evr,
You may have already repaired it, but I'll give my 2 cents worth.

The fuel valve selector disc (size of a quarter, with 4 holes in it), is prone to tear off the sealing lips when left in one position too long. The crumbs migrate down the fuel line and jam the float valve and Even when You turn OFF the fuel valve, it is Not Completely OFF. Drip, drip, drip.
Repair parts, 43049-1017 packing disc/ 92055-1111 o-ring.

Or varnish in/on the Brass (non-replaceable) float valve seat. Just like KLR.
Use a home made Q-tip (cotton on a tooth-pike) and metal polish to POLISH the Sealing surface of the float valve Seat.

I Rarely have to replace the Viton tipped float needles.
I've been working on KLR's and KLF's, since they were NEW.
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post #6 of 7 Old 10-23-2013, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info.

I have got the KLF torn down to the point where I can easily remove the carb. Have other more important projects demanding my time so haven't actually removed it. Did remove the fuel tank though and the fuel selector valve is holding just fine.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #7 of 7 Old 11-07-2013, 06:17 PM
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klr4evr,
Did ya' get your "drip" fixed.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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