2003 build/rebuild thread - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 39 Old 07-13-2014, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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2003 build/rebuild thread

I am jumping in with both feet on this one. I have NO experience with motorcycle engines or mechanics. However, I can read a manual and understand what needs to be don and I have lots of mechanical experience with other things.

I picked up my bike form a deceased relative. He had been storing it (in pieces) since he got it 9 years ago. The previous owner put 31xxx miles on it in two years and heard a noise in the bottom end so he sold it. My uncle bought the bike, diagnosed it, and then left it in pieces. All I have for information from him is that, "there is nothing wrong with it besides being needs to be put back together and you might as well throw a new dohickey into it while it is apart."

The day I picked it up:


Set up in the garage with a work table behind it:
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post #2 of 39 Old 07-13-2014, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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My first questions.

Is the exhaust pipe (not muffler) a stock piece? Will the tabs beng back and seal up properly? I am not used to slip joint exhaust systems. Anyone know if a Supertrapp muffler is loud, I like quite stuff.


Do I really need special tools for the dohickey mod?
Is the stock fuel tank steel?
Any prefered fluids since I will be flushing everything?
How can I tell if the previous owner lowered the bike?
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post #3 of 39 Old 07-14-2014, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracer-X View Post
My first questions.

How can I tell if the previous owner lowered the bike?
Gen-2 the dog-bones are 5 3/8" long. ( Hole-to-Hole )
I just lowered my 2011 with Eagle Mikes's links that were 5 3/4" long. ( Hole-to-Hole )

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
Doo-Hicky
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post #4 of 39 Old 07-14-2014, 07:43 AM
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That exhaust pipe and muffler are both aftermarket, the actual header pipe is stock though... The Supertrapp's aren't really known for being a quiet exhaust and I doubt that you could bend those tabs back and get a seal of any sort. Everybody has different opinions on exhaust but if it was my bike I would look for another factory muffler, they're nice and quiet and usually pretty easy and inexpensive to source .

You do need special tools for the doohickey replacement. A rotor holding wrench and a rotor puller. Eagle Mike can sell you a complete kit that has all the parts to do the swap. You could also borrow the tools from another KLRista if you can find someone in your area that has the tools and would be willing to borrow them out.

Stock fuel tank is steel. Lot's of guys bolt on IMS plastic tanks for added capacity and crash protection. If your steel tank is not all rusty inside and has no leaks it's just fine though.

As far as fluids, your manual will tell you what you should be using. Lol, and on oil everyone has their own preference! I use Rotella T 15W40 in my bike. I buy it at WalMart in gallon jugs. Filters are cheap and I keep a few extra on hand. I'd also flush the brake fluid and rad, and give the brakes a good once over replacing pads if needed. Stopping is more important than going sometimes! Lol.

I'm also guessing that you'll need to go through the carb and give it a good cleaning, even more so if it sat with gas in it! The fuel degrades over time and builds up sludge's and varnish that plugs jets and such. Good time as well to check out your fuel lines and vacuum line to the petcock to make sure everything is in good shape with no cracks or deterioration.

You'll probably have to spring for some new tires as well once you get it running, especially if they are more than a few years old. Lot's of good suggestions on the forum here on tires, maybe even a few battles! Lol! I'd get it all put together and running good before I bother with the tires though.

Happy wrenching!


Last edited by 650Stew; 07-14-2014 at 07:51 AM.
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post #5 of 39 Old 07-15-2014, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Currently looking for a new muffler. I think I located the dohickey replacement tools in my area.

I've never "cleaned" a carb so I guess now is a good time to learn. The bike came with new knobby tires!!

I got to spend a couple of hours in the garage tonight. I cleaned the open areas of the bike real well with brake cleaner over a drip pan.


After that I turned my attention to the covers. I painstakingly scrapped the old gasket material off and then cleaned all the covers real well with carb cleaner.


Next questions:
The manual says that the brake and fuel lines should be replaced every 4 years. That seems awful often. It that for real???
It also says to replace the fork oil every 18,000 miles. I haven't been around bike that much but I've never heard anyone talk about replacing fork oil. Is this for real too???
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post #6 of 39 Old 07-20-2014, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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Got about an hour to work on the bike tonight. Basically just cleaned up some more parts and installed the engine balancer chain and sprockets. I also flung some $$ at a couple of online KLR vendors so that I can continue to assemble.
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post #7 of 39 Old 07-20-2014, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracer-X View Post
Next questions:
The manual says that the brake and fuel lines should be replaced every 4 years. That seems awful often. It that for real???
It also says to replace the fork oil every 18,000 miles. I haven't been around bike that much but I've never heard anyone talk about replacing fork oil. Is this for real too???
My brake and fuel lines are 10 years old and I have no intention of changing them. If the bike were stored outdoors I might consider it. I would definitely be flushing out the brake fluid and changing it for fresh.

I just changed for fork oil after replacing seals. Last time was about 5 years ago. I definitely would recommend it. I was surprised at just how dirty the oil was. Can't remember how much mileage I had on the oil but it was less than the 18k you mention. If it's never been done I'm sure you'll find that the levels are uneven and incorrect. Eventually that oil turns into a tar like goop if you don't change it occasionally. With that bike you can change it with the forks in the bike but I find it's not a bike job to remove them.

.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #8 of 39 Old 07-20-2014, 08:54 AM
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If this was my project I would buy the parts related to the water pump seals (oil and water) and replace them.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #9 of 39 Old 07-20-2014, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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My brake and fuel lines are 10 years old and I have no intention of changing them. If the bike were stored outdoors I might consider it. I would definitely be flushing out the brake fluid and changing it for fresh.

I just changed for fork oil after replacing seals. Last time was about 5 years ago. I definitely would recommend it. I was surprised at just how dirty the oil was. Can't remember how much mileage I had on the oil but it was less than the 18k you mention. If it's never been done I'm sure you'll find that the levels are uneven and incorrect. Eventually that oil turns into a tar like goop if you don't change it occasionally. With that bike you can change it with the forks in the bike but I find it's not a bike job to remove them.
The bike has been stored inside for the last 9 years. I will definitely be changing the fluids and am glad to hear that the hoses might not need to be changed. I'll gather the parts to do the fork oil also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by klr4evr View Post
If this was my project I would buy the parts related to the water pump seals (oil and water) and replace them.
I haven't found those parts on the KLR650 specific online retailers. I'll broaden my search. They are on my list of gaskets and seals to replace.

Thanks for the help!
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post #10 of 39 Old 07-20-2014, 04:26 PM
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This is a great site to bookmark if you haven't already.

http://www.klr650.marknet.us/wpump.html

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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