Question About Rear Brake Pads (2006 KLR 650) - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 03-17-2015, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Question About Rear Brake Pads (2006 KLR 650)

Hey there. New to this forum. Just recently bought myself a used 2006 KLR 650 (first one I have owned so everything is new to me) with about 8,000 Miles. Still Runs great. The problem I am having is that I decided to change the rear brake pads as they were pretty worn out. The thing is is that to get the inside pad off its holders, I had to use quite a bit of force to get it off, and when I tried to put the new pad back on its holders, it would fit on one side, but not the other. I tried putting it on one and then the other constantly to no avail. I decided to put the pad on one of the holders and then gently tap the other side on with a rubber hammer. I tested it out and everything works fine but it looks like the pad might slip off the holder If I take a few bumps. Was it suppose to be this difficult and tight to get on or are they suppose to go on nice and loose? Any tips would be great as I fear my caliper might be bent or something. Cheers.
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-17-2015, 10:20 PM
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Check out:

www.klr650.marknet.us/brakepads.html

Plus, some videos appear when you Google, "change brake pads klr650."

Plus, I think some threads exist on this website addressing brake pad replacement.

Not trying to blow you off; diagnosing by long distance, especially without images, remains a challenge. Good luck!
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post #3 of 7 Old 03-18-2015, 12:06 PM
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RDS_231,
If the issue of New Pad fitment is that the metal backing plates are slightly too wide or too long and are rubbing/contacting the edges of things, you may need to look for contact spots and use a file to relieve the contact. They need to be just slightly free.

Another issue that might need investigated.
Is your brake fluid reservoir now 'Over-Full', being as the caliper piston is now compressed into the caliper? Good time to bleed fresh fluid thru the system anyways.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-19-2015, 01:10 AM
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Speaking of brake fluid levels, I have found that if you top off the reservoir when installing new pads and then don't add more every time the level drops a little, it will give you a good idea of when to check for worn out pads. When the level drops to near the bottom level line, it is time to check for worn pads or a fluid leak.
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post #5 of 7 Old 03-20-2015, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by RDS_231 View Post
Was it suppose to be this difficult and tight to get on or are they suppose to go on nice and loose? Any tips would be great as I fear my caliper might be bent or something. Cheers.
RDS_321, after referring you to an Internet reference, and giving you sage advice, I ALMOST HAD TO EAT MY WORDS!

Changing rear pads on my '07, I encountered your installation difficulties myself.

Had to struggle to get the caliper to, as a dentist sometimes says, "OPEN WIDE," removing the outboard pad, and in installing the new outboard pad.

Then, when trying to install the new inboard pad . . . DID THEY SELL ME THE WRONG PARTS??????????

No, they didn't, but . . . didn't look like two material objects (outer and inner pad) were going to occupy the same space at the same time; too little clearance.

The problem, I think, was . . . not retracting the caliper piston sufficiently, in this latter case. I REMOVED the master cylinder cover (to allow for some space from fluid transfer from slave to master), and pushed as hard as I could with my fingers on the piston, but no significant progress.

Finally, I re-installed the worn used inner pad, got a great big ol' flat-blade screwdriver in between the pads and levered some distance in. Then I dumped the old inner pad, dropped in the new one, and with Mr. Screwdriver's help, made a sandwich of the rear rotor.

Next time: Engage Mr. Great Big C-Clamp to compress that piston. I suspected poor fitment of the pad base, but . . . that was not the problem at all; I had the right parts, correctly manufactured. Besides my own ineptitude, don't think any other problems exist.

Regardless, now looking forward to smooth, sure stops, with new Galfer Greens, fore and aft!
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post #6 of 7 Old 03-20-2015, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
.........................
The problem, I think, was . . . not retracting the caliper piston sufficiently, in this latter case. I REMOVED the master cylinder cover (to allow for some space from fluid transfer from slave to master), and pushed as hard as I could with my fingers on the piston, but no significant progress.

Finally, I re-installed the worn used inner pad, got a great big ol' flat-blade screwdriver in between the pads and levered some distance in. ..............
Next time: Engage Mr. Great Big C-Clamp to compress that piston. .......................!
I too recently tuned up my brakes and on both front and rear could not depress the pistons with my thumbs. So, I reached for the big c-clamp, but then thought "if the pistons are that hard for me to press back, they are that hard for the rotor to press back and will cause excessive brake drag and wear on both the pads and the rotor".

Instead I reached for some #400 wet/dry sand paper. I pumped the pistons almost fully out of their cylinders using an old pad to stop them from coming all the way out. I cut some 1/2" strips from the sand paper and used them shoe-shine-rag style to buff the pistons smooth and shiny. Needle nose pliers with pieces of rubber or vinyl tubing over the tips can be used to rotate the pistons from the end so you can shine them up all around.

After cleaning up the pistons I could easily push them in with my thumbs. It was worth the small effort since I already had the calipers off.
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post #7 of 7 Old 03-20-2015, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
Instead I reached for some #400 wet/dry sand paper. I pumped the pistons almost fully out of their cylinders using an old pad to stop them from coming all the way out. I cut some 1/2" strips from the sand paper and used them shoe-shine-rag style to buff the pistons smooth and shiny. Needle nose pliers with pieces of rubber or vinyl tubing over the tips can be used to rotate the pistons from the end so you can shine them up all around.

After cleaning up the pistons I could easily push them in with my thumbs. It was worth the small effort since I already had the calipers off.
Great idea, GoMotor!

May do the same, NEXT TIME!
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