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post #1 of 17 Old 04-26-2015, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Spencer, MA
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Am I missing something?????!!!!!

Last year I replaced the rear tire/inner tube and front inner tube on my 2012 KLR.
I followed directions from several YouTube videos and I had no problem doing this myself. This year I got a flat rear tire so I took the rear wheel off and since it was so cold I decided to take the wheel/tire to my local bike shop for the inner tube replacement.

After getting my wheel back fixed I attempted to reinstall. No problem, right?..I've done this before....

Apparently I am missing a part or my brain just aint' functioning correctly. Here are the steps I took and the results:

1. Removed 1 break hose clamp, 2 break caliper mouinting bolts & rear caliper.

2. Removed 1 cotter pin, one axle nut, 1 washer, 2 chain adjusters & 1 axel.

So far so good....Now for the "problem area"...

3. On both the sprocket & disk break sides I removed 2 "collars". They do not look the same.

After reinstalling all these components I noticed that the right side of the wheel does not fit tight. There is about 1/2" gap where I can see the axel and the right side collar. The collar actually has a lot of play and can slide on the axel.

So now for the big question....Am I missing a piece that perhaps was removed at the dealer/service department?

On the sprocket side the collar covers all of the bearing but on the disk break side the outside perimeter of the bearing is unprotected.

Picture #3 shows what the right side of the wheel looks like. There is approximately 1/2" gap between that collar and the "caliper bracket.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg RW 2.jpg (305.7 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg RW 3.jpg (273.6 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg RW 4.jpg (302.5 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg RW 5.jpg (291.4 KB, 25 views)

Last edited by gaucho10; 04-26-2015 at 10:24 AM.
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post #2 of 17 Old 04-26-2015, 10:30 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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I may have missed something but I don't think I saw the 92143A in the pictures.

http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/o...90403/rear-hub
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post #3 of 17 Old 04-26-2015, 11:22 AM
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yep, IIRC my disc side collar has a sheet metal "cup" on it that covers the bearing. Also, the caliper mount might be what takes up that 1/2" of play. Just thinkin' out loud.
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post #4 of 17 Old 04-26-2015, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trundlebike View Post
I may have missed something but I don't think I saw the 92143A in the pictures.

http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/o...90403/rear-hub


Yeap....That's it Trundlebike....I was looking for such a diagram and I could not find that part. Same as Liftrat was describing. Thanks guys!!!!
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post #5 of 17 Old 04-26-2015, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaucho10 View Post
Last year I replaced the rear tire/inner tube and front inner tube on my 2012 KLR.
I followed directions from several YouTube videos and I had no problem doing this myself. This year I got a flat rear tire so I took the rear wheel off and since it was so cold I decided to take the wheel/tire to my local bike shop for the inner tube replacement.

After getting my wheel back fixed I attempted to reinstall. No problem, right?..I've done this before....

Apparently I am missing a part or my brain just aint' functioning correctly. Here are the steps I took and the results:

1. Removed 1 break hose clamp, 2 break caliper mouinting bolts & rear caliper.

2. Removed 1 cotter pin, one axle nut, 1 washer, 2 chain adjusters & 1 axel.

So far so good....Now for the "problem area"...

3. On both the sprocket & disk break sides I removed 2 "collars". They do not look the same.

After reinstalling all these components I noticed that the right side of the wheel does not fit tight. There is about 1/2" gap where I can see the axel and the right side collar. The collar actually has a lot of play and can slide on the axel.

So now for the big question....Am I missing a piece that perhaps was removed at the dealer/service department?

On the sprocket side the collar covers all of the bearing but on the disk break side the outside perimeter of the bearing is unprotected.

Picture #3 shows what the right side of the wheel looks like. There is approximately 1/2" gap between that collar and the "caliper bracket.
Gaucho10,
In photo 1 vs photo 4, you are holding TWO DIFFERANT spacers!

I'll suggest an outer spacer in photo 1, and an inner sprocket HUB spacer in photo 4.
Look at the "rub" marks, outside of the bearing pocket? Photos 2-3??? Something is not correct!
I'll suggest to not blame the shop, You should have kept all those parts at home.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #6 of 17 Old 04-26-2015, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Gaucho10,
In photo 1 vs photo 4, you are holding TWO DIFFERANT spacers!

I'll suggest an outer spacer in photo 1, and an inner sprocket HUB spacer in photo 4.
Look at the "rub" marks, outside of the bearing pocket? Photos 2-3??? Something is not correct!
I'll suggest to not blame the shop, You should have kept all those parts at home.
pdwestman, I agree that I am holding 2 different spacers.

I do not understand the rest of your statement..."rub marks"...

I did keep those parts at home.........except "perhaps" a part that I am missing and do not know which part it is.

Judging by what "Trundlebike" and "Liftrat" posted I assume that I am missing part #92143A.

BTW...I am not "blaming" the shop. I am simply making a statement that perhaps I misplaced or perhaps the shop "took off and did not return to me" the part in question.
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post #7 of 17 Old 04-26-2015, 07:00 PM
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OK,
So the 2012 parts fiche and numbers do NOT match the 2007 and older numbers!!!!!
Not "qaucho10's" fault!

Errors like this, do NOT help these issues!! Complete and proper identification of year and model is the ONLY WAY, to get things correct!

The "92143A" spacer, (FULL PART NUMBER) #92143-1061 R.H. Spacer.
Has a very large flange on it!
"92143B" spacer, (92143-1062) L.H. Outer Spacer, has a smaller/flatter flange on it!
The 42036-1206, INNER, sprocket Hub Spacer has NO "thin" Flange on it.

Look at the "scars", on the hub, outside of the bearing! Improper Spacing, somewheres'.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #8 of 17 Old 04-26-2015, 10:17 PM
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Not sure if this is settled or not, so here's my take. First, if there is more than about 1/16" to 1/8" of space left on the axle bolt after it is in place, but before tightening the axle nut, something is missing.

http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/o...9a04a/rear-hub

In this case the collar/spacer in photo #1 goes on the left side against the bearing and is #92152A in the parts drawing above.

The collar/spacer in photo #4 goes in the center between the sprocket carrier and the hub. It is #42036 in the drawing. It only fits in one direction.

The third collar/spacer seems to be missing. I goes on the right side against the bearing. It is #92152 in the drawing.

These collars are all necessary. Together with the large collar inside the hub and the inner races of the three bearing they form a solid cylinder around the axle and when the axle nut is tightened the inner bearing races are held fixed so they don't rotate on the axle. Instead the balls in the bearings rotate on the races.
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post #9 of 17 Old 04-26-2015, 10:43 PM
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A technique I use to keep the rear hub components "straight" when removing/replacing the rear wheel:

Remove rear axle cotter pin, washer, and nut . . . drive axle out from right to left, using ratchet handle as a driver . . . when ratchet handle penetrates flush with the inside edge of the right spacer, stop driving and begin withdrawing axle by pulling from the left-hand side . . . do NOT withdraw axle completely, but leave it spearing the left-hand spacer . . .

You now have freed the rear wheel/cush hub/inner spacer; you can push the assembly forward and remove the chain from the sprocket to remove the wheel, or . . . I usually leave the chain toothed on the sprocket, working the cush hub out to then roll the rim away.

I leave the bike with the ratchet handle in the right side, and the partially-withdrawn axle in the left side, spearing their respective spacers, chain tension sliders, etc., awaiting re-assembly. Sequence of components is in no doubt, since the order of the parts remains unchanged from when the wheel was installed (except, perhaps, for the inner spacer--keep an eye on that guy, when removing the wheel, make sure it's in place when reinstalling).

Upon rear wheel restoration, chain tension is the same; leaving the sprocket and chain engaged, less grease is transferred to the hands than when removing the chain from the sprocket, in my experience, YMMV!

Last edited by Damocles; 04-27-2015 at 08:40 AM.
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post #10 of 17 Old 04-27-2015, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
Not sure if this is settled or not, so here's my take. First, if there is more than about 1/16" to 1/8" of space left on the axle bolt after it is in place, but before tightening the axle nut, something is missing.

http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/o...9a04a/rear-hub

In this case the collar/spacer in photo #1 goes on the left side against the bearing and is #92152A in the parts drawing above.

The collar/spacer in photo #4 goes in the center between the sprocket carrier and the hub. It is #42036 in the drawing. It only fits in one direction.

The third collar/spacer seems to be missing. I goes on the right side against the bearing. It is #92152 in the drawing.

These collars are all necessary. Together with the large collar inside the hub and the inner races of the three bearing they form a solid cylinder around the axle and when the axle nut is tightened the inner bearing races are held fixed so they don't rotate on the axle. Instead the balls in the bearings rotate on the races.

GoMotor, that all makes sense. Bike shop is closed today so I will go on Tuesday and see if I can clarify this problem.
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