New 2015 klr sputtering out already?? Please help - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-02-2015, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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New 2015 klr sputtering out already?? Please help

Got my new klr in April. I had just got my break in service finally done and I'm at 1500. But I did change the oil at 900 miles. Now it is sputtering out after the first 1/4 mile. Then it won't start. Please help me out!!
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post #2 of 12 Old 06-02-2015, 02:17 PM
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Hack66 -

Welcome to the forum!

It sounds like it's running out of gas. A quarter mile is about how far you'd get on a carburetor bowl full of gas. After it quits, the fuel trickles into the bowl and it will, I guess, go another quarter mile. Hope I have that right.

There are a couple of things to look at, and they are unusual for a new bike. Logic says you need to look at them, though. Since this problem cropped up right after a service, it would be helpful to know what was done at that service. For example, if valves were adjusted the tank had to come off. That would be a clue.

Let's take them in 'ease of checking' order.

First and foremost, is there plenty of gas in the tank? I'm sure you're familiar with the 'Reserve' position on the petcock, but I have to ask - would switching to reserve cure the problem?

There are some seals in the gas cap that allow the tank to vent, both in and out, yet prevent gas from spilling out when the bike is on its side. Those seals can become stuck and not allow the tank to vent. That prevents gas from getting to the carburetor because a vacuum develops in the tank.

The next time you start the bike, do so with the gas cap open. Go for a ride and see if the sputtering/stalling goes away. If so, the cap needs to be rebuilt. We can help with that.

The petcock on the KLR is vacuum operated. There's a hose that runs from the intake manifold to the back side of the carburetor. If that hose is disconnected no gas will flow. If it is poorly installed there could be a leak that would prevent the petcock from opening fully. Check that the hose is properly installed and in good shape.

The petcock itself should allow a really strong flow of gas to the carburetor if it is working correctly. Disconnect the fuel hose from the petcock and install a longer section of hose, long enough to run into a container set on the floor. Make sure the petcock is turned on and then start the bike, running the bike off of the fuel that has gotten into the bowl (if it won't start, skip to the next test). A good, strong and steady flow should come out of the hose. If it doesn't, then there is something wrong with the vacuum diaphragm on the petcock or there is still something wrong with the vacuum line to the intake manifold.

To test that, remove the vacuum line from the back of the petcock and replace it with one that is a foot long or so. Make sure the petcock is in the 'On' position and have the hose from the previous test installed. Suck on the vacuum line. Fuel should flow from the hose. If it doesn't, the petcock has failed. We can help with fixing that.

Once the fuel gets to from the tank into the bowl, it has to get through the jet and into the engine. There is a carburetor bowl vent that allows atmospheric pressure into the carburetor's bowl and prevents a vacuum from forming (same scenario as the tank). If that vent is kinked or blocked, it won't run very well. The vent line is the pinkish hose that is under the seat. Remove the seat and blow into the line. Don't suck on it. You may not ask me how I know, but if there is gas in that line it don't taste too good. Visually inspect the line from under the seat forward to the elbow on the side of the carburetor to see that there is no visible blockage or kinking. Test the bike.

The fuel gets into the carburetor bowl through a check valve. The floats in the bowl operate that check valve. The valve could be stuck or not opening fully.

On the bottom of the bowl there is a small screw that is a drain. Open that drain to let any gas in the bowl out. Then remove the bowl and inspect the floats (which should be fully dropped) and the valve's needle, which should also be fully dropped. Gently move the floats up and down, feeling for any roughness or binding. I really hope you find the problem before having to go this far. We can help if you're not comfortable with undoing things on the carburetor.

These are the most likely things I can think of, but the problem could be other things.

Let us know what you find and we'll go from there.

Tom

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'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte


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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 06-02-2015 at 02:22 PM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 06-02-2015, 02:30 PM
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OOOPS! A minor edit -

I didn't finish describing how to check the carburetor vent line. The first blow is to move anything in the line away from you. You won't be able to blow through the line. After blowing, gently suck on the line; you should be able to draw some air back though the line and may hear a bit of noise coming from the air filter area.

Tom

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I lit a cigarette and dragged a smoking stand beside the chair. The minutes went by on tiptoe, with their fingers to their lips. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-02-2015, 03:08 PM
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bought in April, 1500 miles.....Don't touch it -- WARRENTY
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-02-2015, 06:03 PM
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New in April, Back to the shop, Warranty... they might even fetch it for you if you don't have a trailer to get it there.
Warranty work, like the other guy said, Don't mess with it, call the shop... Warranty.. Oh, did I happen to mention? Warranty??

Best of luck,

Frenchie

PS; Don't mess with it, Warranty work...
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-02-2015, 07:31 PM
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I don't consider normal rider maintenance, diagnosis/repair and adjustment, action voiding any warranty.

That said, nothing wrong with providing the dealer the opportunity to make things right, if a convenient option.

My opinion only.
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-03-2015, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hack66 View Post
Got my new klr in April. I had just got my break in service finally done and I'm at 1500. But I did change the oil at 900 miles. Now it is sputtering out after the first 1/4 mile. Then it won't start. Please help me out!!
My question to all is,
Who did the Initial Break-in Maintainance? Owner, Independent mechanic, Selling dealership?
Who ever did it, possibly got some thing wrong. They should straighten out their error. Free of charge.
I think Toms fuel delivery assistance has it covered.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 83,000+ miles & counting
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-03-2015, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
I don't consider normal rider maintenance, diagnosis/repair and adjustment, action voiding any warranty.

That said, nothing wrong with providing the dealer the opportunity to make things right, if a convenient option.

My opinion only.
YOU don't, but the dealer may
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-03-2015, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hack66 View Post
Got my new klr in April. I had just got my break in service finally done and I'm at 1500. But I did change the oil at 900 miles. Now it is sputtering out after the first 1/4 mile. Then it won't start. Please help me out!!
Vacuum line...

There are two rules for being successful in life.

Rule 1: Never tell others everything you know.
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-03-2015, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnail View Post
YOU don't, but the dealer may
I think Magnuson-Moss ( Magnuson?Moss Warranty Act - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ) might prevail over what the dealer thinks, johnnail!

Otherwise, the dealer might think CHANGING THE OIL invalidates the warranty.

Applying Occam's razor to the situation, I think Dan Diego's suggestion above might be in order: Vacuum hose between petcock and carburetor port may be loose . . . re-attaching shouldn't (IMHO and interpreting Magnuson-Moss) invalidate warranty, YMMV. If correct, solves the problem and saves the inconvenience of a warranty call to the dealer.
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