Carb nightmare - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-31-2008, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Carb nightmare

Can someone throw some suggestions at me please?
2 weeks ago my 2000 KLR suddenly won't idle and when I keep it running, it pumps gas out the plastic nipple on the top of the carb (I think it used to have a vent line on it to the airbox...does that sound right?). BTW, the bike has 12k troublefree miles on it.
I took the carb off, replaced the diaphram/slide unit ($140!) and installed a DynaJet kit. The float bowl looks fine and the little pointed float needle also looks fine.
So today I put it all back together, I start it up AND GAS PUMPS OUT THE PLASTEC NIPPLE AGAIN!
I took off the float bowl off and it seem fine in there....could the choke be the issue? It functions fine....I'm really at a dead end in this analysis and a replacement carb is $450!
Would someone throw me a bone please.....Doyle (raydog)
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post #2 of 8 Old 08-31-2008, 08:21 PM
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Float valve probably sticking open.

Should have a hose on the vent running down under the bike. This is what the "T" mod is about.

The float itself could have a leak and be full of gas, it could be binding or there could be a problem with the float valve itself. The rubber pointy end of the valve could be deteriorated. Or some trash could be in the seat blocking the valve.

Should not require a new carb at all.
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-31-2008, 08:30 PM
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I may be wrong but the idle problem could also indicate some junk in the idle jet, even tho the bowl looked clean, some others in here have had the same problem and a good cleaning finally got them back running good. I agree with BigIron, the float sounds like it is out of adjustment allowing too much fuel to enter into the carb, thus overflowing.

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post #4 of 8 Old 09-01-2008, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much, both of you....this gives me good direction...I think I'll replace the floats and the little float valve with the rubber end...not high dollar items, but then I'll know they're good. I'll report back, thanks again!
raydog
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-01-2008, 05:59 AM
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Why don't you try a good cleaning before you replace stuff. My moneys on some trash or varnish in the passages/seats.
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-01-2008, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Roger that BigIron, especially since the parts look so good and functional. Of course, it's a bummer when I had it all apart on the table and DIDN'T do the further inspection behind the jets, etc. Now I must take the carb off the bike and do it right! Again, I'll report back.....raydog
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-01-2008, 02:20 PM
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The very best was would be an overnight soak in solvent (a gallon soaker can at auto parts store - $15 or so) followed by compressed air blowout. Remove gaskets/orings before soak.
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-02-2008, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGIRON View Post
The very best was would be an overnight soak in solvent (a gallon soaker can at auto parts store - $15 or so) followed by compressed air blowout. Remove gaskets/orings before soak.
Kragen, here I come! That makes so much sense....from 1999 to present, the existing carb has taken me across country twice, gone over eleven Rockies mountain passes all above 9k, yada, yada....trouble free. By me taking time now there's no reason I can't get an even better 2nd nine years. Raydog
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