Painting the tupperware - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-11-2016, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Painting the tupperware

I know it's been done, and done nicely. my red has faded to near white and I've tried the heat gun approach with no effect. Is there a good paint that will tolerate the flexibility of the fenders n sidecovers/fairing? Or does anyone know of a link for this? I'm getting more vain in my old age and I don't want people thinking I'm riding a 1940's communist bike!
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-12-2016, 01:45 PM
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There are plastic specific paints, but you might want to consider bedliner. I used rattle can by rustoleum on my fairing. Looks awesome. Lasts a long time (I've never touched it and it's been years). A lot of guys do it, always looks dope.

I believe Krylon makes some good rattlecan for plastics. The only reason I might not use bedliner (personally) on the pieces you're looking at is that it is like sandpaper.

That said, I'd still go bedliner. You can also have it done by a truck shop for cheap and it will look REALLY good. More color choices and finer grit, too.

Or, let it be ugly. KLRs like the ugly.



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post #3 of 12 Old 03-12-2016, 02:14 PM
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I like Lockjaws suggestion of the bedliner!
I haven't painted mine, but have heard from others that krylon fusion works really well on plastics. Also Plastidip if you want to be able to peel it off at a later date (though if the plastic is faded and crappy looking, why would you want to?)

Before and after pics, pretty please?
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-15-2016, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the ideas, will probably do rattle can Krylon, will certainly do pictures, I'll try to get to it this week, but I got a million other things crying out for my attention (like women and stuff)(right)
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-16-2016, 01:27 AM
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get all plastics LINE X'd.... indestructable... plasti dip is no good on tanks if anyone asks... fuel melts it off .... tried and found out ..lol and it will wear off quicker on the side covers under ya seat ... paint wise any good polyurethane 2 pack paint will cover it and last quite a while ...

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post #6 of 12 Old 03-16-2016, 09:45 AM
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I used Krylon years ago and its still good. Everything black is spray paint, silver is stock paint, front fender is a CRF450 fender.


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post #7 of 12 Old 03-17-2016, 12:26 AM
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Krylon Fusion paint checking in. It works but if you drop it enough like me it will need touch ups.
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-01-2016, 07:53 PM
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Hey guys I'm new to this forum and new to the KLR world. I just bought a 2000 a few days ago and I'm having a blast!

Anyways I wanted to chime in on this discussion because the green plastics on my KLR are fading and I've been thinking of ways to customize. I have a buddy that bought a home hydro dipping kit and I was amazed at how easy the process is as well as the price point on the home kit. a lot of gun guys are using these kits to add a little customization to their guns so I figured it'll hold up to just about anything I can throw at the KLR. Watch a few YouTube videos and check out some kits on Amazon and decide for yourself. I'm going to give it a shot here in the next few weeks and I'll try to remember to add some photos.
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-01-2016, 11:15 PM
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I use Kryon paint also, but it isn't that great if hit etc, it will chip, and start to peel if you haven't sanded and preped it correctly, This is all done on a GEN II not the plastic material of the GEN I....I personally do not like the lumpy look of bedliner, but if it stuch I could get used to it. My idea of a clean bike is a shiney finish on all painted surfaces not pimples all holding dust and dirt etc, to each their own.....but I expect i may be your best bet if you treat you bike hard.
I have seen miracles done with a heat gun, seriously almost a dusty white bike which was red when new turned a good shade of red almost as new.....not quite but close enough to last and make the owner very very happy. It is an art form and takes plenty of time and you must practice on the bottom of the fender etc so you do not go too far or not far enough. If you do not go far enough with the heat it won't shine like it should, if you go too far you will melt that spot and it will droop or worse fall off! Leaving a huge hole! If you are using a good heat gun not a hair drier, you watch the area very careully and sort of look at it semi sideways to see the sheen as it warms up, as soon as it resembles wet paint move the heat source or watch it melt. It's that second where it looks like wet paint that you are looking for and carefully move the heat along to the next area and it'll work and work very well.!!!! Just saying, but it is delicate to get it right and takes patience and practice. You can go over what you have done a few times to get it all uniform colour wise.....if it isn't 100% as you wish you can then polish it to get it perfect.

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post #10 of 12 Old 04-06-2016, 02:36 AM
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My Wife used Dura-Coat on hers. So far, so good. No peeling and it seems like it has a good bond
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