Is It Worth It? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-13-2016, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Is It Worth It?

I'm selling my wee strom and thinking that I could pump some $$ into suspension upgrades for the 2001 fugly KLR with 22K on the klock. I'm looking at cogent moab shock and some fork springs. Maybe the ddc kit. I'm not a suspension guru by any means and really don't know if it would be worth the $ for the riding I do. Mostly gravel, some travel single loaded and two up. Two track and maybe single track if I am unable to turn around. These upgrades would be in the $1K range

For me the KLR suspension performance is far superior to the wee strom and I'm wondering if these upgrades would be just as dramatic?

'01 KLR 650, '09 Suzuki DL650, '08 Suzuki Bandit 1250, '16 CRF1000L, '09 KLX 250s
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-13-2016, 12:27 PM
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Yes,

The difference between the full meal deal set-up (Cogent Adventure or Moab, DDC's and springs) is night and day vs. stock. I have the Cogent goodies on both KLR's (2000 and 2001) and it literally transforms the bikes and makes them feel 100 lbs lighter. It also makes them far more capable offroad. I'm a 30+ year offroad race veteran and if I had to ride a bike with stock suspension, the KLR would have been replaced with a KTM690 years ago.

Cogent makes the best value suspension out there for a KLR and their experience and advice regarding set-up is priceless. Customer service is also unbelievable. No, they don't pay me.....LOL.




Dave
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post #3 of 6 Old 04-13-2016, 12:29 PM
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Forgot to mention; out of the over $3k in upgrades on both Gen1's the Cogent stuff was BY FAR the most noticeable and dramatic improvement. 2nd place would be the IBC rotor/EM adaptor/SV caliper and every other mod would trail those two significantly.

Dave
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-13-2016, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, good to know.

'01 KLR 650, '09 Suzuki DL650, '08 Suzuki Bandit 1250, '16 CRF1000L, '09 KLX 250s
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-13-2016, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Would the adventure be good enough for my needs or is the moab the cats meow?

Also, I'm not quite sure I understand the ddc kit. Can anyone break it down into layman terms if they exist?

'01 KLR 650, '09 Suzuki DL650, '08 Suzuki Bandit 1250, '16 CRF1000L, '09 KLX 250s
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-13-2016, 02:16 PM
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OK;

1) The Adventure shock is the same body, spring, etc. but without the dampening adjustment or the lifetime warranty, free service, etc. It's a great choice for those on a budget. I have a Moab on one bike and an Adventure on the other and you cannot tell the difference.

2) The DDC's are a device intended to give you cartridge level fork performance from the antiquated damper rod forks. The dampening on the existing forks is controlled by the flow of oil through a set of fixed orifices. The only adjustment is by drilling (changing the size of the orifice... but making it larger decreases dampening - bad) or by changing the weight of the fork oil....which works but makes the forks harsh over smaller bumps. This is all about the dampening; spring rate is affected by the springs, preload spacers and sometimes air pressure....
The DDC's use 5 weight oil which is light enough that it has negligible resistance through the stock orifices so they are effectively bypassed. On compression the oil is now forced to displace the deflective disks in the DDC which offers a much more compliant ride than the damper rod orifices. a spring valve controls the rebound dampening rate much like Racetech's Cartridge Emulator/Gold Valves do for both compression and rebound. The advantages of the DDC is that because they bypass the orifices there is no need to disassemble the fork and drill out the damper rods like the RT valves.

Some people attempt to bandaid the forks using heavier oil, stiffer springs, progressively wound springs and sometimes by adding air pressure. These solutions can help with bottoming and fork dive but at the expense of plushness. The DDC equipped forks aren't harsh on the small stuff like rocks, washboard, roots, etc. but they offer vastly improved resistance to bottoming and keep the tire in contact with the ground for improved control.

I'm not a suspension expert and I strongly recommend a quick call to Rick or Todd at Cogent; they are happy to discuss the issue in more detail and point out solutions without any "upselling". I hope this helped.

Cheers,
Dave
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