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post #1 of 6 Old 02-26-2009, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Need help with KLR650 - electric system

Hey guys,

I'm a new member and a fairly new motorcycle rider. I have not been able to find the answer to an issue I'm having with the search function, so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

I have a 2006 stock KLR650 that was parked for 4 weeks without being fired up or ridden. After that one month period (yesterday) I tried to start the bike. When turning on the ignition switch the neutral light and head light came on, as usual. When I hit the starter button I would only hear a clicking noise, which led me to assume a loose battery connection or drained battery.

I removed the seat and proceeded to jump start the bike from the battery connectors, using a battery charging device for automobiles.

Now the bike show absolutely no sign of current running through any of its systems. No matter what kind of battery source I hook up to the bike, my bike does not turn, and the head light do not come on when the switch is turned on.

I checked the 2 fuses on top of the battery and they are good. I also checked the fuse near the front right side of the gas tank, and that was good as well.

Someone please point me in the right direction so that I may troubleshoot the problem effectively. Thanks!
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 07:30 AM
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There is a large male/female connector located with the fuses. Pull it apart and make sure there is no corrosion inside and then put some dielectric grease into the fitting and put it back together, making sure it makes good contact. My new 07 died one day, showing the exact same problems your talking about. Took me forever to find the problem, because the connector looked like it was still connected, but on my bike it took very little pulling on the connector to make it loose connection. I ended up using a small ziptie around both ends to make sure it didn't come apart again.

2008 DL650 VStrom Yellow and Black
Previous ride was a 2007 KLR Black/Silver, I miss it..
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 08:18 AM
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I had a similar experience on a different make of bike. I ended up walking eight miles home to get a trailer. Loading the bike was made easier when I discovered that I had hit the kill switch on the bike, allowing no power flow to the system. There are two safety switches on a KLR 650. Those switches are prone to fail due to corrosion and poor overall design and location. They appear to be present more for legal safety requirements than they are for function. Many do away with them with a bypass method of one kind or another. Both bypasses can be done from the left side of the bike with minimal tools and effort. The procedures can be found here:

http://www.klr650.marknet.us/safetyswitch.html

Good luck. I have also found power restored by simply removing the battery terminal cables and reinstalling them. Good contact is not a visible thing.
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 03:40 PM
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Welcome to KLRforum.

Do yourself a favor and pull the battery, clean the battery with a baking soda solution, and fill each cell (to the proper level) with distilled water.
I live in a hot enviroment and had to do this four times a year. Finally gave up and bought an AGM battery.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015

Last edited by tomatocity; 02-27-2009 at 03:44 PM.
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-27-2009, 05:11 PM
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Start simple. Verify the battery is good and charged and then get a continuity tester (simple probe) and start at the positive side of the batt, verify the battery ground and then work your way through the system.

Kinda farfetched, but if you had a slight short, using the 10 or 12 amp charger might have put enough current into it that it burned the wire.

Good luck. Look on the bright side -- you're better off like this than you would be with a sporadic problem.
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-24-2009, 05:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGIRON View Post
Start simple. Verify the battery is good and charged and then get a continuity tester (simple probe) and start at the positive side of the batt, verify the battery ground and then work your way through the system.

Kinda farfetched, but if you had a slight short, using the 10 or 12 amp charger might have put enough current into it that it burned the wire.

Good luck. Look on the bright side -- you're better off like this than you would be with a sporadic problem.
Guys,

Thanks for all the help. I guess the battery sources I was using were not reliable. I just happened to have a bad battery (it was over 3 years old. Fluid was in place but would not trickle charge). Swapped it out, been riding about 300 miles ever since and no problems. Feels awesome to be back on 2 wheels!
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