What In the world!?!! I'm stummped! Over Heating and 3000 rpm idle! - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 03-13-2017, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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What In the world!?!! I'm stummped! Over Heating and 3000 rpm idle!

First off Hi, how are y'all? Second hopfully this post is in the right spot. If not please move it.


Anyone ever run into a issue where their bike over heats in a few minutes of riding or idling and not being able to get the rpms to drop below 2500?

My recent buy is the 1999 Klr 250 which was running great till the problem stated above. As soon as I kick it over the rpms are at 3000 and and the temp gauge starts climbing.

-here is what I've done:
-I just cleaned the carb
-Adjusted the mixure screw
-adjusted the idle screw
-adjusted the valves per spec
-replaced the plug
-did a oil change
-coolant flush and change
-Replaced Radiator sensor switch
- adjusted and lubed the throttle cables, brake cables and clutch. Also checked the choke and choke cable and its seems fine.
Cleaned the air-box and replaced the filter with a oem filter.


Could be the result of a tiny vacuum leak, but I cant find one. tried spraying WD-40 to locate it but the rpms dont jump.

It stays in the High rpms, and loses power past 45mph and will over heat unless moving. I installed a manual fan switch to help with the over heating, but doesn't help much. It died on a trail today up the mountain and i had to stop and wait for it to cool down before I would dare start it up.

I am offically stummped. Hopefully someone can shine some light on this because the weather is nice and the trails are calling me.

Last edited by ADvrider99; 03-14-2017 at 02:05 AM.
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post #2 of 24 Old 03-14-2017, 09:43 AM
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Greetings ADvrider99!
Welcome!
I don't see thermostat on your list. I'm guessing the fan toggled on and off on it's own before your switch.
And it does sound like a potential vacuum leak.
I don't suppose this recent purchase came from an extremely different altitude than where you are now.... Utah... Huh.. what part?
My next question is how's your mechanical background?
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post #3 of 24 Old 03-14-2017, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Squidly View Post
Greetings ADvrider99!
Welcome!
I don't see thermostat on your list. I'm guessing the fan toggled on and off on it's own before your switch.
And it does sound like a potential vacuum leak.
I don't suppose this recent purchase came from an extremely different altitude than where you are now.... Utah... Huh.. what part?
My next question is how's your mechanical background?
Hi Squidly! Thanks for the welcome.

I haven't replaced the Thermostat yet. I will pull it out and check it today. Then let you know. Yes the fan switch would automatically turn on prior to the switch.

Still no luck on location of a vacuum leak yet, but that would be my guess as to the high rpms since adjusting the mixture screw or the idle screw does nothing. only when I add a 1/4 choke does the rpms drop.

Yup from Utah, Im currently in Provo and work in the American Fork area. I bought the bike here as well. Been in Utah almost a year. Lived in TX Prior to that. I love Utah though, the ride options and scenery are endless!

As far as mechanical background goes, I work on bikes pretty constant. I just finished bringing a friends bike back to life (Honda CB450 Nighthawk). I've owned 4 bikes. 3 dual sport, and a ninja 250 as a project bike. All but 1 were bought in non running condition and I restored each of them. 2 of the bikes I had I completely gutted, cleaned, repainted, and put back together. My KLR was also bought non running. I fixed it up and it was running great for a month and a half, till the current issue.

Last edited by ADvrider99; 03-14-2017 at 10:40 AM.
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post #4 of 24 Old 03-14-2017, 10:40 AM
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ADvrider99,
As Squidly mentioned, how's your mechanical background? Do you own a reliable 1/4inch drive inch pound torque wrench?

I've seen a loose water pump impeller nut on a few KLR250's over the years. And I've seen people leave / lose spacer shims out of the water pumps. The impeller not only has to be snug on the shaft (Blue Loc-Tite & 80 inch pounds), it has to have proper clearance from the cap!

Can you look at parts screens on line? And do you have a KLR250 Service Manual?

With the thermostat removed and the radiator 1/2 inch low on (pure Water for testing purposes only), It would be easier to see fluid movement.
The engine coolant runs from the thermostat to the Bottom of the RH radiator. Then UP to the radiator cap. Then across to the LH radiator, down and out the bottom coolant hose. The bottom LH coolant hose connects to the Rearward Nipple of the water pump. Then the coolant Exits the Forward nipple of the waterpump and goes into engine water jacket at the front of the cylinder.
(We've seen/read of many who have crossed these hoses at the pump!) The thermostat Can't work backwards. And the fan switch can't get warm enough to work either!

I think you may need to re-clean your carb pilot jet Outlet passages. Those 3 tiny little holes under the Bottom edge of the throttle butterfly plate!
The external Idle Speed screw should only expose 1 to 1&1/2 holes for proper idle speed of about 1500rpm.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 24 Old 03-14-2017, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
ADvrider99,
As Squidly mentioned, how's your mechanical background? Do you own a reliable 1/4inch drive inch pound torque wrench?

I've seen a loose water pump impeller nut on a few KLR250's over the years. And I've seen people leave / lose spacer shims out of the water pumps. The impeller not only has to be snug on the shaft (Blue Loc-Tite & 80 inch pounds), it has to have proper clearance from the cap!

Can you look at parts screens on line? And do you have a KLR250 Service Manual?

With the thermostat removed and the radiator 1/2 inch low on (pure Water for testing purposes only), It would be easier to see fluid movement.
The engine coolant runs from the thermostat to the Bottom of the RH radiator. Then UP to the radiator cap. Then across to the LH radiator, down and out the bottom coolant hose. The bottom LH coolant hose connects to the Rearward Nipple of the water pump. Then the coolant Exits the Forward nipple of the waterpump and goes into engine water jacket at the front of the cylinder.
(We've seen/read of many who have crossed these hoses at the pump!) The thermostat Can't work backwards. And the fan switch can't get warm enough to work either!

I think you may need to re-clean your carb pilot jet Outlet passages. Those 3 tiny little holes under the Bottom edge of the throttle butterfly plate!
The external Idle Speed screw should only expose 1 to 1&1/2 holes for proper idle speed of about 1500rpm.
pdwestman, My mechanical background is pretty in depth. I work on bikes weekly and have done complete engine disassembly and total bike restore. Unfortunately my inch pound wrench in back in TX.

When I bought the bike it came with the supplement manual and I have all the exploded parts diagrams for the bike.

All the hoses and connections are good. They were a little dirty so I cleaned it out. I just pulled the water pump and it looks like the spacer shims are gone! 0_o. I found what looks like half of a spacer shim that is basically eroded away. Yikes! That's No Bueno.

Also the water pump was cranked down really tight to the point it would barely spin. Shouldn't it be able to free spin with a little resistance? or am I wrong and should it be extremely tight?

I disassembled and cleaned the entire carb last week so I dont think that the pilot jet would be a problem. But I will check it again.

I think a vacuum leak is causing the rpm issue. If I add the choke the rpms slow down. Which makes it seem like its running lean, but I know its not.
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post #6 of 24 Old 03-14-2017, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADvrider99 View Post
pdwestman, My mechanical background is pretty in depth.

I just pulled the water pump and it looks like the spacer shims are gone! 0_o. I found what looks like half of a spacer shim that is basically eroded away. Yikes! That's No Bueno.

Also the water pump was cranked down really tight to the point it would barely spin. Shouldn't it be able to free spin with a little resistance? or am I wrong and should it be extremely tight?

I disassembled and cleaned the entire carb last week so I dont think that the pilot jet would be a problem. But I will check it again.

I think a vacuum leak is causing the rpm issue. If I add the choke the rpms slow down. Which makes it seem like its running lean, but I know its not.
The Water Pump shaft is gear driven. The impeller is not keyed nor splined to the shaft, so IT could possibly slip if the nut was loose or the SHIMS are missing, rusted away. The OEM parts shouldn't rust.

The 6mm nut is capable of turning the engine backwards at the mere 80 inch pound torque, when turning gently. This is why I really like to use a clicker torque wrench on that little guy. TOO Many people twist off the Shaft, $$$$.

I did Not question your pilot jet cleanliness. But I have personally re-cleaned those 3 tiny little pilot Outlet holes many, many times on carbs I have personally cleaned!
I usually try to observe aerosol carb cleaner sprayed thru the passage way (jet removed-mixture screw Closed).
I use a single strand of wire bent 90 degrees to poke down thru those holes and then back flush with carb clean and compressed air.
Sometimes I still have to do it twice.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #7 of 24 Old 03-14-2017, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADvrider99 View Post
I disassembled and cleaned the entire carb last week so I dont think that the pilot jet would be a problem. But I will check it again.

I think a vacuum leak is causing the rpm issue. If I add the choke the rpms slow down. Which makes it seem like its running lean, but I know its not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I did Not question your pilot jet cleanliness. But I have personally re-cleaned those 3 tiny little pilot Outlet holes many, many times on carbs I have personally cleaned!
I usually try to observe aerosol carb cleaner sprayed thru the passage way (jet removed-mixture screw Closed).
I use a single strand of wire bent 90 degrees to poke down thru those holes and then back flush with carb clean and compressed air.
Sometimes I still have to do it twice.
This is good stuff. I also have had to pull a pilot jet multiple times on an old 80 I had for the kids. I finally got so tired of it I removed all the fuel system components and sterilized every piece. After I put it all back together and added an in line filter, the problem stopped. Note though. I was finding chunks in every part of the system. So they just kept coming. It had set and the gas had evaporated and left it's evil self behind. All hoses got replaced.
With the comment you made about it working for awhile at first, it sounds less like a vacuum leak and more like a plug. The chance of developing a vacuum leap while in use is less likely than picking up a 8 microbe pos.
But you know your having a blast!!
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post #8 of 24 Old 03-14-2017, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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I wouldn't think that is should rust away either. Somehow its partially gone though. The shaft seems to be good.

I agree with your advice on checking the jet. It's always good to recheck the pilot jets, and carb in general. dirt can build up quick sometimes, especially when trail riding. I will see if I can rent a ft/lb wrench from autozone cause twisting off the shaft is not something I want to do.

My carb cleaning process is similar. I think its the best way to do it. Going half way on cleaning the carb is not a good idea in my opnion.

Doing it twice only means its twice as clean. Hopefully, then again 3rd times the charm right.
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post #9 of 24 Old 03-14-2017, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ADvrider99 View Post
My carb cleaning process is similar. I think its the best way to do it. Going half way on cleaning the carb is not a good idea in my opnion.

Doing it twice only means its twice as clean. Hopefully, then again 3rd times the charm right.
That's the spirit!
Keep us posted as well please. I love to learn stuff.
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post #10 of 24 Old 03-14-2017, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Squidly View Post
This is good stuff. I also have had to pull a pilot jet multiple times on an old 80 I had for the kids. I finally got so tired of it I removed all the fuel system components and sterilized every piece. After I put it all back together and added an in line filter, the problem stopped. Note though. I was finding chunks in every part of the system. So they just kept coming. It had set and the gas had evaporated and left it's evil self behind. All hoses got replaced.
With the comment you made about it working for awhile at first, it sounds less like a vacuum leak and more like a plug. The chance of developing a vacuum leap while in use is less likely than picking up a 8 microbe pos.
But you know your having a blast!!
would you suggest running a hotter plug?
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