2013 KLR 650 engine cut-off - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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Old 05-07-2017, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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2013 KLR 650 engine cut-off

Hi guys, I've been a forum lurker for a while, but decided to create an account because I'm having issues with my KLR.

It is a 2013 KLR 650, I bought it used with about 3000 miles on it, generally in good condition, a few things that needed care, but a good deal in the end.

I am a motorcycle noob (mechanically speaking), so be patient with me!


I'll describe the issue:


When I start the KLR, the RPMs are just fine, and I can leave my house without issues, but after riding for a while (over 15 minutes or so), the engine starts dying on me when the revs go under 1 thousand. So I have to keep feathering it so it doesn't die on me while I shift down, also, it starts misfiring when I'm in 1st or second. On higher gears I'm not noticing the problem (although it could be there). And after 1 hour or so, if I turn it off, or it dies on me, it is a bit difficult to turn it back on.

I thought it might be the little duct that sucks air into the tank so it doesn't become a vacuum, I disassembled it and it was fine, air went through no problem. I also played with the screw that limits the minimum RPM, I've messed with it so it's always 2 thousand or higher RPM and it still cuts off.

So I'm at a loss here. Previous owner said that never happened to him. The bike didn't get much use before I bought it from him, could it be a dirty carburetor? or clogged needles? if so, I might need to take it to a shop, because that's beyond my meager mechanic knowledge. I just want to know what it could be so I can point the mechanic in the right direction.

One thing you guys might need to know to diagnose the issue. It has an full FMF q4 exhaust kit, and FMF power up jet kit. The exhaust has a crack midway that lets a bit of smoke out, I have to patch that up. Hope this helps.

Anyway, any insight you can give as to what it could be, or if you have had similar experiences, I'd be thankful! please remember I'm a noob mechanic.

Thanks!
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Old 05-07-2017, 04:12 PM
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Are you familiar the the operation of the choke/enricher and how to move the lever between on and off?
Do you start it with the choke/enricher on and then move it to off in a couple of minutes when the engine has warmed up a little?

I am wondering if the choke/enricher may be in the on or part way on position all the time. That could make it start fine when the engine is cool, but die at idle when the engine is warmed up and make it difficult to start when warmed up.

Last edited by GoMotor; 05-07-2017 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 05-07-2017, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Hi GoMotor, thanks for replying.

Yes, I am familiar, and after the motorcycle warms up, I close it off all the way. So that isn't it. Unless there's something wrong with the cable and even though the lever is in the close position, it's still a little open? How would I go about figuring that one out?

Thanks again for taking an interest!
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustThaor View Post
Hi GoMotor, thanks for replying.

Yes, I am familiar, and after the motorcycle warms up, I close it off all the way. So that isn't it. Unless there's something wrong with the cable and even though the lever is in the close position, it's still a little open? How would I go about figuring that one out?

Thanks again for taking an interest!
I wish to Confirm proper enrichner lever operation.
Pull the lever towards the operator for Cold Start up.
Push the lever towards the front wheel for normal run.

The cable adjuster is under the fuel tank, requires fuel tank removal.
The 90 degree cable guide may be dis-located from the plastic choke nut at the top front of the carb, or the plastic nut may be broken.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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But if I can move the lever without issues, and the RPMs change as expected, and I can ride for 15 minutes no issues, why would the RPM start dropping bellow 1 thousand only occasionally? it doesn't happen all the time.

And why would the engine missfire when in 1st and 2nd gear, but on the higher gears, I can't notice anything?

It just seems to me that the choke can not be the problem. I'll be taking it to the mechanic tomorrow, I don't want to do tank removal and carb cleaning myself. Thanks for the thoughts though.
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:12 PM
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Just fyi my 2016 KLR 650 warm idle will vary between 1500 and 1000 randomly. If that helps any as a reference at least.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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2013 klr here, idles at around 1300
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Old 05-08-2017, 07:13 AM
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I had a problem similar back when I bought my 2011 KLR 650 new.
I took it in under warranty and they fixed the problem.

The written explanation on my repair report was;
"Spring in handlebar switch that loads friction did not have proper tension, re-tentioned spring, resolved problem."

I don't know if this could be related, but thought I'd throw it out as something to have checked.
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:33 AM
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Sounds like you may have a lean issue with your carb, the RPM's should not drop below 1200-1400 while idling due to oiling concerns anyway, just fyi if your idle adjustment screw needs to be turned up.

If it seems to get problematic when it's warm you may be having a vacuum leak somewhere, check your vacuum line to the fuel petcock, and make sure that isn't giving you issues there as well. Also, your Carb hose clamp to the airbox and screws at the base that hold it to the motor.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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As I said, I'm not a gearhead, how would I go about checking/fixing what you mentioned? thanks
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