Question: KLR electrical system - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 05-19-2017, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Question: KLR electrical system

I had a 98 KLR, and am in the market for a recent year one. How strong is the electrical system, in terms of being able to power heated clothing, extra lights, etc.
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post #2 of 5 Old 05-20-2017, 01:15 AM
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A.) Not Very

Gen-1 Alternator: 14 Amps at 14 Volts = 196 Watts
Gen-2 Alternator: 17 Amps at 14 Volts = 238 Watts
High Output (Advertised) Alternators: 20 Amps at 14 Volts = 280 Watts

Two things to keep in mind:

First. What are the normal electrical loads that you need to accommodate? Examples: Lights (Head, Tail, Brake, Turn, Instrumentation, etc.), Ignition System, Cooling Fan, any Farkels that have been added, and don't forget about recharging the Battery after every time you start the bike. Add all these loads up before you decide just exactly what sort of a margin/cushion you will feel comfortable with. Adding Heated Grips and Heated gear can chew up a lot of electrical capacity pretty darned quickly. You might also want to bear in mind that the engineer who designed the charging system, probably didn't do so with the idea in mind that it would be expected to perform at its rated capacity, anywhere near 100% of the time. Even given the rather crude voltage regulation system that our KLR650's use.

Second, An Alternator doesn't always put out its rated capacity. That only happens at higher Engine/Alternator RPMs. From a design point of view: To get a higher output from any given Alternator (to make a long story short), it requires larger wires in the Alternators Stator. But larger Alternator Stator wires in the same amount of space, means there will be fewer turns of wire. Fewer turns of wire, means that to achieve a higher output, the Alternator Rotor must spin faster in a high output Alternator, than in a low output Alternator in order to achieve whatever its maximum capability is. The result is, that what one gains in maximum output, causes a sacrifice in output at lower Engine/Alternator RPM. The paradox is; that depending on how you use the bike, and where the bike spends most of its time (RPM wise), a lower rated Alternator/Stator can sometimes be the better choice.
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Last edited by Bluehighways; 05-20-2017 at 01:24 AM.
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post #3 of 5 Old 05-20-2017, 06:33 AM
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+ 1!!!!!!!!

Installed high-output stator in my Generation 1; more juice at higher rpm than stock; lower output at lower rpm than stock.

Great for insuring sufficient power and keeping battery up for heated gear, but . . . some power management advisable, if running at idle for long periods while loading the electrical system.

A stock regulator/rectifier might handle a hotter stator output; I upgraded mine just for peace-of-mind.

Excellent customer service from Race-Tech, in my experience. Check 'em out by clicking on this link! Kawasaki KLR650 High Output Stator
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post #4 of 5 Old 05-20-2017, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluehighways View Post
A.) Not Very

Gen-1 Alternator: 14 Amps at 14 Volts = 196 Watts
Gen-2 Alternator: 17 Amps at 14 Volts = 238 Watts
High Output (Advertised) Alternators: 20 Amps at 14 Volts = 280 Watts

Two things to keep in mind: . . .
Thanks Blue. Especially for the explanatory information. I'll check and see what my jacket lining draws.
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post #5 of 5 Old 05-20-2017, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
+ 1!!!!!!!!

Installed high-output stator in my Generation 1; more juice at higher rpm than stock; lower output at lower rpm than stock. . . .
And thank you, Damocles (hope the sword treats you well.)
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