How many Ampers through the key ignition - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 12-18-2017, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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Talking How many Ampers through the key ignition

Hi,

I have recently changed my ignition key switch (it had been foerced and was not working anymore... )
I would like to add some security to the bike with an extra switch to prevent the bike from starting, in case the key switch was successfully forced.
I have cut the brown wire of the ignition key switch, have diverted it to a hidding place on the bike, but then I am wondering what kind of switch I need.
And basically, it mostly depend on how much power (voltages and ampers) are going through that cable. If anyone had any idea, that would be great, as I don't really want to put a switch not strong enough (and you could imagine it starting to burn, and if you've got really no luke, by the time you notice, you've got no bike anymore...)
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post #2 of 9 Old 12-18-2017, 09:20 AM
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I'd probably wire in a plain ol' 10-amp, SPST (single-pole, single-throw) junk box or Radio Shack switch in that application, myself--you could probably get by with less current capability.

A Generation 2 ignition switch carries heavier current, since the ignition is powered by the battery (unlike the stator-powered Generation 1 ignition).
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post #3 of 9 Old 12-18-2017, 08:07 PM
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Maybe consider using a relay, say 30 Amps or so and then a really small and easy to hide switch to power the relay. I did that years ago on a corvette I had at the time. I used the Cigarette Lighter as the switch to power the ground side of the relay. Not enough current to do much of anything with the Cigarette Lighter (it didn't even get warm) but I could walk away from it with the Cigarette Lighter in my pocket and there would be no way to by pass the ignition without knowing what had been done. Even then; who carries a 12 Volt Cigarette Lighter around with them? Don't think due to the vibration that it would work as well on a bike, but you probably get the idea.
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post #4 of 9 Old 12-18-2017, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your answers guys.

Blue Highways, I like your idea about the cigarette lighter as a switch, very elegant.
Out of curiosity, was the cigarette lighter needed to be pushed in to be on, or just to be inserted in the 'slot'?

I've decided to go for a basic toggle switch, I didn't feel like going too deep in electronic to start wiring a relay.
Thanks Damocles for an idea about the current.
I've found a heavy duty switch doing 20A - 12 Volts DC, so that should do the trick.

Actually, my bike is a generation 2 (2009), so, Damocles you said that more currents will go through in that case. But it shouldn't be over 20A, should it?
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post #5 of 9 Old 12-19-2017, 08:44 AM
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I think the main power is fused at 20 amps, Tebo59, so . . . you're good to go, to the best of my knowledge and belief!
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post #6 of 9 Old 12-19-2017, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teebo59 View Post
Out of curiosity, was the cigarette lighter needed to be pushed in to be on, or just to be inserted in the 'slot'?
Pushed in. The few milliamperes that it takes to energize the relay isn't enough to do much of anything with a Cigarette Lighter Heating Element. Also, neither I nor any passenger in any of my cars smoke . . . . . and f they do, they'd better be on fire! So my Cigarette Lighter stays clean.
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post #7 of 9 Old 12-21-2017, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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@ Bluehighways: That's even better if you had to push the lighter in. It means that even if you had let the lighter in the car, I'm not sure many thieves would have thought about using the lighter to switch on the car.

@Damocles: Thanks for the answer. I feel reassured with my 20A switch then.
Finally, I've bought 2 switches, in order to have a kind of combination code to switch the bike. I know, it only makes 4 possible combinations with 2 switches, but it might be enough to frustrate a thief that would have found why the bike was not switching on as it should.
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post #8 of 9 Old 12-21-2017, 04:05 AM
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Then again, Teebo59; Who'd steal a KLR650?

I try to be diligent instead of negligent regarding physical security, but . . . rely ultimately on comprehensive insurance. With time and diligence, a determined thief usually gets what he's after.

Best wishes for your ignition encoding; if anyone steals your bike he'll likely have a truck or trailer; he won't casually ride it away!
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-22-2017, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Then again, Teebo59; Who'd steal a KLR650?

I try to be diligent instead of negligent regarding physical security, but . . . rely ultimately on comprehensive insurance. With time and diligence, a determined thief usually gets what he's after.

Best wishes for your ignition encoding; if anyone steals your bike he'll likely have a truck or trailer; he won't casually ride it away!
You're probably right Damocles.
But I believe every little thing might help a thief to choose the next bike to steal...
And as my bike ignition had been forced before I bought it, I still believe people are keen on trying to steal KLR...
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