What is the engine idle speed?
If it responds to throttle as described, I'll ask if the idle speed screw on the RH side needs to be turned up to 1100 rpm cool - 1300 rpm fully warmed in-order to not die at a stop light.
It dies while moving. Never at a stop. That's the weird bit. But I believe it is running at 1100
Too low of idle speed setting will affect starting, cold & hot. But I'd still suggest choke cable adjustment and CCC test.
With the engine running at normal temp & idle speed of 1200 + or - 100 rpm, gently pull on the choke lever. If it moves more than 1/4 of full travel before affecting rpm & exhaust note I'll suggest that the cable has too much slack in it & it is possibly not getting full cold enrichment.
Upon your 1st complaint, did they talk about zero throttle on cold startups, with full choke applied?
And then on hot startups, put starter in motion & then add just a touch of throttle? (I always explained this at point of sale.)
They did not, but I've owned a carbed bike in the past and don't generally blip the throttle when I start it.
Idle speed and choke cable adjustment should have been 2 of the first things discussed & attended to by a competent mechanic, after your 2nd complaint, IMHO. And carburetor cleaning if needed. (Which it may or may not have needed or received.)
If a 3rd complaint, CC Compression test, no ifs, ands, or buts about it.
All of this on their nickel, this is just proper dealer set-up and possible diagnosis of a possible warranty issue, IMHO. (42 + years in the biz)
Correct me if I'm wrong, but few brands that I purchased new before, came to the dealer in the crate. In this case, I don't know if KLR comes like that or not. If it does, some kid dropped the ball in PDI and the choke cable being out of adjustment, is the most likely culprit. Since bike had 6.9 miles on the clock, it's obvious that it had gas in the tank, the question is HOW LONG was it sitting at the dealer's fueled, and what kind of fuel was in the carb? Since they "cleaned" the carb (I seriously doubt that), gas should not be the issue. Choke cable/idle speed is more likely. If I would have a problem like that (and IF I fail to get help from KHI), I would take it to an Indy, serve the dealership with the bill, and resort to small claims court if they refuse to pay (or take too much time to pay up).
Yup, I'm going to end up pursuing a lawyer. I don't think they are even trying to repair it.
I'd call Kawasaki’s USA Customer Service: 949-460-5688 Pacific Time, they're located in Orange County California.
They, I am certain, will be more than willing to "help" the dealer resolve this issue!
I've no idea about any other brands delivery of new motorcycles to their dealers, but not a single Kawasaki motorcycle ever delivered to the previously oldest Kawasaki dealership in the USA ever was delivered un-crated. And there was always some assembly required! More assembly than many realize on many models.
On the 1987-2016 KLR650's, the fuel tank was empty, but it was installed. Normally no need to remove a KLR650 fuel tank to perform final assembly, final preparation & test ride. And I always insisted on putting on at least the 1st 5 miles to check all transmission gears, bed in the brake pads & scrub in as much radius of the tires as possible.
The Gen 1 choke cable adjuster is/was near the lever, easily re-adjusted.
The Gen 2, they buried it along the frame spine, but in a 65-85f shop a KLR650 will normally start even if the cable is allowing only 1/2 choke.
The Gen 2 choke cable can be easily adjusted properly (if needed) during the 500 mile break-in maintenance. Which the fuel tank should be removed to properly perform.
But if the cable truly Needs adjustment before then, you are correct, it should be considered part of the PDI by the dealer & their customer.
I'll ask them to check the cable.
I bought my KLR Brand new in July. I have never had any trouble starting it at all. Not even the very first time I started it at the dealership.
I did have a minor problem; a coolant lead caused by a loose coolant line clamp. I could have fixed it easily my self, but bugger that, the thing had only done one thousand Kilometers! That means any problem is the dealer's problem, or Kawasaki's problem. I took it back to the dealer and had them fix it.
I would have demanded they fix any problem in the first couple of thousand kilometers.
I advise you to fix nothing, adjust nothing and demand the dealer take care of their problem.
I wish you all the luck in the world
No worries, I'm not giving up, I want a working motorcycle.