Homemade magnetic drain plug... - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-22-2009, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Homemade magnetic drain plug...

I honestly can't remember if I ever asked this question. Been thinking about it forever. First time I changed my oil, I stripped the drain. It has been tapped out and there is now a big old bolt in there. Works fine. But it is just a bolt that my bro in law and I sawed in half...not a "drain plug" and it is an odd size that I can't order a magnetic plug to match. Every time I change my oil, I contemplate using some JB quick weld and attaching a round rare earth magnet.

The magnets I have are STRONG. So they would stick naturally. Plus the JB weld...seems like it would work. But I'm super paranoid that the magnet could come off. If I had a drill press, I would recess it, but I don't.

Thoughts on this? Is it worth the risk or should I just keep changing my oil frequently? I know the heat would be an issue with the magnet, and I don't know if it is worth the trouble. Sorry if I asked before...I searched and couldn't find it. And tomm is oil change day.

Paper...you dig on magnets, right? What do you think?




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

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Last edited by Lockjaw; 08-22-2009 at 03:12 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 08-22-2009, 03:49 PM
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JB weld will eventually give under heat and oil, best to braze it on, use dissimilar rod.
post #3 of 12 Old 08-22-2009, 05:00 PM
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Brazing temperatures will probably exceed the Curie temperature of the magnet, demagentizing it. It might even cause it to fall apart.

There are two part epoxies (and one part heat curing epoxies) that would be suitable, though planting the magnet in a hole would be best.

I would be leery of using a rare earth magnet all by itself, though it should work if the mating surface is very smooth.

Given the frequency at which the plug could/would be inspected (every 2000 miles or every couple of months) I wouldn't be too concerned about using JB Weld. It is supposed to be impermeable to gas and oil once it is set and can be used to repair gas tanks. I used it to patch a pinhole in a sports car gas tank many years ago - it's holding up fine. It's also good to about 500F.

Tom

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-22-2009 at 05:35 PM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 08-22-2009, 05:51 PM
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Thanks TOM

Tom,
thanks for the info, I'm putting it next to my tools so I remember
thanks,John
ps: where would I find a heat activated epoxy?
post #5 of 12 Old 08-22-2009, 06:06 PM
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Lackjaw

you have the right idea as fare as temp JB Kwik has a 300 digree temp rating the marine and regular has a 500 digree rating Kwik will set in 4 min cure in 4 hr The others will take over night sand both pcs and clean with alcohol. I make some mag plug just the way you are thinking that go in a tranfer case for mining trucks you should be just fine doing so.

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Last edited by maprimm; 08-23-2009 at 08:25 AM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-22-2009, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Tom,
thanks for the info, I'm putting it next to my tools so I remember
thanks,John
ps: where would I find a heat activated epoxy?
John -

Tough question. Look for something like 3m Scotch Weld 1469.

You might find it at Graingers or a good local industrial supply house. I think you can find a MSDS and some technical info if you Google it.

We used a similar product years ago as a thermo setting potting compound for sealing up landing gear switches on the old F-5 aircraft.

Tom

WOOHOOO! Belay that advice. I looked up the 1469 stuff. It's only about $3,300 for a 5 gallon bucket. I'll look around some of my materials stuff and if I can come up with a reasonable thermosetting epoxy I'lI post it up.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-22-2009 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Bad
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post #7 of 12 Old 08-22-2009, 11:47 PM
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John -

Sorry, I'm a dumbass.

There don't appear to be any heat cured epoxies that are commercially available, plus they are all haz mat and ship on dry ice.

My bad...

Tom
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post #8 of 12 Old 08-23-2009, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys.




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

PPMC #1.
Soon, we ride.

AKA JD Mader or you can call me "Dan" just not early for dinner.

Click my handle for a link to my homepage/blog...which has nothing to do with MCs. Free literature and music! Viva La Revolucion!
-------------------
2008 KLR 650
RIP DM - Soon, we ride.
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-23-2009, 04:25 PM
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I read a post on a go kart sight years ago about using Neodymium-Iron-Boron Grade 37 Magnets from McMaster-Carr (part number 58605K31) and JB Welding them to the plug. I have since found magnets on Ebay far cheaper than McMaster-Carr (I dont know if they are Neodymium-Iron-Boron Grade 37 or not they didnt get that technical on ebay but they look the same and are very strong) and have made magnetic plugs for all my cars, trucks, lawn mower, kids kart and mini bikes, log splitter, rear differentials, transfer cases and even put one on the dip stick in the hydrolic oil resavor of my wood spliter. It is amazing how much crap those little things pick up. The magnets are only 1/4 in round but very strong. I havnt had any problems with any of them coming loose and they are allways covered with stuff.

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post #10 of 12 Old 11-30-2011, 07:53 PM
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Doesn't the magnet stick to the bolt due to the magnetism? I would be more worried about the expoy, if it comes apart, running through the oil.

Ron
09 KLR
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