2009 KLR650 Rear hub parts - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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  • 1 Post By GoMotor
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-09-2018, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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2009 KLR650 Rear hub parts

Hi,

I'm looking to get a little help verifying a few part(s) I've broken or am missing. This is a 2009 KLR650.

To preface, I was riding one night and I started hearing a grinding noise, at first I thought it was the chain but I tried adjusting it and still got noise. So I moved on and took the rear wheel off, when I did that a few things fell out, you can see most of what I've got in the image link below.

I recovered 9 ball bearings that just fell out when I pulled the axel. A couple metal pieces that appear to be parts of a broken bearing. And a bunch of small metal shavings.


Here is the hub diagram with part numbers:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ka...50e9f/rear-hub

I've also added pictures to an album here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NfCb8sDKMeZosFnf9


In the last picture you can kind of see a ring of wear on the inside of the swingarm, which may help someone identify how this happened in the first place.


Here's what I think happened:

The collar, part 92143B, broke or was missing when I bought the bike ~2 months ago.
The extra stress caused the ball bearing, part 601A, in the sprocket assembly to break.

This is my first time taking the hub apart, so I'm not exactly sure what it looks like in good condition. If someone can help by verifying which parts I need to order I would really appreciate it.

I believe these are the parts I need:
92143B, 601A, 92033, and 42036

Thanks for looking!!

Last edited by fearlesspixel; 07-09-2018 at 02:12 PM. Reason: fixed photos url
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-09-2018, 04:01 PM
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It looks like you have identified all the damaged or missing parts.

The third photo of the sprocket and its carrier seems to show chunks out of the snap ring holding the bearing in. Am I seeing it right?

The bearing in the sprocket carrier seems to be the first to fail, but I would check the condition of the other two bearings on the axle.
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Last edited by GoMotor; 07-09-2018 at 04:09 PM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 07-09-2018, 04:05 PM
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Looks right assuming the rest is in good enough shape to re-use; personally I'd replace all the bearings with sealed bearings while I was in there (avoid chinese cheapies). If you change them out, install bearing 601B first, then put in the snap ring, install spacer 92143 then bearing 601.

You are VERY lucky;



Dave
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-09-2018, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
The third photo of the sprocket and its carrier seems to show chunks out of the snap ring holding the bearing in. Am I seeing it right?

.
I think those are just the factory reliefs in the snap ring 92033

Dave
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-09-2018, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies!

I didn't realize it until you said something, but you are correct - the snap ring was still holding the outer part of the bearing inside the sprocket carrier. The ring seems to be in good condition.

I just popped the ring out and tried beating the bearing a bit but it's not coming out. Am I going to need any special tools to replace that bearing or should I just keep at it? The other bearings appear to be okay but I may replace them with sealed bearings like DPelletier suggested (good suggestion!)

If I replace all 3 bearings I'll probably have to take the parts to a shop anyway I guess.

I saw the picture of that ruined swingarm this morning, that's crazy!


Thanks again!
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-09-2018, 05:00 PM
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you can use the appropriate sized socket and then a vice or press to remove/install bearings. .....I've done hundreds of them with a socket, drift and hammer; impact sockets last longer! If you're new to bearing replacement just remember to always drive a new bearing on the friction side only (i.e. never hammer/press a bearing into a bore by pushing on the inner race) and always make sure the bearing is straight in the bore.

Cheers,
Dave
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-09-2018, 05:35 PM
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You should read this and then judge for yourself if you want to spring for the tools to do the job.
Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement (Front, too)
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-09-2018, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fearlesspixel View Post
Thanks for the replies!

I didn't realize it until you said something, but you are correct - the snap ring was still holding the outer part of the bearing inside the sprocket carrier. The ring seems to be in good condition.

I just popped the ring out and tried beating the bearing a bit but it's not coming out. Am I going to need any special tools to replace that bearing or should I just keep at it?............................

If I replace all 3 bearings I'll probably have to take the parts to a shop anyway I guess.
.................
I assume you are using a cold chisel from inside the carrier out into the grove in the remaining race. That should work. You need to work around the race chiseling as you go. Some heat from a propane or acetylene torch on the outside of the bearing pocket could help a lot.

If you need to get fancy, you can heat the pocket to make it expand and then put some ice water on the race with a small artist's paint brush to make it contract. Then as my old buddy Delbert used to say "Don't force it! Use a bigger hammer!".

If you can get that tough one out the others will be child's play for you. No need to take it to a shop.
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Last edited by GoMotor; 07-09-2018 at 08:40 PM.
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post #9 of 9 Old 07-09-2018, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
I assume you are using a cold chisel from inside the carrier out into the grove in the remaining race. That should work. You need to work around the race chiseling as you go. Some heat from a propane or acetylene torch on the outside of the bearing pocket could help a lot.

If you need to get fancy, you can heat the pocket to make it expand and then put some ice water on the race with a small artist's paint brush to make it contract. Then as my old buddy Delbert used to say "Don't force it! Use a bigger hammer!".
An ice cube touched directly onto the steel outer bearing race (after the aluminum hub has been heated) might be more effective than a paint brush dipped into ice water.

There is also a product made by CRC chemicals called "Freeze-Off" which might chill the steel race enough to allow to be tapped out, with-out heating the hub.
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