This may ne a stupid question, but... - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #11 of 21 Old 07-10-2018, 01:44 PM
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Just for confirmation, both of mine get a little red while idling. It is normal. Don't worry about it.
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post #12 of 21 Old 07-10-2018, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by PaddyD View Post
I'd buy a Clymers, but they say they don't have one for the 2018 model and have no plans of publishing on in the near future.
Then . . . you COULD buy a genuine Kawasaki KLR650 Service Manual, PaddyD!

Otherwise, ANY Service Manual, Clymer's or otherwise, for KLR650s between 2008 and 2018 inclusive, will tell you all you need to know, believe it or not. Reason: Not that much was changed in the ten years mentioned.

Again, to be sure you get the absolutest latest information, the Kawasaki manuals are your surest bet.
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post #13 of 21 Old 07-10-2018, 04:53 PM
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I'd just get the Clymers for any Gen2 and call it a day. Before Paul has a chance to chime in, there are some mistakes in the manual so use 55 inch lbs on the valve cover bolts and 15 -17 ft lbs on the oil drain plug. 18 ft lbs on the footpeg bolts



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post #14 of 21 Old 07-10-2018, 07:02 PM
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I'll suggest a Service Manual for 2012 or newer, because there were some changes. Either OEM or Clymer.

Choke cable adjuster is Under the Fuel Tank on a Gen 2!! Dang them!! But they are usually set with more slack than necessary from the factory, which leads to hard starting in cooler temps.
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post #15 of 21 Old 07-10-2018, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by patroy75 View Post
I may have to go for a spin tonight and see this. You know in three months, in 95 plus heat, in traffic, I have yet to hear my fan turn on. I have yet to get anywhere near the red mark.
Ive had my KLR since late 2009, and have never heard the fan. I'm assuming it runs, since I don't overheat. But Ive never heard it...or any of my bikes' fans, for that matter.
But then, I wear ear plugs. Maybe that's why, LOL.

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"Chet from Chattanooga"
2009 KLR, blue
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post #16 of 21 Old 07-11-2018, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know what the header pipes are made of on the later models? This looks to be a gold color.. Is it stainless? Has anyone here wrapped their pipe with the header wrap? Would this be of any benefit? I noticed the pipe runs VERY close to the plastic airbox and I'm going to wrap that portion for sure, but was wondering about wrapping the entire pipe from cylinder to muffler.
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post #17 of 21 Old 07-11-2018, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaddyD View Post
Does anyone know what the header pipes are made of on the later models? This looks to be a gold color.. Is it stainless? Has anyone here wrapped their pipe with the header wrap? Would this be of any benefit? I noticed the pipe runs VERY close to the plastic airbox and I'm going to wrap that portion for sure, but was wondering about wrapping the entire pipe from cylinder to muffler.
I have not had problems with heat melting the air box, but I did wrap the section the pipe under the carburetor float bowl. On hot days in Houston in very slow rush hour traffic with lots of idling I found that the bike would sputter and bog if I gave it much gas when the traffic cleared and picked up speed. This would happen for about a half mile or so and slowly got better. I experienced the exact same thing due to lane closures with lots of idling on a hot day on the Mississippi River bridge at Memphis .

I think the hot pipe under the float bowl while idling got the gas in the bowl very hot and as it passed though the low pressure point in the jet it boiled and restricted the flow through the jet. As cooler gas from the tank entered the the float bowl the problem slowly dissipated.

The wrap seems to have solved the problem, but it is hard to be sure because I try very hard to stay out of rush hour traffic. I have not experienced the same problem for several years now.
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post #18 of 21 Old 07-11-2018, 09:42 AM
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Gen2 pipe is stainless. Some have wrapped their headers for a variety of reasons (missing the heat guard, protection of the airbox and coolant overflow reservoir, prevention of boiling the carb). People that have melted their airbox have had exhaust leaks AFAIK. There is a better heat sheild for the airbox that some have made:



I'm going to make a couple of these......but they are a "belt and suspenders" solution IMO. I'll do it just because and also because I own a sheet metal shop so it would be very easy for me.


Cheers,
Dave
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post #19 of 21 Old 07-11-2018, 12:34 PM
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Heat won't melt the airbox. There is a heat shield that prevents that.

What melts the airbox is the failure of the joint gasket, which sends a jet of hot exhaust onto an unprotected portion of the airbox. Then it melts.

Heat will melt the nipple off of the coolant overflow tank. This is known as "Melted Nipple Syndrome". You can go overboard building a heat shield for the coolant tank or do it elegantly, as @Bluehighways did.
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post #20 of 21 Old 07-12-2018, 12:21 AM
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Since I got called out on this . . . . Tom has a nice Web Site you might want to visit as well.

Last edited by Bluehighways; 08-31-2018 at 01:18 AM.
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