Need help with unintentional custom break pedal adjustment... - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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Need help with unintentional custom break pedal adjustment...

So just recently bought my KLR and was quite a bit impatient to test my skills off road, instead of waiting for some crash guards and other protection.. Well, to make a short story shorter: I laid it down and the whole brake pedal bent back up against the foot peg, I was able to bend it back a little bit so I could at least put the peg down. I was wondering if you all had a good place to get a stiffer, more durable brake pedal? Or is it better for it to be more maliable so as to not break other things? Also busted up my fairing pretty good, any advice on that (i know crash guards:/)? Thanks for the help!
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post #2 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 09:47 AM
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People will tell you that it's better to bend the brake lever (or shift lever, etc.) than to have a stronger one that may not bend but they'd be wrong IMO. The cheezy Gen2 brake lever was changed from a better forged aluminum lever for cost reasons only. I spent many, many hours straightening cheapo OEM steel levers on various XR's, DR's, CRF's etc.

I'm not sure if you could retrofit the better Gen1 lever but if you take your lever off and put it in a vise, you should be able to straighten it to an acceptable level.....may not look as pretty but it will work.

Cheers,
Dave
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post #3 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 09:51 AM
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And yes, if you're going to be riding your bike offroad you need some "stuff";

- a real skidplate is highly recommended; JNS or Ricochet are my suggestions

- crash bars

- hand guards and, while your at it, a decent set of aluminum bars are also a good idea. I use Renthal RC-Hi's

Cheers,
Dave
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post #4 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave!

I ended up just using some pliers and wrenches to bend it back to a comfortable, more acceptable position. Do you have any suggestions on what aftermarket brake lever I should get? Or should I just try to find the Gen 1?

I definitely won't be doing any off-roading until I get some protection for the bike.

'Preciate it!
-Devon
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post #5 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 12:33 PM
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I very much doubt there is any aftermarket lever available. You can try the Gen1 lever but I think the pivot setup is different so there may be some modifications required.

Dave
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post #6 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 12:34 PM
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Gen 1 brake pedal Will Not fit a (late model) Gen 2. Totally different in the pivot portion.

Straighten your wounded pedal, install a quality skid-plate, install a "Brake Snake" lever saver cable between the skid-plate & the brake lever. Do the same on the gear pedal.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 07-11-2018 at 06:09 PM. Reason: (late model) Gen 2
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post #7 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Gen 1 brake pedal Will Not fit a Gen 2. Totally different in the pivot portion.

Straighten your wounded pedal, install a quality skid-plate, install a "Brake Snake" lever saver cable between the skid-plate & the brake lever. Do the same on the gear pedal.
That is a great sugestion, will do with the new skid plate. Thanks!
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post #8 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 02:36 PM
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The Gen 1 brake pedal was unchanged from '87 to '07 and is a great way to lower the pedal (to match lowered footpegs) on a Gen 2 up to 2010.


Conversely, if the pedal on a Gen 1 is too low, then installing a Gen 2 lever can cure that. Much better than installing a slippery carriage bolt through the pedal.

I haven't had a chance to look at an '11 or later set-up and I wonder if the method of attachment is just simpler but the boss on the frame is near the same diameter as the old 43004-1120 part. If that is the case then it might be possible to install an earlier pedal if the splines can be easily drilled out and the return spring accommodated.

I feels a useless knowledge project a comin' on.
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post #9 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 03:16 PM
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I think you should Tom! (easy for me to donate YOUR time to satisfy MY interest! LOL)

Not a Gen2 guy so just so I am straight; the 2011 was the first year for the cheapy steel lever and welded frame mount fitting correct? So the Gen2 2008 - 2010 use the same frame mount and shaft as the Gen1's but a different lever, right? ......the early Gen2 lever is aluminum as well, correct? - of course it would require the same mounting mods that a Gen1 lever would...

Thanks,
Dave
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post #10 of 24 Old 07-11-2018, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
I think you should Tom! (easy for me to donate YOUR time to satisfy MY interest! LOL)...
I've been thinking on doing this ever since candubrain had his issues with the brake lever.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
...Not a Gen2 guy so just so I am straight; the 2011 was the first year for the cheapy steel lever and welded frame mount fitting correct?..
Yes, 2011.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
...So the Gen2 2008 - 2010 use the same frame mount and shaft as the Gen1's but a different lever, right?...
Yes, they do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
...the early Gen2 lever is aluminum as well, correct?...
Yes, it is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
... of course it would require the same mounting mods that a Gen1 lever would...
Yes. The Gen 1 and Gen 2 levers seem to be identical aft of just before the splined pinch hole. Forward they are a different shape with the pedal heights being different.

I'm just guessing until I get parts in my hand, but the mod should be a) making a boss to wrap the spring around, b) making a short bushing to make up for the thicker lever, c) modifying the spring for engagement with the lever (or the lever for engagement with the spring), d) opening up the hole to fit on the frame boss.

What could go wrong?
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 07-11-2018 at 04:37 PM.
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