So…
2003 KLR plastics, tank, and a few other pieces will be TBL’d with Rustoleum’s rattle can Truck Bed Liner. I know TBL to be pretty bulletproof, but I’ve also heard that fuel will permeate and get under the surface and eventually take it off.

So I was thinking to treat the TBL like any other paint and do a matte finish clear coat over the fuel tank (only) to avoid the eventual fuel spill stain that WILL occur (no, no now, I’m neat around my Fuel... it’s just an eventuality!).

I can’t find much on the www (save for a few commentaries that I was not confident in) and I’m probably going to reach out to Rustoleum as well (their CS is pretty decent and you do get a more detailed email response than you might find on FAQs or anything like that).

BTW, the plastics already have a solid paint surface so to TBL over the top of that is not an issue.

So, what do you think, can I MatteClearCoat over TBL?

Thx!

Q sent to Rustoleum... I'll post response here when I get it (usually a day or so)... still eager to hear ya'll's thoughts though!

My guess is that it won't work. Also the "fuel permeating through the tank" is a problem with plastic tanks, not metal ones.

Cheers,
Dave

Thx DP...

‘Just got RustoleumResponse:
Resp1 - Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support.
Unfortunately, we do not have a matte clear product that is resistant to gasoline. We do offer a matte clear in our Stops Rust line of products; however gasoline may lessen the surface life of the product.
If you have any additional questions or concerns please do not hesitate to contact us.
Sincerely,
Jenn

Resp2 to “can I put anything over TBL?“ –We do not recommend top coating the Truck Bed Coating due to the top coat not being able to withstand the same environments that the truck bed coating with withstand. The top coat would peel off while the truck bed coating stays in tact.
If you have any additional questions or concerns please do not hesitate to contact us.
Regards,
Gavin

So, there you go. I’ll still protect with a clearcoat the lettering and then I’ll put TBL over the whole thing. Hopefully at least that way I’ll get some additional protection to the lettering and then I’ll choose not to worry about the TBL coating. I might also investigate that “2K“ rattle can paint (about $30 a can) to see if it is impervious to Fuel.

DP, had that experience with my YZ tank when I tried to put on new Plastic/Decals (AZ Sun don’t-cha-know) on it with just decals on the tank… weeellll...
Swing and a Miss!
I always wondered how the factory was able to get decals to stick to a tank???

CORRECTION:
I always wondered how the factory got decals to stick to a PLASTIC Tank!

well they avoided decals on the tank for the most part, especially after water cooling became mainstream; they just put the decals on the shrouds. But yes, there were some (mostly early 1980's) bikes that had factory decals on plastic tanks; my 1983 CR80R and a host of XR's come to mind.

Dave

TBL is not as tough as you may think. Yes, it will take a pounding in the bed of a truck and not peel, chip or crack, but it scratches just as easily as paint.

I know more than a couple guys that painted Jeeps and other 4wd pickups with it. Trail rigs that they thought they were making bullet proof. They look more scratched up than the normal painted trucks do. Experiment with a sample before you dive in.

Oh...and it is HEAVY.

Yeh, and further, TBL is hard(er) to clean because it sorta 'holds' dirt. And it is NOT impervious to Fuel.

The Bike was sold to me TBL'd, but very sloppily done (can you say OVERSCHPRAY!!!) and in need of touch up as well. As I got into the BodyPanels I got an idea for a (simple) graphic on the Tank. As I REALLY got into it, I thought I'd 'mask' "KLR", TBL over that, and peel off the letters to show a SemiGloss background in "KLR". My concern now is 'protecting' the Tank Paint. I never expected TBL to save me from brush marks or scrapes any better than paint. I know TBL will 'hide' blemishes/marks/scuffs better as the surface finished is so rough (makes 'OrangePeel' look smoooov!).

Effectively I had a Calico Kaw when I first done brung her home in that the undersides were black, green and blue (parts from at least 2 other bikes in addition to my OEM pieces... i.e. shrouds). I replaced a chopped Acerbis SuperMoto fender (way-too-short) for a stock long-a$$ one, had to get a RearFender/UnderFender as there was none on this bike, and opted for a new (used) Fuel Tank as the stock 'Green' one was some-KINA-FUGLY (and had a coupla healthy dings)!!! So, leftovers from DipStickPreviousOwners, a hodge-podge of different parts from different bikes and TBL on everything (including overspray on windshield, frame, rim, SwingArm, etc).

Yeh, thought longNhard about it... and discover there's NEVER a perfect solution for anything other than accepting that I'm committed now (most-a the work done, just final coats upcoming).

Thanks for the advice though!

Once read about a Dragster Team way-back-when who did NOT paint their car to save like some 12#s of paint weight (can't remember exact weight)... TOO FUNNY!
I will say that the used tank I bought that I was cleaning (down to metal) had me working on that FOR DAAAAAYS!!!! THEY HAD SOOOOO MUCH PAINT ON THERE (in addition to OEM!!!)... I was using Aircraft Remover by the Gallon almost!!!

Again, hoping that one-a these $30/can '2K' paints will lend a surface protection to the Tank (especially the Semi-Gloss graphic) that is at least 'more impervious' to fuel than 'not at all impervious to fuel' as is Rustoleum, etc.

More later...