Oil in my carb???!!! - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #11 of 20 Old 06-19-2019, 05:05 PM
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In the process of taking the cab apart and re-assembling it you didn't misplace the jet-needle, did you?

It is the silver piece that goes first in the main jet bore, followed by the needle jet holder, followed by the main jet. The tip of it should be visible in the venturi.

It is also called a collar.



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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 06-19-2019 at 05:12 PM.
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post #12 of 20 Old 06-21-2019, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy

Hi guys,

Apologies for radio silence. I pulled the rip cord and got myself towed home. Currently working on the bike indoors! With lights! And a table!

Unfortunately, still no joy.

I've gone through the carburetor, soup to nuts, twice more. Blasted all passages with cleaner. Flossed most passages and jets with thin copper wire. Overnight soak in carb cleaner for everything metal. Compressed air through everything. And scraped off some dry accumulated gunk from the metal fins on the carb slide diaphragm.

Symptoms unchanged. High RPMs make the bike sputter in any gear. Issue seems to get worse the longer the bike runs.

For background, the main jet is a 148. Fuel screwed backed out 1.75 turns. No 22 cent mod or KLX needle. CA emissions plumbing has been removed. No in-line fuel filter.

I'm buying a new rubber component for the diaphragm, courtesy of Paul's Tucker Rocky recommendation.

But in the meantime, is there any way to validate the belief that it's carb related? Any way to rule out electrical as a culprit? Would a mechanic have diagnostic abilities to help verify this?

For what it's worth, I've chased a minor version of this problem around the bike for the entirety of the trip; A mild bogging under load when air temperature and engine were both hot, and RPMs exceeded 4k. The problem was sporadic, and would disappear for months at a time, making it hard to diagnose. A new ignition coil seemed to help in Costa Rica one time. But when I swapped in another one in Mexico a few months ago, it didn't help Symptoms eased when I opened the choke while driving.

If you read all the way to this, you're a saint. Thanks
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post #13 of 20 Old 06-21-2019, 10:29 PM
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Poor performance mitigated by opening the "choke;" suggests fuel-lean running condition. As mentioned, can be caused by diaphragm air leak (insufficient vacuum available to raise the slide and needle).

Yet, looks like you've done everything responsibly possible with the carburetor . . . did you watch the Souperdoo videos (used to be under, "Carb Overhaul" thread on this website; maybe still is).

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #14 of 20 Old 06-22-2019, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Talking Found It!!!!!

Guys, thank you all so much for sticking with this thread. And for hammering "lean condition" into my head. I was almost ready to go bouncing around on electrical.

So, after waking up and going through my morning routine (pull carb, clean carb, reinstall carb, fail a test ride) I decided to zero in on the air system. Fuel flows, but does air really blow?

Long story short, I pulled off the rear sub-frame in the hopes of removing the airbox completely and searching for a family of sparrows inside.

Sparrows, no.

Gaping hole where my exhaust has melted through the bottom corner of the airbox, yes!

I'm not sure how to attach a photo to a post here, or if i'm allowed to. But here's a link if anyone's interested. I presume the box is toast and must be replaced. If anyone has any idea how my exhaust came to inflict such a wound, I'd love to hear it and avoid a repeat. Man oh man does it feel good to finally get an answer!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/kcc2KbiZJCpBCKWF9

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 06-23-2019 at 01:20 AM. Reason: Fix photo link
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post #15 of 20 Old 06-22-2019, 10:32 PM
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I sealed an eye shaped/sized hole in the lower front corner of my clean side air box in about 1990 with RTV silicone.
Caused by a Failed exhaust pipe mid-gasket!

But the dust inhalation damage eventually took its toll on the piston & rings and the oil consumption got to 400 miles per pint, requiring a proper top end rebuild in about 2003 & another 20,000 miles.

Here is your proper air box protection, https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20th...dog-airbox-too

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #16 of 20 Old 06-23-2019, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Paul! RTV patch is drying now, built over steel window screen. New aluminum heat shield ready to go in between the box and the pipe tomorrow.

I was planning on doing a 685 kit this winter. Hopefully it lasts til then!

Thanks so much to everyone for all the help! I'll update once it's been test driven.
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post #17 of 20 Old 06-25-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Still Broke

I posted this last night, but for some reason, it didn't seem to go public. Apologies if you're seeing this twice.

Bad news

After patching the quarter sized hole in the air box, and adding a new aluminum heat shield, my symptoms are better, but still very noticeable.

Takes 2-3 miles of driving before symptoms pop up. Struggling and lurching on inclines and during rapid acceleration. Once the symptoms start, they become progressively more pronounced. At their worst, I can give the bike full throttle and get almost zero new power. Engine feels like it's not firing at all.

I've got a list of things to try moving forward (new diaphragm, new jets, gravity fed petcock, new ignition coil, new mounting boot between carb and engine).

But I'm desperate for some advice on diagnosing what's causing this. Any ideas on further tests I can run, instead of just replacing parts?

One thing I notice is that when I cover the snorkel intake with my hand, the RPMs start to creep up. To me this says that richening the mixture increases RPM, but does that mean I'm lean to begin with?
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post #18 of 20 Old 06-25-2019, 03:20 PM
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Where is your float bowl air Vent Hose routed? And is it fully open? I like having the single vent hose running up & over the air duct to the RH side, then over the top of the frame spine to the LH side and hanging along the shock spring.

I once encountered one that the squared tip was resting on TOP of the shock spring adjuster, partially blocking air flow. Cut the tip at an angle, solved the issue. Wow that was over 9 years ago, already.

pdwestman
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post #19 of 20 Old 07-02-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Post Still at it

Hi everybody,

Still chasing this demon around inside the bike, but here's the latest...

VALVES ARE SO TIGHT
Yesterday, I checked valve clearances... SUPER TIGHT!
- Intake clearances were 0.10mm and 0.08mm (spec is 0.10-0.20mm)
- Exhaust clearances were <0.04mm!!! (spec is 0.15-0.25mm)

Would this correlate with my symptoms? I've ordered new shims, and will obviously get this back into spec asap.


EXHAUST
I pulled the exhaust pipe, planning to replace the exhaust gasket (#11060-1108). This went in new in Honduras not so long ago. Shocker. There was nothing left of it. Literally nothing. I thought it must have crushed into place so well that I was missing it, but after crawling around under the bike and scratching at it for a while, I'm convinced that it's just not there. I assembled this myself in Honduras, and I know I put one in. It was the standard OEM copper-looking one. Do these disintegrate?? Both nuts were tight and the exhaust pipe didn't have any wiggle until I loosened the nuts to remove it. What the heck?

I also noticed a lot of very dry, jet black build up inside the exhaust pipe, and inside the engine where the two connect. Not enough to restrict airflow, but impossible not to notice. Does this tell me anything obvious? And should I be trying to clean this stuff out? Swab a finger around inside the engine or exhaust pipe and it comes out black!


FUEL LINE NOT FULL?
I've suspected that the vacuum activated petcock in the tank might be getting stuck, restricting gas flow to the carb. To test this, I removed the plumbing inside the petcock to make it a direct gravity feed. Symptoms persisted. One thing I noticed thanks to a new, clear rubber fuel hose, is that gas does not ever fill the hose completely. Is this normal? There is no in-line filter involved, just a straight 1/4 inch tube from gravity-fed petcock down into the carb. Gasoline fills the bottom few inches of the hose right before the carb, but never the upper section. What to make of this? Something to pursue here?

FLOAT BOWL VENTS
Paul, with regards to the float bowl vent line, I'm pretty sure that's not the culprit. I've routed it every which way at various times, or pulled it off completely. No change. Although I love the trick of cutting vent hoses at an angle to prevent then sucking onto things. Nice!

If anyone read this far, you're probably a crazy person. And I can't thank you enough. Let me know if you've got any advice.
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post #20 of 20 Old 07-02-2019, 02:22 PM
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Make sure you checked the valve clearances between compression and power strokes; clearances considerably different there than from between exhaust and intake strokes. (Each at piston TDC.)

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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