Good oils for KLR 650 - Page 3 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #21 of 49 Old 04-11-2020, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/L View Post
...................................
As stated above, if you use JASO MA rated oil in your KLR, as specified in the owners manual (viscosity and LEVEL), you can be assured you will not experience any oil related issues.

Also note there is JASO MB, which is for non-motorcycle engines.
I'll have to say, not necessarily true on both of those statements R/L.

As I suggested earlier, using a JASO MA / MA2 / MA3 approved oil should reduce the possibility of starter clutch & drive clutch slippage.
Other possible oil related issues could still happen.

JASO MB rated oils can and are being manufactured specifically for use in Separated Engine motorcycles.
Like Harley Davidson Big Twins and even the larger Honda CRF motocrossers.

Lucas Oil, High-Performance Synthetic 4T Motorcycle Oil with MOLY, in 10W40 API SJ / JASO MB is one such example.
Note printed in Tucker catalog, "Note: Engine oil only. Not suitable for wet clutch applications."

I recon that means it is also intended for use in Ducati engines and transmissions with DRY Clutches.
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post #22 of 49 Old 04-11-2020, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by terry_g View Post
I have always ran the less expensive oils and changed them too often.
That is also part of the reason that I keep encouraging participation in the Oil Analysis Thread.

If our chosen oil is performing GREAT or even Better Than Average, shouldn't we do our part to be a little more "ecology friendly" and run it longer?
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post #23 of 49 Old 04-11-2020, 10:52 AM
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post #24 of 49 Old 04-11-2020, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Norton 850 View Post
But sometimes it's difficult to know if a particular oil does not meet JASO or if it meets JASO but is not "certified".
True enough!

Generation 1 Owner's Manual says:

Quote:
API SE, SF, or SG
API SH, SJ, or SL with JASO MA
Unclear to me whether the text mandates JASO MA qualification to all the API service codes mentioned, or to SL only, or to all on the second line only (as previously posted).

JASO MA allows the dreaded, "Friction Modifiers" in oils tested, but . . . the lubricant must meet the test standards with all additives (including friction modifiers) present.

Does anyone know of any KLR clutch failures traceable to non-JASO certified oil use?

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), [I]Hombre[/I]
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post #25 of 49 Old 04-11-2020, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
True enough!

Generation 1 Owner's Manual says:

Unclear to me whether the text mandates JASO MA qualification to all the API service codes mentioned, or to SL only, or to all on the second line only (as previously posted).

JASO MA allows the dreaded, "Friction Modifiers" in oils tested, but . . . the lubricant must meet the test standards with all additives (including friction modifiers) present.

Does anyone know of any KLR clutch failures traceable to non-JASO certified oil use?
As I understand it,

The API SG, SF, SE or even lower grades of oils in our recommended Viscosities will never have enough of the newer, slipperier additives to even need to be tested to meet the JASO MA motorcycle compatibility standards.

The API SH, SJ, SL and newer higher graded oils which could contain too much of the newer, slipperier additives need to be tested to confirm & certified to JASO MA, MA2, MA3 standards to ensure compatibility with motorcycle wet starter clutches & drive clutches.
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post #26 of 49 Old 04-11-2020, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post

The API SH, SJ, SL and newer higher graded oils which could contain too much of the newer, slipperier additives need to be tested to confirm & certified to JASO MA, MA2, MA3 standards to ensure compatibility with motorcycle wet starter clutches & drive clutches.
I doubt that "slippery" oil would have a detrimental effect on a sprague clutch. What would be the failure mechanism?

Jason
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post #27 of 49 Old 04-11-2020, 07:32 PM
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Do you gentlemen think that we have answered the OP's question satisfactorily yet ? Maybe we can provide more clarity and/or documentation ?
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post #28 of 49 Old 04-11-2020, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MrZappo View Post
Do you gentlemen think that we have answered the OP's question satisfactorily yet ? Maybe we can provide more clarity and/or documentation ?
The original question by Glasair: Does anyone have a favorite oil? And if so, why do you think it's good? I'm using Quaker State Ultimate Durability 10w-30 full synthetic. I chose this oil because it's full synthetic and it has a high pressure rating of over 100,000 psi.


This question is a bit like: what is your favorite potato salad?

But seriously, as long as you are using one of the oils specified in the Owner's Manual you will be fine. But also take into account the ambient temperature and make sure that the oil viscosity is within that specified in the Manual. Lastly, the oil works pretty hard in this application. For instance, it rarely gets up to the proper temperature to boil off the accumulated moisture and it gets heavily sheared in the gear box. So you should consider frequent oil changes unless you can substantiate longer change intervals via analysis.

As Tom pointed out, Nooil is the worst lubricant, anything else is phenomenally better. The somewhat sarcastic message here is that keeping the engine full of oil is far more critical than the brand.

Jason
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Last edited by Norton 850; 04-11-2020 at 08:35 PM. Reason: grammar
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post #29 of 49 Old 04-13-2020, 11:41 AM
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I'll just leave this here......

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-c...Aug-17-ENG.pdf


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post #30 of 49 Old 04-15-2020, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glasair View Post
Does anyone have a favorite oil? And if so, why do you think it's good? I'm using Quaker State Ultimate Durability 10w-30 full synthetic. I chose this oil because it's full synthetic and it has a high pressure rating of over 100,000 psi.
Why? I mean, really....WHY?

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