2009 break-in valve adjustment find - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 10-26-2010, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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2009 break-in valve adjustment find

Hello all!
Just though I would give a little insight to what I discovered.
After reading many threads about the break-in valve adjustments, I decided to do my 2009 with 550 miles on it. I did not want to deal with the local shop, so I dove in feet first. Anyway these are the measurements I found:
Left exhaust- .007 in Right exhaust- .008 in
Left intake- .004 in Right intake- .006 in
I am glad I took the time to do it (actually I am in the process, waiting on shims). I am able to reuse two shims and order two. Just thought I would let you know in case you are trying to decide on your new bike.
Also, while it is parked and idle, I changed the drive sprocket to 16T, and just recieved the Thermo-bob fix, and adjusted the pilot screw. I will finish the
2 cent fix a little later.
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post #2 of 13 Old 10-26-2010, 09:14 AM
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The dealer would have measured those and said they were within spec and they are. Not the good side of the spec on that left intake but still within the specs Kawasaki laid out. So likely thing is they would have buttoned it up and called it good. Besides they never have any shims in stock either so don't know how they actually do valve adjustments.

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post #3 of 13 Old 10-26-2010, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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I agree, that is if they popped the valve cover off in the first place! I generally work on everthing myself, just so I know what I got. I posted this because I was undecided whether or not it was worth doing at this time. Not saying everone should do it, but glad I did it!
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post #4 of 13 Old 10-26-2010, 02:46 PM
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My "09 is right at 600 miles and I'm about to check mine, also. Masterdog, did you find any good deals on shims?
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post #5 of 13 Old 10-26-2010, 02:49 PM
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This is one area where I'm thankful that I have the Honda. It has screw-type adjusters, so you don't ever need any shims. I don't even bother to check how far out the valves are other than "loose" or "tight". Just loosen the locknut, set the clearance, and tighten it up. I guess the disadvantage is that you have to adjust them more often, but at least it's only a 20-minute job regardless of how much adjusting has to be done.

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post #6 of 13 Old 10-26-2010, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by halloweenb View Post
My "09 is right at 600 miles and I'm about to check mine, also. Masterdog, did you find any good deals on shims?
In Jackson, you might call Capital Sports Center, the BMW dealer. The same 29mm shim is used on two valve K model BMW's as well as the BMW 650 singles. Ford also used the same shim on '95 and older Taurus SHO engines. Ford has better selection of thickness dimensions if you can find them.

Many BMW dealers will swap shims with you. Usually priced under 5 bucks if they do charge you for them.

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post #7 of 13 Old 10-26-2010, 07:02 PM
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Well my 08 is coming up on it's first scheduled adjustment at 24000 kms.It still starts right up and shows no difference in it's operation from when it was new.
It will be interesting to see where the clearences are at.
Not all bikes need valve shims regularily I own an FJR and a guy over on the FJR forum has 154900 miles or 249000 kms on the original factory installed shims.
Off topic but true all solid lifter new Subarus have no shims as no adjustments are needed for the life of the car.
Also off topic but interesting one of my favorite car motors of all time is the good old flat head Ford V-8 .It has solid lifters but no shims ,no adjustments called for ever .
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post #8 of 13 Old 10-26-2010, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered them from Rocky moutain atv/mc, I think around $5.99 plus shipping.
Probably not the cheapest, but not enough to break the bank!
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-27-2010, 06:20 AM
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I guess the disadvantage is that you have to adjust them more often, but at least it's only a 20-minute job regardless of how much adjusting has to be done.
You hit that one on the head, taking the good with the bad..

My Airhead BMW R80 is screw adjustment and I can adjust valves in 20 minutes, but they need to be checked every other oil change.. The BMW K bikes need to be checked at the 600 mile service, and at the 10K service, and then you can pretty much forget em' until 100K service.

While screw adjustment is fast and simple, it's required WAY more often than shim and bucket..

I had my valves checked on my KLR at 6K. They were within spec, but I had them adjusted to within + or - .001" dead center of spec..

Now at 21K, they're not very high on my priority list of something that needs service.

Shims aren't such a bad thing, afterall..
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-27-2010, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paper View Post

...

I had my valves checked on my KLR at 6K. They were within spec, but I had them adjusted to within + or - .001" dead center of spec..

Now at 21K, they're not very high on my priority list of something that needs service.

Shims aren't such a bad thing, afterall..

The KLR seems to be happiest with the valves at the loose end. Makes the valve train noiser though.

My valves are not moving much at all after 20 K miles.

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